Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Brake Booster pushrod shim

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kansas Bobby McQuick, Oct 1, 2020.

  1. Good day. When I bought my '55 FrankenFairlane, it already had power front disc brake conversion. It has a Maverick booster, which I had rebuilt by RockAuto/Cardone. Problem is, the pushrod adjustable end WILL NOT adjust, and there is a gap of about .12" between pushrod end and master cylinder piston bottom. Seems the common recommendation is to adjust for a .02" gap, but this adjusting nut is either all the way out, or locked....will not budge.

    Is there a safe way to shim it, maybe a washer that I concave, or a nylon washer or spacer heated and molded, so it fits on the rod end? Or should I just live with the slightly spongy brakes? Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2020
  2. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,932

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Get a Mustang adjustable from Wilwood.. it will solve your problem.
     
  3. Bob Lowry
    Joined: Jan 19, 2020
    Posts: 1,513

    Bob Lowry

    How about using a rubber vacuum line cap...lots of sizes at any Ace hardware of Napa store...

    cap.jpg
     
  4. Should be able to replace the push rod?
     
    VANDENPLAS likes this.

  5. Gizzy
    Joined: Jan 20, 2008
    Posts: 761

    Gizzy
    Member
    from N.W,Ohio

    Yeah I had gotten a kit from Speedway & it had different plungers you could switch for a 64 Belair I had at the time.The biggest thing I noticed was at the pedal,there was 2 different holes to locate it.If it was in the wrong hole the angle of the plunger was wrong & it wouldn't go straight into the master cylinder.But it would operate,drove me crazy for a couple of days til I figured it out.
     
  6. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 704

    brading
    Member

    I take it that you are talking about the front push rod that goes into the M/C if it should be adjustable and will not move I would get in touch with Rockauto as that should have sorted it out when the booster was rebuilt. With brakes always do it right, no boges.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2020
  7. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 1,466

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    image.jpg I experienced a similar problem, the pushrod between the booster and MC had what I felt was inadequate thread engagement when properly adjusted. I found a grade 8 socket head cap screw with the appropriate thread size, cut it to length and rounded the end to match the contour of the original. This simple tool from Baer brakes really simplified the adjustment process...
     
    59Apachegail likes this.
  8. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,504

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York

    ** Edit looks like ^^someone else^^ replied with the same answer already.


    I used a wire hanger to measure what I needed. From there I ordered a bolt from McMaster Carr and made my own with a grinder.

    5949FE84-6DBA-44A0-A951-2643840150B7.jpeg
    F77B4C6F-1EEB-4DDC-B579-D25B76026E9F.jpeg
    Eventually I massaged the top of that bolt round like the one it was replacing. What size do you need I have extras?
     
    Black_Sheep likes this.
  9. That's why I really want to use this Maverick booster if at all possible....the holes in the firewall and the brake pedal pushrod are all good, booster now rebuilt....I just need to sort out the pushrod end deal.
     
  10. Gentlemen, thanks all for your suggestions, y'all are very helpful. As it turns out...

    I re-measured, 5 times, and re-did the math....turns out that gap between booster pushrod end and master cylinder piston (at the deepest indentation) is only .01 +/_ .004, so I actually needed to file a tiny bit off the pushrod end....which I did, and smoothed it and all. Reinstalled this weekend and it seems to work just fine, no brake drag, and no excessive sponginess.

    Now I just need to find some 3/8" id vacuum hose...you'd think in a city the size of San Diego there would be ONE auto parts store that stocks that! Ebay.
     
  11. That is a great idea. I did not know the booster pushrod comes out easily, I didn't want to take a chance on damaging the rubber seal. As you can see below, I figured out that I'm good to go with the booster after all, but I'll keep your suggestion in mind for future projects, thanks!
     
    59Apachegail and Black_Sheep like this.
  12. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You really need to measure the booster pin clearance with full vacuum in the booster.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.