Shortening a 1936 torque tube for a '32

Has anyone here done one? my guess is removing the 450mm from the centre of both drive shaft and torque tube is the go. I'm having them machine cut then I have access to a roller to weld them on. Has anyone got any advice or do's and don'ts? -cheers - Ryan Ford

 

Would it be easier to just use the ends, and get some cold - rolled heavy walled tubing and insert the ends into it, and use that as the driveshaft?

 

When I did mine , i took it from the rear of the torque tube and the center of the drive shaft.

 

The 35/36 drive shaft is a tube with flared ends. The transmission end has a 6 spline male extension. The axle end has a 10 spline female receiver. Both the extension and the receiver are welded into the tube.

Rather than shorted the existing tube I would have a drive shaft shop cut the extension and receiver off in a long bed lathe and use them to make a new shaft out of good drive shaft tubing.

The 35/36 torque tube does not have an intermediate bearing. I agree with 34FordConv. Make the cut near the flange.

An alternative to using the 35/36 tubular drive shaft, which make great exhaust headers, you can use a later solid shaft machined to accept a ten spline coupler.

The 35/36 tubular drive shaft is about 2 7/8" diameter at it's widest point. Thickness is about .160". Getting a square cut and perfect alignment after welding is, I think, chancy. If it is not right you will be able to feel it in the seat of your pants.

 

Never cut the middle of a driveshaft.
On mine I had a shop shorten the driveshaft at the back end, after that, they put it in a lathe to see if it spun nice, without wobbles.
Remember you can't really balance a 35-36 driveshaft when using a torque tube, there isn't enough room for weights.

I did the torque tube myself, I just made sure everything was square.

 

Cheers guys!! I'll send the drive shaft off to a tail shaft shop and do the tube myself. It's got to be right as I like driving fast, thanks again. - Ryan

 

well as a pipefitter /welder i can tell you how we do it , make shure your lenth is correct... then tack one side ,as close to square as can be , then using about a 2 foot square,or two,line up the other side. then tack weld 180 degrees from the first tack... then take the square 90 degrees from either tack, and move the joint to as square as possible.then make the final tack, 180 degrees from it as you have verified the joint is square. the added length of 2 ft square makes it more accurate.you will see as you fit up the joint. how accurate the fit is where the straightness is.. weld a quarter at a time opposite sides... never contiuous weld all way around.. this will warp joint... hey thats how we do it on the big jobs..... 1 inch pipe all the way to 48 inches... welded them all , you will be pleased with the final results , as your work shows ... ps... do a test joint first to learn the procedure.....good luck... you can do it.....lots have before you.. no sense farming this out......................................................k

 

Hey guys, I know this is a super old thread And this is likely a very obvious question but I’m curious, there’s no reason I can’t use a torque tube and solid drive shaft out of a 37-48 with my 36 rear is there? I mean they’re getting cut down anyways right?