This is the carb off of my 1963 Galaxie 500. The car had a rebuild kit that came with the purchase, the car ran but the car idled at about 1,200 and the carb wouldn’t kick down. It made loading the car on a trailer exciting. That aside, I pulled the carb off, soaked it and then rebuilt it today. I think someone tried to fix the carb a very long time ago, couldn’t get it to run right and gave up and let it sit. It was registered last in 2005. I think I know why, it appears that the throttle plates are binding and I can’t figure out why. The plates only fit in one way and the rod they bolt to doesn’t bind. I tried installing the plates in different ways but like I said, they only go in one way. As you can see, the adjustments are way out of spec. Has anyone else run into this? It doesn’t much matter as I have a Holley 4 bbl and an Edelbrock aluminum intake that I will install after I completely replace the brake system. I was just hoping to test the brakes under its original engine configuration before diving into the engine and possibly doing a cam change as well. The first four pics are the before pictures.
Well, one of the throttle plates is upside down; the little 'nubs' should both be showing the same way. Pull them out, then re-fit them without the screws. One way they'll completely close, the other way they won't. Reinstall the screws once you find the right way, but don't tighten them until the throttle plates are fully closed; that will properly align them. Double-check after tightening. Do put some locktite on the throttle plate screws.
I've got a 2100 that is otherwise a stellar carb it idles perfect, at ~600 RPM, but try to idle down much lower than that (factory engine idle spec of 450-550), it tends to bind as well. Kind of annoying. Interesting to learn that an adjustment of sorts of the throttle plates is possible @Crazy Steve but I'm a bit leery to try that, might make it worse? They "look" good when holding up to the light.
Listen to Steve, I rebuilt boat loads of them when I worked for Ford and we did exactly as he said. An excellent, dependable, and simple carb that Ford used up until fuel injection took over.
Things that you have to watch for are wear in the shaft bores and crap in the air bleeds for the idle. Other than that, a drunken monkey could rebuild them blindfolded and they will work fine
Doesn't the throttle shaft look fat? I haven't had one of these carbs in my hand but I remember shaft dia being close to 5/16", the one in that carb looks way bigger.
It’s too late for this carb, but I rarely take the plates out of a carb, just for this reason. They are a little difficult to get back in just right. The way to do it is just like Crazy Steve said. Make sure the idle speed screw is backed way out so that you can the throttle plates as low as possible in the bores with out binding. The p,at es won’t “ spin “ in the bores as they are somewhat oblong. Those are some of the best two barrel carbs made. Bones
Steve, I did as you said and it worked perfectly, hats off to you sir. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That carb doesn't look corroded, so the throttle plates must have been held open by either the idle screw or the choke (fast idle) linkage.
Looks like you need to fix the broken screw on the power valve cover (or ignore it if it's not leaking):
I have to ignore it for now, the previous owner snapped the head off of the bolt. I tried extracting it but to no avail, so I rtv’ed it and the gasket. Seems to be working out well and not leaking. I have a Holley I’m going to replace it with anyway. The car runs like a champ now, I wish I could post the video. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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