Guys and gals of course. Ever since I bought the Vedette the rear door alignment has driven me crazy. I have had a go at adjusting them but can't seem to get any movement or improvement. Any ideas or assistance would be great as I'm sure most of you have dealt with similar. The hinge side is three bolts to the door but attached to the body perminantly.
Loosen the screws on the latch receiver on the body, and move it inward the same amount as the excess gap.
Gimpyshotrods, tried that, no movement at all there, not slotted. Even gave it a careful hit with the BFH.
Remove the latch and see if the door can be pushed to a more closed position. If it can not, put paper strips between the body and door to find out where there is no gap. That will get you started in finding out where the problem is.
I have also seen this as an issue when the latch receiver is too far IN already. When you close the door slowly, you should hear two clicks. It should latch on the first click, but not be closed all of the way. It will rattle if you shake it. Push it in further, and it should close and latch the rest of the way, with a second click. If the latch receiver is all the way in, you cannot get the second click. You could try slacking the three screws, and sliding it out as far as it will go. It should be slotted. No car manufacturer is that accurate, even now.
Ok thanks guys, will play some more. I would imagine it would have to have adjustment as well. Thanks heaps for the tips and I'll report back if and when it's sorted. Off to work now night shift so will have to be later. Paul
You guys were spot on, adjusted it out and closed the gap on the top half perfectly. Still out on both rear rear doors at the bottom. Not by as much but. Lots better but still not right. It's possible that the rear doors are off another car and maybe slightly twisted?
Sounds like the door could be slightly twisted. Get an older panelbeater/tradesman and they will perform wonders using a rolled up shop towel and manually/brutal force to twist the door the required direction.
Bt34, appears to be, finding an old time panel man is not easy these days but will ask around. Thanks for replying.
Slacken off the lower hinge bolts to the point of just holding, close the door and gently push the bottom in till the panels line up.. Carefully open the door, and tighten the hinge bolts without moving anything..
does the door align with the rocker? body alignment should start at the rear and work forward. it is possible the front door and fender are off also. if the front edge of the door aligns with the rocker then the door may need to be twisted. post a photo.
That makes sense, on shift so will try and post a photo later today. Really appreciate the help from you all.
If you remove the striker from the door jamb and close the door, does it line up from top to bottom? Does it open and close easily the way you have it adjusted right now? If the striker is binding up or down it will mess with the reveal. If it is still out at the bottom when you close it without the striker in place, put your shin against the lower portion of the door and pull out on the upper portion, in a twisting motion, it won't mess with the front as the hinges are stronger than we are. If you can't get any twist that way, roll up a towel and put it in the upper jamb area, close the door and push in on the bottom. The towel is serving to hold out on the door for you. It's hard to explain but easy to do. It's one of those things you don't want a customer seeing you do to their car lol. I use a 3' piece of 2X4
Hey Lloyd, thanks for the help. Where I'm at now....... guards, sills, front doors all in line and in the right place. Front of rear doors in line with sills and front doors. Top rear of rear doors lines up with body. Bottom rear of rear doors about 5 mm proud of body line. Looks like I have some gentle persuasion in my future to fix it. Good to know that it seems to be something that does happen to other cars. I'll try and post some more photos. Paul
You could put a rubber block or wood block between the door jamb and the door frame a little above the stricker and push the bottom of the door. If needed you sit on the ground with your back on a wall and push with your foot. You have to be careful not to bend the corner or make a dent though.
Be careful,you could make it a lot worse,those big doors on the old cars are real hard to twist like that.If it has had a patch put on the bottom it may just be made that way,then it is really hard to fix.I would stop by a bodyshop and see if they can help,you may be able to move the door in on the lower hinge a bit,you might be able to split the difference in the 2 doors.I would not recommend twisting the door if you have never done it before,this is better done before the paint goes on. Harvey
You may have to remove the door from the hinges or adjust the hinge back like you did the latch, it is possible the door may have been slightly warped,. A old school way of aligning a door that is kicked out at the bottom is to us a piece of 2" x 4" between the body and door just above the area where it protrudes outward and try to flex the door inward, go slow and easy but that may help. HRP
A lot of older French cars had one side of the hinge welded or riveted to the body and / or door frame which offers very limited adjustment on that side. I had to wrap a seat belt around doors put a wood block on the door to protect it and use a crowbar almost as tall as me to twist door frame. Sure you have to know what you're doing when doing this. If the only issue is the bottom corner of the door, I don't think I would bother trying to change the front of the rear door alignment because it will require to change the alignment on the front door, then the fender and maybe hood then what if something still can't be aligned or worse: you break a bolt that's been there for 60 years.
Okay, where I'm at..... as 37 Caddy said, these doors are solid. No patch panel on the bottom (pre build photos show rust free body). Tried getting some leverage on the door, she won't move at all. Got to the point where I was scared I'd damage it. No flex at all. Must be some solid steel in there. Got a lot of old wide ratchet straps so may ponder making up something I can torque up slowly and carefully to move the bottom in. It would have been a lot easier before paint...... I'm going to play a bit with the hinges and try and meet it half way. Like Chrisp said the hinges are welded to the body so limited in adjustment. It won't beat me but may have to wait for a while. Still got the feelers out for a good panel man. After all it's only a daily beater lol. Thanks everyone for your input and sage advice as usual. It's what makes the HAMB great. Paul
I am dealing with rear door alignment issues on the driver side of my 65 Comet SEGA super stock project. I did find out that the car had been hit fairly hard in the left rear and right front sometime early in it's life. After taking of the inner panels and seeing the Ford replacement panel part number stencils and seeing some welding in the door jamb. Seeing a kink in the the floor pan transmission tunnel and a kink in the pass. front inner fender panel gives the history report. the car is straight and has been checked for being square. You may have a car that was wrecked in the past and fixed but not fixed perfectly. Good luck you may have to say that's close enough or get real serious with your repair.