Technical How to trigger HEI using stock points dist?

Power, points, ground.

 

The modules with the three pins on top are all distributor mount units. For this application you want the remote mount module without those three pins. See post #58 above by @Mimilan.

 

Below is a photo of the remote mount Ford ignition module and the heat sink.

Correct me if you have better info on grey remote module numbers:

Motorcraft DY-1075
Standard Motor Products LX226
Napa Echlin TP33

Phil

 

Does anyone have a suggestion for how the points should be gapped to send signal to module?
How do the guys using MSD boxes set their points?
Thanks.

Phil

 

Some may find this helpful

https://www.49ccscoot.com/manuals/FORD TFI electronic ignition.pdf

Phil

 

I personaly use the Chrysler box but you are duplicating to old transister system taking the amp load off the points and let the box carry it. There is no free lunch MSD claims about 9 amps for every 1000 rpm that can tax a set of points opening 17 times a second at road speeds If you drop that to less than 1 amp the life goes way up.

 

The Mopar has been a reliable inexpensive setup for a long time. The only advantage to Ford TFI is it is a more modern design. But it is a bit more expensive.

Phil

 

Five years old and seems like a normal thread, the OP was given all the tools to get the job done and not a peep from him if he did it or how it turned out and worked. Very good information none the less.

 

I decided to try this TFI setup. The only salvage yard I looked at didn't have any gray, remote mount ones that I could find so I bought an Echlin one and a harness from E Bay. I wired it up like the picture on here shows and my car wouldn't start. I got a Standard one from a parts store thinking I got burnt from the E Bay seller and my car still wouldn't start. I took it out of the car and set it up on my work bench and still couldn't get it to fire. I was about to give up and I pulled the silicone seal out of the harness and found 2 wires crossed. Maybe it was supposed to be that way, in it's intended application? Anyway, I straightened out my wiring and the car ran.
With the stock point gap (Chevy V8), and the same timing, it ran OK but pinged under load and made my tach go nuts. I tinkered around and found it likes .010" point gap. runs pretty nice now. I replaced a Pertronix set up that ran OK but at light throttle cruise, it had a random miss every once in a while.
I had this heat sink that I milled three fins out of to mount the module.

Gary

 

@blue 49 thanks for the update with your experience. Please continue to post here if you have additional info.

 

Firing 17 times a second would just be 255 RPM on an 8 cylinder engine. 17 openings (per second) times 60 (seconds in a minute) equals 1020 firings per minute. 1020 divided by 4 (the number of combustion events per crankshaft rotation of an 8 cylinder engine) equals 255. You'd be lucky to get most 8 cylinder engines to idle that slow, much less move the vehicle at "road speed".

 

I need to proof read better left off a zero

 

Something else to think about when using the grey TFI is what coil to use to keep the module healthy.
We've learned the importance of using the correct resistance coil from Pertronix. Each module generation that they sell requires a specific coil resistance.
I was able to determine that the TFI equipped Ford's used a 0.5 ohm coil. Of course it is one of those modern square block looking things. So unless the cool is going to be hidden we need a traditional looking coil rated at 0.5 ohms. This is the closest thing I could find without taking my ohm meter to the parts store coil aisle.
https://pertronixbrands.com/product...rower-ii-coil-45-000-volt-0-6-ohm-black-epoxy

Other suggestions? Thanks.

 

@blue 49 I know the wiring connector/harness you used needed repair to be useable, Could you provide a link to that product? Thanks.

 

I used the same coil I bought for the basic Pertronics set up. My meter showed 1.7 ohms. At Summit, a performance replacement for the Ford coil was spec'd at .7 ohms. I just bought a Taylor chrome coil that Summit also spec's as .7 ohms and my meter reads 1.1 ohms.

I thought I got my harness plug from E Bay but it must have been Amazon. I see one of the reviews told of the same problem I had with the crossed wires.https://www.amazon.com/1986-1993-Mu...ywords=TFI+Harness+plug&qid=1605053755&sr=8-1

Gary