Technical Ceramic header welding

So - I have a set of the Patriot lake headers, with the flange for a cap plate and provisions for under car exhaust.

I want to remove the flange, and set it up so that I can run trimmed down oil filter covers as end caps. I guess I'll need to weld a cross bar plate inside the header end so that I'll have something to bolt to.

Welding from inside the header - think that will bubble the ceramic coating on the outside? Any other thoughts or advice?

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If you weld anywhere on a coated header, I would expect to cause a change to the outside coating, that change may be as simple as a color change, or it could be a complete breakdown of the coating within an inch of the weld. Gene

 

Would you consider a cap that is compatible with the existing flange?

Phil

 

So, I have the caps that fit the flange; I just don't like the look of it... I had ordered the version without exhaust hook ups, but was sent these instead. At the time I kinda thought, ok, these will work. But now I wish I just had the straight versions and had baffles.

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You will burn the coating like Gene said. Even running a lean condition gets hot enough to hurt them, your weld is hotter and more concentrated

 

Saw them off close to the header, leave a nice smooth flat cut. Machine a couple of stepped plugs with threaded holes in the center, put a bar with a hole on the inside and bolt it together. Not invisible but much cleaner and no discoloration.

 

That's what I was thinking; just bolt the bar in...

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Make an adapter plate that bolts to the header and uses a gasket. Then do what you need to do to the adapter plate to get it to take an oil cap. Any welding on the header itself is going to screw the coating up and make it flake and rust.
I guess you could insert a threaded pipe into the adapter. If you cut the flanges off, its gonna rust anyway. Outside of stripping the cermachrome , doing the welding, and the re-doing the cermachrome......its gonna rust.

 

When you weld on the headers then you will have to send them back for stripping and a new coating of ceramic.

 

Why don't you cap off the under car hook-up, paint the stub black so it's not as noticeable, and run the baffle's like you had originally planned? If it's because you would rather not have the stub at all, I understand.