Technical Steering brackets and split wishbone dilema

HAMB friends, I have a technical question concerning my steering brackets while trying to run a split stock Model A front wishbone. I ordered a deep drop set of steering brackets from Classic Street Rod MFG. I thought for sure they would work for my needs, but as seen in the pictures I am still facing a clearance issue. I know I can cut out the wishbone and run the steering through the wishbone, but would like to just clear it. Can you run the steering rods and tie rod ends from the bottom going up and maybe drill and add a castle nut and cotter pin? Not sure if you can run the ball joint upside down. never seen this, but first thought is no due to the rubber wouldn't seal very well that way. Looking to see if anyone ran into a similar issue with the deep dropped brackets. Would rather not heat and bend them. I was planning on trying to use the old Model A ball and threaded socket steering rod, but this complicates that idea as well. I tried a shorter drop steering bracket as well, but had concern running above the wishbone and under the frame. Concern is due to the suspension movement between the wishbones and the flat front crossmember reduced clearance. Just looking to see what ideas you all have or suggestions. Thank you

 

If Im reading it all right your problem is running the tie rod from spindle to spindle,and having the tie rod clear.If the spindle has the tapered hole on top for the rod end ,and you want it on the bottom all it takes is running the correct tapered reamer up from the bottom half way through the hole.You then can put the rod under the wish bones.

 

Some after market steering arms are tapered on both sides to run the tie rod ends either on top or underneath the steering arm.. I have tapered the top on stock steering arms before with no problems.. I've also laid the tie rod on the bottom garage step and the cement and jumped on the middle to give a slight bend to the tie rod.. What ever works.. You could also move the wishbone up at the rear bracket but you have to pie-cut the wishbone at the front to keep your caster correct.. That's probably what I would do..

 

Stupid question, could you swap the bones side to side and turn them over? Looks like you might gain a inch and a half by doing that.

 

Your pics are too far away so I can't see what you have mocked up there, but the answer is it's no problem with the rod end pointing up. The rubber will seal just fine. You aren't driving under water. If your arms aren't already tapered halfway from top and bottom, you can find a 7 degree taper and do it. If you think you need to bend the arms, make sure they are forged, not cast. Cast iron can't be bent.

I've been playing with some vintage ball and socket rod ends on the latest project, and they are a lot of work. Since you already have modern rod ends on the wishbones, I'd probably just use that style on the tie rods too.

 

Never a stupid question. I actually tried to flip over. It doesn't give me enough clearance to do that either. Thank you

 

Sorry for the distance on the pictures. Was a last minute idea to take them and ask about the issue before I pushe dit back into the garage. Thank you for the suggestions and advice on the ball joint. I am not exactly sure if the steering brackets are tapered or straight cut. Will have to figure that out. If there is no issue running the ball joint upside down then I am ok with that. It will be full fendered when done and not in your face. I was just concerned I would go through ball joints because of water and dirt getting past the rubber seal.

 

Thank you fro the ideas. Sounds like I can run the steering rod ball joints from the bottom. I will probably do that

 

Thank you sounds like the plan and yes great clarification on my issue. Upside down is the go forward plan

 

If the steering arms are drilled with a straight hole, they won't work with a tie rod end. A straight hole only works with a bolt, like through a Heim end. I don't recommend Heim ends.

I've tapered many Ford spindle arms halfway from the other side to flip the tie rod to the other side. Thousands of miles later they are working fine. I bought my tapered reamer from Speedway Motors years ago. It was expensive then, but has paid for itself in the last twenty years.

 

I had the same issue with that dropped steering arm on my 34 Ford...Ended up turning the split wishbone over for more clearance and and modifying it for the proper caster....

 

You can also get a nice taper with a uni bit believe it or not. Just gotta go slow and sneak up on the fit. Samiyam and I have both suggested this in the past.

 

The 37-40 spindles were designed with the ends installed upside down from the factory.

 

I'm running the flat steering arms on my A with stock split wishbones and a 4" dropped axle and the tie rod runs above the wishbones. I ran into the same problem you had and this worked best for me, best picture I could find .