Looking to Get Started...

Thanks! Tomorrow


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I still need to do some more brake adjusting. The rears are locking up if I get on the brakes hard.


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I figured out how to stop the impressive backfire after shutoff. I ran it with the mix knob in the cab closed and it stopped. I guess I was running too rich.


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I still think I need to dial in a bit more advanced timing. I really drove it around this evening and it feels like it needs more advance when I’m running about 40mph. “I’m given her all she’s got!”


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Lastly for the evening- I have a significant oil leak after driving. It looks like it is coming from behind the motor in the flywheel housing maybe?See video. ... and WTH is that big cotter pin doing sticking down out of that hole anyway? What needs a big cotter pin in there?




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there is a procedure for properly adjusting the brakes. there is a major and minor adjustment procedures. after you fix the cam you should do a major adjustment.

I always retard the spark before shutting a model A down. when it is timed right it should "putt, putt putt...." when it is retarded. sorry for the crude drawings

 

pist-n-broke explained why this is leaking in post 278
the cotter pin is factory and was used to keep the hole open so it can drain.

 

Check out the model as they are cheaper and easier to get into!

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I've been told more than once that while going down the road the wings of the Cotter key actually turn keeping the Drain hole open so not to build up oil and get on the Clutch. I kinda thought the first time I heard that he was checking me to see how gullable I was. The second time I probably just had a funny look on my face after that I just said Ohhh,,

 

Awesome! Thanks tb22anda3rd! Makes sense. I will crack them back open tomorrow and make the change.

 

Your motor is probably missing the return tube in the Rear Main Cap.

 

That is what I look like right now. Ok....

 

Yeah.. like you explained earlier. I guess it is going to leak for awhile then.... I will keep oil handy and a drip pan on my floor

 

I think the reason for the Oil getting so funky is that due to adding Oil so often drivers just think the Oil is getting changed enough without pulling the actual Drain Plug.

 

I park my Banger over a catch pan that is 36" wide X 46" long and a 1" lip on all 4 sides with Cat litter in it. Once it's a real mess I take it out to the Burn pile and scrape it off while I'm burning brush.

 

You guys are awesome!

Thanks for all of the advice, direction, and recommendations. Plans for Sunday - Flip my passenger side rear brake “cam”, adjust the brakes again, advance the timing some more, and buy a pan and some cat litter

I started a thread on the “Wanted” ads here with my wish list.

 

Is this something I can get and just drop the oil pan and install or is it more involved than that?

 

If your lucky, yes. It's pipe thread into the actual main cap, Here's a photo of a new one from Mack's. You might want to make sure the drain passage in the Babbet is clear as well. While the Pan is off remove the windage tray and scrape the sludge out of the bottom. You also want to be sure the pipe is pointed as it should be. If it goes to far while getting it tight use some Locktight to hold it where it should be instead of just going till it won't turn anymore. If you need to remove the Main Cap be very careful of the shims between the cap and block. I always use heavy Permetex on the Main bolts to keep oil from migrating up the bolt shaft and out of the motor. Let's hope you don't need to go there.

 

The bellhousing cotter pin, as explained to me by Bruce Lancaster:

Henry Ford never did anything without a reason. He installed the cotter pin in the bottom of the bellhousing to keep the oil hole cleared, he made the hole to let the oil out, and he made the rear main leak to keep the cotter pin from rusting.

 

tb33anda3rd - Swapped the rear brake cams around. They were opposite your drawings on both passenger and driver. You’ll see from the pics that the cams were worn and I had to smooth them out before reinstalling. Did another more thorough brake adjust. Rears don’t lock up now. Thanks again for your help.




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I’m completely up and running now. I have a few things I still need to work out but I am starting to move toward turning Pappy into a hot rod.

Need to figure out how to adjust the idle lower. It is all the way adjusted down and it is still a bit too high.

I need to fix my significant oil leak. Piston-n-broke may have identified the problem as a clogged or missing return tube (on order).


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If you have your idle stop screw all the way out and still running fast check for leaking intake manifold gasket. Air leak makes lean and speeds up idle. Also causes a little hesitation when first on the throttle from take off.

 

Thanks. Yeah, I’m not seeing the hesitation on first throttle. I can push the linkage back by hand at the carb at it is fine. I just need to figure out how to adjust the throttle linkage. The idle screw is backed out already.


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disconnect the little linkage for the hand throttle. as things wear it may need to be bent or shortened

 

Now I see that MAC’s has two sizes for the return tube 5/16 and 3/8. Not sure which one I need.




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For $3.49, I would probably just order both and use the one that fits when I took it apart, saving the time would be worth that to me.

 

Done


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Good score! Please put drip rails back on, poor thing looks like a supermodel without eyebrows

 

Ha! On my list. Low on my list.

I just looked. I’m not sure where to find them.


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Before you just up and order replacement drip rails you may want to make sure you have something to mount them to. With the roof filled in you may not have wood behind the Tin to hang them on. I've removed wood when doing that job by customers request and not replaced it. This adds a new issue for Drip Rails.