Technical Advantage of splitting rear wishbones?

I’m building a ‘32 from scratch and was wondering if there is an advantage of splitting the rear wishbone and widening the front mounting points? Also, how many leafs are people using in the rear to get the right spring rate for a rolling bones style car?

This is where I’m at on my build. The rear end, leaf, torque tube and trans are parts from a 1941 ford.

 

The rear radius rods are to brace the axle tubes, nothing else. The torque tube takes care of everything else. Leave what you have alone, as it is supposed to be.

This would be a negative and screw up the articulation of the suspension.

 

Leave it as is...

 

As said, if you are keeping the torque tube don't touch the wishbone setup.

 

Looking at what your setup is with an original transmission, no need the split the front either. Others may think differently depending what you want for drivability. Looks like a nice project!


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The only thing you might gain is an easier route for your exhaust. Been working like that for almost 80 years, leave it alone.

 

The only real reason to split the rear Radius rods Is if you have converted to open drive . You have not so leave them where they are.

 

Thanks everyone, I’ll keep the rear suspension the way I build it.
The front wishbone I split for a couple of reasons. First, it is a 1941 wishbone and front axle which was too long to use on a ‘32 frame. Second, I’m going with a suicide front end to get the front down.

 

Suggestion here. Cut in a model A rear cross member now. If in case you get a notion of installing a Quick Change in the future. Be easier to install in future if you decide to.

 

Your engine is to low in the front. The carburetor will be on the wrong angle. JMO

 

I set the engine level with the center section of the frame. I was thinking about raising the front motor mounts.

should the motor be level with the front part of the frame?

 

Engine to low. I've built a lot of FH chassis and I like the bottom pan rail to be parallel with the front frame rails. I usually put the weld on side mount brackets even with the top of the frame rails. For mounting wishbones in the side of the rails I use some neat machined bungs from R-Jays Speed Shop in Missouri. Leave the rear bones as they are.

 

Put the engine mounts level with the top of the frame as Krylan32 said . Place an intake with a carburetor on and you will see why. The top of the carburetor should be level.

 

English grammar
Going to town two times is too many.

 

I have ‘39 water pumps. Is that going to work if I move the mounts up flush with the top of the rails? Right now they are 1 1/4” down.

 

Hi Tony put a intake with a carburetor on and jack the engine up until the top of the carburetor is level. that would be where the mounts should be. Is the car going to have a drastic rake ?

 

I did that. I leveled the frame and then leveled the engine. The carb flange is level with the block.

but I might have to level the rails at the engine bay then level the motor? I want the same rake as 3w Larry’s coupe.

 

Hot rod frames aren’t “level“. They are set at a rake. If you are so keen on getting your carbs level, make sure the frame is at finished rake when doing so.

 

Thanks guys. I’ll raise the motor mounts up even with the top of the frame rails.

 

The motor mounts should not be but welded to the boxing plate.