Maybe it didn't fit that tight on assembly and has been Loctited? A little heat would break the bond. Gary
Are you sure it isn't designed to use longer hex head or preferably socket head machine screws to thread into the hole and push against the crank to push the pulley off? As Jim said in post 13 there are locking hubs that work that way. I think the hub on the pulley on the motor for my air compressor works that way. You would need the good grade 8 machine screws and lube the threads good though.
If its a taper lock, you will never get it off by running screws into all the holes at the parting line. Two of those holes at the parting line should have threads on either the inside piece, or the outside piece, and the 3rd hold will have the threads on the other part. The two matching holes are used to pull the taper lock tighter, and the hole that does not match where the threads are is what is used to separate the lock. You run the screw that matches the threads into that non-matching hole and bottom the screw out, and keep turning. The hub (looks like it might be the inner part unless its really seated tight) should pull outward and will release the lock. If all three holes are fully threaded, its not a taper lock. You need to determine if its a taper lock or not. If its not a taper lock, I would use the outer 4 holes to mount your puller to and push off the center bolt on the crank. If you need to use larger bolts, the outer holes would be the easiest to open up bigger. You can apply heat with the hub under puller pressure, the bigger the heat source, the better, and you shouldn't have to heat the entire diameter of the hub, a couple places opposite each other to a dull red, about the diameter of a dime should be enough to break a press fit, especially if the hub is under pressure. I have lots of years in factory maintenance experience, done a lot of hub/gear pulling. Gene
It does not appear to be a regular taperlock because if it were, the inner part on the crank would be split. I don't see a split anywhere.
It looks like there is enough room to use a Dremel type tool to cut a slot through the male teeth on the pulley as far back from the front edge as possible. I would cut 3 slots spaced evenly around the pulley and each slot would go through two teeth. Then use a gear puller with the arms in the slots you just made. I would probably use a worm clamp to go around the three puller arms to keep the arms in the slots when you started applying pressure.
-------------. I missed how much thread engagement you have in the timing gear/sprocket. 2 diameters/.42" or more? Yeah, I'd say faster heat input is important. I'd preload your existing puller, then put a tin heat shield around the sprocket and play a decent OxyAcetylene flame around the rim to get it up to 300°F real quick. I think heating the rim will tend to expand the bore more than heating the center of the sprocket during the early phase of heating. Some folks report using a TIG welded to heat up (not melt) seized nuts and bolts. I do not know if TIG is a faster heat input, but it would seam to focus the heating better. McMaster-Carr lists some 12/24 Socket head cap screws in lengths up to 3". Theoretical tensile strength about 5000 lbs. I might consider making an intermediate adapter of 3/8" thick plate tapped for "real" screws, or a large centered bolt to push on the crank snout but bearing on a safety plate. I'd secure the adapter it to the sprocket with shorter 12-24 Socket head cap screws
Cut the head off of 3 long bolts of your size of choice, then weld them to the outside of the pulley evenly spaced. Install your puller and some nuts on the end of the bolts and pull away.
Probably because the housing has a small hole and is installed before the gear. So yes you’re missing something obvious
If all the fine suggestions given here do not remove it I would say you will have to cut and even possibly split the damn thing. I used to remove crank gears on big cat engines doing a cut and split method .
Warm it as quickly as possible. Engines get hot so no worries. Ok, not red hot but pretty fluggin hot so just be a little conservative with the heat. Once heated touch the crank with a dob of candle wax so it acts like it wants to run between. Yes, it'll cool slowly so warm it again. While not a some's good more's better gig make sure you follow the wax in with repeated conservative heat cycles. Put the puller on, give it some tension, warm it under tension. Lather, rinse, repeat. That's my best voodoo.
If it was mine, I'd have already taken out the oxy/acetylene after taking emery cloth to the shaft and cleaned it up shiny. It appears that the shaft/gear set had moisture in it and rusted at some point. The rust actually creates a bond between the two surfaces and the only way you are going to get that loose is to break the bond....heat and more than to just melt candle wax. It won't break in shear pulling on it with what you have available for set up. My suggested method; your puller set up, torch and aerosol can of penetrating oil.....I use JB-80. I'd probably give a couple iterations of heat pulley/gear with torch hot enough (800 to 1000 degrees F) that the penetrating oil evaporates and smokes like crazy....keeping on giving it blasts until it doesn't smoke any more. Repeat a couple of times...heat, blast with penetrating oil....cool. The thermal cycling (expand & contract) will break the bond and what happens when oil gets hot...it thins out Same thing happens top the penetrating oil and the thinner it can find it's way farther back in the joint....that you are just going to burn out again...but some rust with it...after several iterations then set up your puller and put some pressure on it. If it doesn't break loose....put tension on it and repeat. It will get about 98% of them and if it doesn't then you will need to cut and split it or carefully cut it off the shaft with a cutting torch. Good luck
Looks to me like it is a taper lock hub....You use holes to tighten it or the one lone hole to remove it...
And just like that.... POOF! he's gone I'm betting that he threw the puller, spit on the engine, threw his hands in the air with a torrent of foul language, and is now meditating on a beach somewhere in Mexico.... with a big fruity umbrella drink
Don't want to go about swearing, tossing shit and spitting but I'll certainly go for some beach somewhere!
Here's weird thing about the candle wax gig. Actual candles work better than straight paraffin bars. I don't why, but it goes deeper faster. Scented oils used? I dunno but the job smells better. Mrs Highlander saves "candle bones" for me. Izzat a keeper or what
All though they both work, I agree with your assessment of the candle stick / paraffin comparison, the sticks work better. I have shown many people how to properly use the technique and they are all believers. It’s also been my personal experience while using different techniques, that oil tends to travel away from heat or burns off while wax tends to travel towards heat and stays put. Once you learn the proper steps to take you will be saving all those parts and saving a lot of time as a result with far fewer fumes!
X-2..........I mean, you ain't gonna use it again anyway! 6sally6 DURN!!!.........read all the way to the end.....hoping for victory but........ WHY do guyz do that?!!......
Im still working on the problem. I drilled out 3- 4" 3/8 hex bolds and cut off the 12/24 screws and TIG welded them into the 3/8 bolts. went to use the puller and the 12/24 threads pulled out of the pulley. theres a shock..not... I drilled and tapped the holes to 1/4-20. I am going to put some heat to it and see what I can do. It still refused to budge with the 1/4-20's. I ordered a new pulley as I know this one is going to get destroyed. I also noticed the the pulley appears to be redesigned. we shall see. Im going to hit the pulley with mapp gas for 5 to 10 mins and get it good and hot and see what happens. I may just have to destroy the pulley. I will let the thread know what the final result is. Im going to retain the belt drive on the motor.
As an aside, how did you change out the main bearings, with the belt drive parts hanging on the front of crank?
those holes are 10/32 . they will never take the pressure that the 12/24's took and those threads were yanked out of the pulley
The cam pulley is just held on with 1 Left hand threaded bolt. If only the lower was designed better and not one piece.
Called comp to see if there was a change in the lower pulley design and they said ALL the pics on their website are generic pics. LMFAO. Comp is useless. The tech remembers talking to me and still insisted that the 3 pulling holes in the lower gear are 5/16 and that they are blind and meant for pulling and its certainly 1 piece. . OMFG. There is not enough room in there to drill and tap them for 5/16 without getting into the side meat of the pulley. Believe me I measured it. He states this without access to a pulley to look at. I offered to send him a pic of my pulley for reference and he had no desire to look at it. Comp is worthless and zero fucks given. Thank God thats the only comp stuff on or in my motor. There certainly won't be any more in the future. I'll keep the thread updated with what happens.
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