I am just after a sanity check. I am using an International beam axle and am wanting to run 6 lug wheels to match the rear. I have come across some trailer disk brake hubs that have bearings that are easily adapted to the spindle on the international axle. On one side I think this is not a good idea as they are trailer hubs. On the other side I think these hubs are made to carry a heavy load at the speed limit so they should be just as good as any other hub. Here is one example I found https://trailersparesdirect.com.au/...ducts/disc-hub-12inch-6-stud-slimline-bearing Has anyone used trailer hubs or would like to comment one way or the other. Thanks Steve
I've used car disc brake hubs on a trailer and they survived so I don't see any issue with your proposal, as long as it will work for your project why not. Can you obtain a suitable calliper for your system?
Remember that trailers are designed to basically go straight, there is no load from turning. (The tire “drags” around the corner) This maybe a over precaution but I would make sure the hub can withstand the side load from a turn. A Similar example is that some people install tires designed for a scooter on their Microcar because of the lack of tires available in microcar sizes. The issue is a scooter leans into a turn whereas a microcar steers into a turn, the scooter tire does not have the correct sidewall or tread pattern for this. Just my opinion......
Trailer discs are generally not ventilated. Why would you run un-ventilated discs on the front of any car? My car runs 4 wheel ventilated discs and I know I will never have that sinking feeling going down a long decent of "will the brakes hold up?"
THIS ^^^^ Without the heat dissipation capabilities of ventilated discs, I wouldn't be doing any spirited driving. The solid discs might get a bit of a glow effect happening. Even with normal operation, the weight of your truck will create extra heat in the discs. I have no doubt that the solids would work, but wouldn't it build somewhat of a self-limiting factor into the braking system? My opinion, go the extra and find/adapt/create a ventilated setup.
https://trailersparesdirect.com.au/products/ventilated-stainless-rotor-310mm-6-stud Hey @Reidy , these are on the same site. Much better option.
OP says he is looking at hub/disc combo as I understand his post. The example in your post appears to be disc only. Ray
Depending on the trailer design and loading, there can be quite a lot of side load on a trailer hub. The sharpness of the corner, the center of gravity of the loaded trailer and, of course speed, will all affect the side load imposed on the wheel/tire/hub of a trailer. Ray
Ok. I will do the extra work. https://trailersparesdirect.com.au/...ntilated-disc-hub?_pos=1&_sid=00c6dfc65&_ss=r
Trailer brakes, with slip on rotors exist, even vented ones, too. https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/K...-Brake-Kit-ALL-STAINLESS-w-SS-Hubs_p_968.html Not in stainless: https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Ko...-Disc-Brake-Kit-ALL-Dacromet-6-Lug_p_964.html Just the rotors: https://www.boattrailerparts.com/Ko...acromet-Slip-On-Style-Replacement-_p_768.html
I don't see an issue as long as you use calipers and pads that are designed for cars. 6 lug trailer hubs are rated at 3000 lbs or better so weight shouldn't be an issue. I see here that you can get some large diameter rotors if you want up to 12-1/8 from these guys meaning that others have them most likely. Getting vented rotors doesn't seem to be an issue so one shouldn't assume that trailer rotors are non vented. https://www.trailer.parts/Hydraulic-Disc-Brakes-for-Trailers_c_739.html E trailer a popular source here has a number of 6lug rotor options https://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Tr...rm=trailer disk brake&utm_content=Disc Brakes Both of those meaning that if it is available here you can probably find it from a supplier there.
In regards to the Kodiak slip over rotors, it appears that their calipers are based on, or are at least compatible with GM calipers, so the brackets should work with GM car, or truck, depending on size, stuff. https://www.kodiaktrailer.com/wp-co.../KODIAK-CALIPER-TO-GM-REFERENCE-741-KB-10.pdf The 12" 6-lug rotors from Kodiak use the 225 calipers, as shown in the chart. Of all of their 6-lug kits: https://www.kodiaktrailer.com/produ...ets/5200-lb-6000-lb-axle-slipover-brake-sets/ The difference is the construction of the caliper bracket, and the presence or absence of a particular coating, and or in stainless steel. Caliper brackets, if you want to use them as a base to fabricate from, are par number: CMB-12-U-D, and are $35/ea on Amazon. Rotors are plain, Dacromet, E-Coat, and stainless steel, which are RTR-12, RTR-12-D, RTR-12-E, and RTR-12-SS, respectively. They are (cannot find plain), $85.48, $76.63, and $290.85/ea. on eTrailer. Shop around, prices vary greatly. The center bore is 3.6"
Thanks for all of the replies. I can see the advantages with ventilated disks. If I find hubs that don't have a disk I would go that way. I guess when I put the example up it was just one I found. It was getting my head around if there were any reasons that trailer hubs were not a good idea. I will see what options are out there as like everything, the more you look the more you find. Steve
I know you folks have some strict laws down there, so doing this out of as much off-the-shelf stuff as possible might help you get past some of those.
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