I just installed a Ram clutch kit and flywheel in my HenryJ. Had to pull the trans in with bolts on the last 1/2" to the Lakewood bell housing. Once installed the throwout bearing will not slide on the trans input shaft via the shift fork. I'm sure it's in a bind, but I've removed and installed the 4 speed 3 times now and get the same effect. Everything fits perfectly on the floor before I install the trans. New pilot bushing, new Lakewood scatter shield, new Ram clutch and flywheel. I checked fitment of every part before the install. The throwout bearing appears to be binding, but not sure how to correct it. Any ideas???? 454 Chevy with Super T10.
Well, if everything is correct you don't pull the trans in with the bolts. It's actually a good way to break things. Hard to tell without pictures, but there are several length throw out bearing collars; the Lakewood bell housing usually has an adjustable clutch fork pivot; and then there is the clutch fork itself. How much of that was changed? Are you sure that the clutch disk is correctly installed? Or the Ram flywheel is deep enough for the rattle springs if so equipped?
I've worked on some OT, late model clutches that have various thickness shims for adjusting the throwout bearing...... to keep it from over-extending, etc. In other words, there could be a sweet spot it needs to sit.
What style pressure plate and what length T.O.B are you using? Jmountainjr is bringing up excellent point's, as usual. Pic's would definately be a huge help.
since you've already had it apart several times,one more won't hurt-put it together WITHOUT the fork and see if the T-O bearing moves-my guess is the fork length from pivot ball to fork opening is too tight
The. Ram clutch is a diaphragm type. The clutch fork is basically straight with very little curve to it. I just pulled the trans again. It looks like the bearing was moving with the fork, it just wasn't moving into the fingers and I can't make it move into the fingers. I think the problem is the fork, but Summit and Ram Clutches are not taking tech support calls due the stupid ass virus scare. I've tried the long and short bearing. Ive also tried stabbing the trans without the fork, but not with the bearing on the trans input shaft. The trans is seating properly against the bell housing. I have 2 T10's. I think I'll try the other one. Maybe the input shaft on one is worn too much, hell I don't know. I should have put an automatic in this one.....
I discovered the hard way that there are many different versions of the GM clutch fork, and they are not all interchangeable.
Is your Ram clutch disk a solid hub, or a spring hub? If a spring hub, I would make sure that the disk is correctly installed with the protruding springs toward the flywheel and that the flywheel recess is deep enough to accept the springs and also they are not hitting on the flywheel bolts. I recently had a friend buy a light weight steel flywheel that was intended for use with a solid hub disk and he tried to use a spring hub. Obviously the disk was not in contact with the flywheel, but he managed to get it together to about the point that you are at. And despite all of this, a manual trans is way more friendly to the average home guy than any auto! You will get this working.
OK the problem was the clutch fork....I was using a pretty straight fork that came with the trans out of another Chevy. The one I needed is bent like a 57 Chevy fork. Ordered Lakewood fork from Summit yesterday. Should be here Thursday. I'll post when it's in and installed. Thanks for all the help guys. Very much appreciated.
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