After much angst, found my clutch release shaft ( which holds the Tranny fork ) only rotating maybe 10 degrees for many reasons. One reason the equalling shaft bracket was cracked, had no seal or spring so was too close to the bracket. So tight I had to take the bolts out of the bracket to remove equalizer arm. Question, is this equalizer always do tight or has anyone every cut 1/4” out of the equalizer arm and rewelded it? My 40 has lots of mods and I see someone ground down crossmember to give linkage more clearance. Car has the original tranny with a 53 8BA rebuild. All else is fitting, normals.
I just took 2 1/2 " out of one and re-welded it to fit between the frame and bellhousing on my 59AB powered 27 T. If you're going to cut and re-weld yours, I suggest that you do what I did. Make a double bevel on the parts you're going to re-weld and use two runoff tabs on either side of the weld. Get your parts lined up and tack the tabs to both parts. Start your weld on one tab and finish on the other. Clean the weld, turn the part over and grind the new weld to clean metal. Run your second pass where you just ground, starting on one tab and finishing on the other. If you do that, you will have solid metal all the way through. I used 3/32 E7018 and let the weld cool between passes. When you're done, cut the tabs off and clean up the weld. Does your equalizer shaft have any movement at the clevis that pins to the clutch arm coming from the bellhousing? My equalizer bar moves in and out at that connection maybe an eighth of an inch on my 46 Merc. That's how much movement I expect to get on the T.
561, you are most kind. Measured mine today in mock up. Raised the support bushing by one 5/16 nut to not gall the frame edge, off .5 inches so will be meeting Mr. Tig professional welder tomorrow as I no longer have my tools. Going to have him rotate about 10 degrees to pick up more throw. We are doing this on the old arm with a new one on order. I don’t mind paying a guy for two setups to get it dead nuts. As I said, your post is extremely helpful, thank you Sir. the builder of this used a 53 engine and maybe tranny. I am not sure why I am .5” too tight on a stock frame and body? Your thoughts? best,
I think it's pretty normal to have to unbolt the bracket to remove the shaft. You could also try loosening the transmission mounts and seeing if you can bump the tail of the trans towards the passenger side a bit. I'd be careful reworking what Ford designed. It should all work together without much changes even in a hot rod.
I found this entertaining at the least. You young guys crack me up! Why do you think Henry used bolts on the frame bracket? He riveted everything that never needed to come off. If that shaft is 1/4" to long you better be looking to find why your trans is that far off to the Left side of the Chassis.
In re reading all this it sounds like your just shooting in the Dark. Your opening Title says 40 Ford Delux. I think it normal to think that's what your working with and all parts connected. Then you let us in that the Motor is a 1953 and Possibly the same trans. Sounds like you have No Clue as to what you have or how to go about making things work as a package. Your asking for our Thoughts and that is mine. If you actually want help give us all the info you have to start with and if you don't know what things are at least post photos of them so you actually get some help, Not just more guess work and shots in the Dark.
You can't. But I don't think you've met one yet. We are just trying to decipher what you have with the little info you gave us. We know what old Fords are supposed to look and work like. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_trans-pics/Flathead_Clutchassy_1940-48_85hp.jpg
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