Projects Jumping in the deep end

I’m picking it up again tonight so I’ll tell you shortly... right now trying to figure out what size these spark plugs are. They’re huge! I have gone up as large as 18mm and am now out of deep sockets. Any ideas before I make another trip to O’Reilly’s?

 

I would say your plugs are probably 13/16" put those metric sockets away.

 

7/8" maybe?From a place called The H.A.M.B.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...oo-small-i-dont-know-what-size-i-need.165912/

 

Here are the two tags I found:



And here is the bottom of the oil pan - it has the circular clean out @Marty Strode mentioned:

 

Tags are a good sign and the truck pan with the cleanout makes it much easier to do a quick cleaning before you try to start it.

 

Here is another rebuild tag.



There are two plugs I can’t remove because my socket is too long to fit between the head and what I am assuming is an oil filter housing. However...



Cylinder 3 has a ton of gunk built up on the plug and seemingly inside. All the other sparkplugs are clean:



All sparkplugs came out easily without the use of penetrating oil. I have gone ahead and added Mystery Oil to the cylinders I can access.

 

Use a Box end wrench to get the plugs under the Oil Filter.

 

Yep... my tools are 99% just whatever I've picked up at flea markets and garage sales so I went rooting around and couldn't find one that'd work. Those are stuck there for now.

Looks like I need to replace the belts. They crumbled and have gone slack.

 

Accumulating tools as you need them is what alot of us did and do. A little at a time and you'll be tripping over tools before you know it.

 

You don't need belts on it unless your going to add a radiator and coolant. It can run in short stints without any water.

 

Like others have already stated, nothing metric on this stuff. Works out good because like you said, many standard size tools and sockets can be found at yard sales, ect. Everything new is Metric, makes the standard stuff cheap to score!

I'm excited for you, hopefully it's still pretty fresh from it's rebuild.

 

I figured nothing would be metric but I was just trying everything in my toolbox at that point!

The tag I posted above says "Rebuilt by Genaut". The only reference to a company by that name that I can find is on this page which says it became part of GPC/NAPA: https://www.waymarking.com/waymarks...to_Parts_Remanufacturing_Plant_Morganfield_KY

The page mentions that Genaut Industries was a remanufacturer, so that seems to make sense. Is this a known name?

The gunk/oil on the no. 3 plug probably means the head gasket has failed, I think?

Other than that: I can see all the valves opening and closing (except in the two that I can't reach but I'll assume those are fine for now) and can even hear the oil pump pulling oil through the engine as I turn it over. Should be OK to run for a bit even if the head gasket is done just to see if she wants to run?

 

No, there is no way for oil to get from the gallery into the cylinder through the head gasket. I'd say an oily cylinder might mean bad valve guides or rings. But it still might just run fine.

Don't go tearing pistons out until you've prepared yourself with some rebuild costs. Check prices on bearings and pistons. Not the same as a small block Chevy. If you can have fun now with a running engine (even if it smokes), just enjoy it til the whole car is done. Then you can spend the bucks later to rebuild it again, and put a hot cam in at the same time.

 

The gunk on the plug means there is gunk on the plug.
It is a little early to jump to that conclusion. Oil fouling can be a culprit. It has set for a long time. Needs to be woken up.
Running it will give you an idea of general condition.
Get you an oil gage on it.
Get it on a stand
You are going to have to get the ignition wired
Get some push water to it
mmm, 6 or 12 volt discussion is coming up I suspect. No reason to purchase a 6 volt battery to have it sit. Let's think about this

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Wire it up as 12 volt. The starter won't care. And 12 volt coils are all over the place.

 

Done tinkering with it for tonight.

I need to figure out the wiring. This is honestly the most daunting part to me, electricity is next to magic in my mind.

 

Wireing is Nothing for what your going to do. A Batt. a pair of jumper cables a ballast resister and a couple pieces of wire with alligator clips on each end. Given the dist is doing it's job and you have plug wires and a coil it'll fire and run. You don't need no key switch, starter solenoid, no charging system, heck you don't even need exhaust pipes as long as there is some kind of manifolds on it. I would be sure to mount an Oil pressure gauge though.

 

I've got a 12 volt coil, a good hot 12 volt battery, compression tester, meter, and probably most anything to help you get that engine checked out and started. As mentioned before I can help get you a stand built even if it just a wood crate to set it on. If you'd like a hand with it, let me know.

 

As I remember RMONTY you built a nice stand for your 6 shooter. Does it still have a motor on it? If empty wouldn't take much to set a Flathead on it.

 

Yes the 235 is still sitting on it, but I have quite a bit of square tubing back in the scrap pile. I should be able to get trevorsworth fixed up with something for sure.....

 

Oil on a plug could be as simple as a bad spark plug wire. Simple.

 

The books by Vern Tardell are a priceless source of info, not only on Flathead engines, but chassis and suspensions, transmissions and anything else about old Fords.

 

That doesn’t look good. Hope it’s not important.

 

That just covers your starter gear and shaft. Probably just patch and weld or replace.

 

I've seen that damage before. First time was in a Shop. The Bendix drive had come apart, that kind of damage was a result of. Second time was on a core motor that had been sitting outside. Water had gotten inside and froze. Split the can. The tear in the can isn't a big deal but if the Bendix is in pieces you might want to know that now rather than when your ready to connect a Battery to it.

 

Alright, thanks. Was a little worried it was part of the starter itself.

Busted a spark plug on accident when a chain went taut.

Getting ready to remove the oil plug. My air conditioner went out so it's hotter in my house than it is in the garage right now so that's a big motivator to work on this thing tonight...

I'll see if I can get a light up in there through the tear before I pull the starter out.

 

I thought that the big trucks, like a F-6, had the big flathead 337 cu in Lincoln....am I wrong.. ?

 

Drained the oil. Looks very clean - no chunks or metal shavings.



There is a nice thick sludge on the inside of the plug cap though...

 

The two bolt heads on the front of the starter are actually long bolts that go all the way through the starter and hold it to the bellhousing. When you remove them they also allow the starter to kinda come apart. Just loosen them and slide them about an inch out. Then you need to tilt the whole starter inward to get the Bendix around the ring gear. It's a tight fit.

 

Yeah and don't lose those bolts. there a PIA to find. I would remove the starter next after seeing that damage to make sure you an operation starter.