Rochester 1 Barrel Carbs Problem....no squirt

Not a quote, just my memory. I wasn't going to get involved in this thread because a lot of members don't care for the "B", & I didn't want to get into a keyboard fight.
I get the leather pumps from salvaged cores, as well as the steel needle/seat ass'y . I keep the pumps in a bottle of neat's foot oil after dressing any flaw with emery board. Before installing I use a ball hone lubed with water in the barrel.
The early & late pump arm assy's interchange, but the later air horn must be used. Then, adjust the pump stroke by bending the link if needed.
I won't cover straightening air horns or fuel bowls - someone could get hurt.

 

To all , like all of us if I have something that is not working correctly I am too anal sometimes about fixing it , often throwing good $ after bad , because it “fits” or it is already bolt on . In my case this amplified because in Michigan I have a shelf full of 1and 2 early barrel CHEVY carburetors. ( Ford/ stromburg also ). While I will continue to work on this carburetor I am also going to find a “new” one while here in Florida.
I can NOT thank you all enough
Dan

 

Dan - the used pump is the original leather, and is too far gone to rejuvenate. The other one is a modern imitation. I would suggest trying to find either a good used leather pump (see the post above by 302GMC) or a new leather pump from one of the better rebuilding kits. A good used one can be rejuvenated by soaking in a light machine oil.

The fuel valve is described here: https://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Fuel_valves.htm

Jon.

 

Hello , this is the back side of the part that goes from between the exhaust/intake manifolds up to the Rochester B carb I have . I am assuming that the spring that that is mostly missing holds the choke closed until engine warms up .
Can someone tell me what it is called and where I may find a replacement spring coil ?
Thanks Dan

 

If anyone is interested for future reference
Thanks !!!