Thought I’d post some pics of my 27 T roadster build. I bought the car with the body sort of bolted down to a 30-31 model A frame with drivetrain. I’m going to get it running with the Model A drivetrain for the meantime. I have a Mercury 255, 39 3 speed and V8 rear to go in the car eventually.
Some pics of pulling the 255 merc engine from the junkyard earlier this year Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Some pics of the frame I bought to get all the trans, rear axle and any other usable parts. The frame was pretty rotted out through the X member and the rails Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I was also able to find a 28-29 model A radiator for it. I think the lower profile of the 28-29 rad better matches the lower profile of the T body Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I’ve also got a set of 16” Kelsey Hayes bent spokes for the car. Still need blasting and powder coating Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So, what's the plan?!?!? Looks like a great start! That looks like dirt to me (though that does hold moisture). I'd bet you can get enough out of that X member to be useful on a T build. Those later frames are a lot bigger than a T, A, or 32 frame so there is a lot of material to choose from. The Spring-ahead and spring behind setups can get you down pretty low without frame kicks or dropped axles. I would try to salvage that rear sweep and crossmember. You can graft them onto an A frame if you go that way. You can also swap that crossmember for an A crossmember and run an A spring back there so you don't need a panhard bar. Here is my 29 AAV8 on AA rails. It has a late axle (that is dropped) and rear setup like that under it. The front is on a piece of box tube inside the frame rails and the rear is on a crossmember that is similar dimensionally to what you have there with the frame kicked up 6". It put this thing quite low. (It's not sitting totally dragass, that's a trick of the perspective mixed with the rear bones not being attached to anything)
Your truck looks good, I’ve always liked the model a trucks. The frame was a lot worse than it looks on the pictures. I did keep a couple of the frame parts but a good chunk went in the scrap metal bin. I kept all the mechanical parts off it, steering column, pedals, wishbones etc. I’ve also got a 32 Ford K member to put into the car. I’m going for a prewar look at the moment. That will have to change if I put the 8ba in it as that’s a 49-53. So I’ll have to either find an earlier motor to keep it prewar or just go for a early 50s look. I’ve done a lot of the work already and the car is about 95% road ready at the moment. I’ve just been going through my photos and decided to post some of them here. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So these are the front body mounts I put together. I know a lot of people weld something to the top frame rail to mount it. It probably would have a been a lot easier if I had done it that way, but this is the way I did it. They bolt to the inside of the frame rail and the mount comes up and meets the top frame rail to mount the body Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Once I had the radiator mounted properly I could then set the headlights up. I had a stock model A light bar and some later model headlights (not sure of the year). Played around until I found a height I liked. I cut the ends of the bar and welded them underneath at frame width and blended the ends of the headlight sockets. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks! Well, as far as the 8BA goes, I'm pretty sure you could run 59AB style center spout heads to get the look or just go for the prewar look as if the engine got swapped later on.
I ditched the factory updraft carb for a single 94 on a Burns downdraft manifold. I had to modify the manifold slightly to fit with the stock Model A exhaust manifold. I rebuilt a 94 carb I had and fitted it. I built new fuel lines for the car because I was ditching the model T cowl gas tank in favour of a oval Model T tank in the trunk. I decided to build a heat shield for the fuel line at the carburetor to hopefully avoid any vapour lock issues. I used the factory Model A throttle linkage mounted on the back of the block and made a pivot and new short throttle rod to hook it all to the carb. I also ended up replacing the exhaust manifold as the one on there was too warped to seal on the block Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Gas does not gravity feed up hill. You may need a pump. The early T had to back up a hill some times because gas would not flow to carburator especially below 1/2 a tank
Pedal clearance for the Model A pedals is an issue in the already tight confines of a model T cockpit. I removed the factory floor brace to allow more room for the pedals and the floor. I laid out some templates and tried some designs for the beads in the floor until I found something that worked. I cut the floor out of steel, laid out the bead designs and built a structure for the floor to rest on. The puny Chinese bead roller I have was not going to give the results I wanted in the floor so I had to send the floor to Rods and Restos in Strathmore, Alberta to get the beads done on a pullmax. I was very happy with the results, I had to alter the initial design slightly but came out with a better end product. I welded all the braces into the Model T and installed the floor. The floor panel must have been in and out of that car well over a hundred times during the build. You can see how much more room the braces gave over the factory ones Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Some pictures of making the trans cover and the pedal and steering column surrounds Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Floor panels are awesome! Great build. The heat shield on the carb looks spot on as well, I really like where this is headed, Gow man Gow!
The 16” bent spokes are gonna be perfect on the car, can’t wait to see them mounted up. The stock A wheels look like they have deep rubber too. I subscribed of course lol
Thanks. The tires on the car at the moment are pretty much brand new. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thank you very much for posting those hammer form pics. I need to do the same on my car and while I had the general idea, your pics help me visualize how it will meet up with the original dash panel. Your floors look really great as well!
Wow, I REALLY like what you've done with this floor and interior space in general! Is it all held in with rivnuts and 1/4-20's?
Thanks, yeah its all rivnuts and 1/4 x 20 bolts for now. eventually I'm gonna swap them out for stovebolt screws to give it more of a riveted aircraft style look
Wow, amazing job on your roadster, you just created a lot more leg room with your new floors. I want to do the same with my T, but I lack your skills. I'm subscribed to get more ideas from your build.
Great work. Every inch counts in a T roadster if you want to sit "in" it not "on" it. Cheers, Stewart.
Thanks, I really like your T. Yours is one of the ones i was looking at for ideas for mine. I ve had a picture of it saved on my phone for a while.
Thanks. that is the struggle, trying to get low enough to look good driving it but high enough to be comfortable. I'm 6'2" as well so i need all the room i can get in it
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