Technical Quick Connect Battery Cable

I'm looking for a different way to hook/connect a battery. In my '31, the battery is under the car alongside the frame and not fun for an old fat guy to wrestle in and out. Even more to the point, my '63 Ford tractor (not a hot rod, but at least HAMB era and a Ford) needs to have the battery removed and kept inside on a charger because it can be weeks between uses. I am tired of wrestling with battery clamps that loosen with the constant on/off procedures.

I'm looking for something like a clamp that permanently fastens to the batter post and quick connects to the cable left on the machine. Any ideas? Thanks

 

golf cart connectors? Anderson Powerpole,

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb350-350amp

We use a smaller version, for #6 AWG wire, on the robot batteries...they work great

 

I don't know but the thing that comes to mind is the twist lock style welding cable ends.
You'd have to make a pigtail for the battery side, using the regular battery clamps and put the connectors inline.

 

I just did a googly search and came up with literally dozens of styles

 

As fat and lazy as I am I think I would use a Deltran battery tender and a long "cable" to the battery. All you would have to remember is to disconnect at the battery prior to driving off.

 

I've got the style that Squirrel showed in post 2 on my winch on my car trailer. It came on the winch but makes it easy to take the battery off and haul it and put it away in storage and the cable ends are protected and there are caps for them. The connector piece pops out so you can swag it on the cable and then put it back in place but you want to make sure and order the correct connector for your cable size.

 

Just install some remote battery posts in a place that`s easy to get to.

 

Installed on our Dragster

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/103...MI7tLWiMCc7QIVDmKGCh1DMASkEAQYBiABEgIna_D_BwE

 

Those would be great for hooking cables to a rig that doesn't have a charging system to charge the battery or run the starter on a dragster that has a mag and no battery. I'd be thinking that they might not be too good to run on a rig that was going to be driven down the road and not have a positive locking connection. Also seriously more expensive than the connector I have on my car trailer winch like the ones Squirrel showed.

 

The spring ring cables used on GM cars in the 1960s worked pretty well. You need a pliers to remove them but that just takes a second (just a quick squeeze and they come right off), and they push on without the need for tools. They're available in a variety of lengths, and in red and black. You can get them from a number of GM reproduction part sources.

 

My tractor has these.

 

My Sedan Delivery has a Battery Tender type charger, more-or-less permanently connected to the battery; just plug/unplug the tender from the 110V outlet as needed. Really cheap from HF. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.

 

Just install a solar battery tender . We used lots of them on our cars and boats when I worked for the feds. They are weather resistant and as long as you have daylight your battery stays charged.
On the cars we mounted them on the back window shelf and on the boats we screwed them to the decks.

 

Where do you find those?

 

Made of bicycle parts?

I use this on the negative side of my batteries to disconnect the battery when the car is parked, you could use them on both terminals.


Remove the green knob and the part the cable is attached to slides out

 

Found them,,,

 

Too many choices, but I know Squirrel’s suggestion works great if there is easy access to the battery.

 

B-Body-Bob why are you just disconecting the Neg. Post You should
Disconect THE Positive Post!
If you take the Pos. off you won't have any elect. thru the hole Vehicle.
But if you Disconect the Neg. Post you still have a Circuit,
You have Ground's from your Engine and other Places, making
a complete Circuit!

Just m,y 3.5 cents

Live Learn & Die a Fool

 

A lot of good options.

My "daily" that sits quite a bit now that I got a gas sipper had a battery that liked to dwindle down if it sat too long. I found a battery tender branded solar power tender. Maybe not the solution for your hot rod if its inside, but would be an option for the tractor maybe. Mine just sits on the dash under the windshield. Hasnt needed jumped since I put it in

 

Thank for many great suggestions. There's access, but not a lot of room to wrench the positive post on the tractor without shorting it out (the tractor was originally positive ground which put the positive post to the outside, but I changed it to negative ground when I converted from 6 to 12 volts). What I find is that the standard battery post connectors on the cable almost "warp" when being tightened so they touch at the open end before they tighten full around the post. Just enough to be loose, not enough for a shim. I figured it I could make my connection further down the line as it were, I could leave the post connection tight.

 

Ok but doesn't it matter that those grounds from other places don't ground back to the battery?

I put it on the negative post because it won't spark, just like disconnecting the battery and taking the ground post off first.

 

The posts are tapered, and the positive post is larger than the negative post (by design).

And battery terminals are not all equal, there are some really crappy ones out there, and some really good ones. The good ones are designed to work for one post or the other, that is, they are the correct size for positive or negative. Also, how you install them makes a difference, if you leave them up too high, they might "bottom out" before clamping tightly.

But you probably knew all that already...

 

Uh.....I need the explanation behind this one....




Doesn’t work that way.

a50merc, go out and pull the negative cable and let us know how many of the “complete circuits” still function.

Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Um, what?

 

If the ground is disconnected at the battery you have NO grounds, the circuit is open.

 

Years ago, I needed to change my battery (under floor/frame mount). It took 2 hours to remove, in my shop with all my tools, jacks, etc.

I relocated it to under the seat and installed a master shut off switch between the seats. I also added a jumper like is used to charge fork lift batteries. It's mounted low on the passenger side firewall in the pic. I also made some jumper cables with the same end on it. Best modification I ever did. I can now tip the seat back and have the battery out in 10 minutes. But with the shutoff I have never had the battery run down again.

.bjb

 

I put my battery in a small Samsonite case and didn't want to wrestle the cables through the box when it is time to remove the battery. I ran the cables through bulkhead fittings in the suitcase, attached a quick connector like a forklift uses. Works exactly as planned. This is on my trunk, no cables are visible once installed. Easy removal.

The stickers make it look less like a ladies make up bag

I love these little Odessey batteries!

 

Geez, what a bunch of hacks.

 

Bandit Billy best looking battery case I have ever seen!