Hot Rods for a 2in roloc what grit do you use for paint removal?

I'm using a 2" Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Brown Coarse Surface Conditioning Disc to remove autobody paint for spot welding. I think it is a 50 grit. Maybe I should go to a medium or fine.

 

I use 80 for most things like that, but I know guys who prefer 24 and 36.

 

50-80
those others remove to much metal in my opinion

 

When working on the thin tin as you do yes the 24/36 is a little rough..

But myself I prefer the 24 grit and get the 3 inch, Run the edge off (never seem to get the center used) and then put it on the 2 inch and cut down to the usable part, Cut in a stop sign shape for nice crisp edges.. Been doing this for years.
Even use the 8 inch disc from grinder cut to fit your hand grinder that is 5 inch.. Keep recycling down to nothing..



The bigger one started as a 8inch on the grinder.

 

on my test panel I used a 36 grit flapper and I can see the scrape marks. I don't like it.

Has anyone tried the Scotch-Brite™ Roloc™ Surface Conditioning Discs? I'm not sure what grit these would be. It comes in course, medium, fine and very fine.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...293241340&preselect=8711017+3294857497&rt=rud

 

If ya wanna strip paint get yourself some of these...the best tool for the job

 

You's guys are pretty picky. I mark the hole for rosette weld and use anything close to grind the paint on parent part. Plenty of times I dont want to remove the panel and refit it, I use a scratch awl thru the drilled hole and scrape away as much paint as I can from the parent part to allow an arc and burn that F'r in.

 

That would be my choice on steel. Those will remove less metal than any sanding/grinding disc while still being aggressive enough to quickly remove paint. Two downsides IMO; one is if you run them too fast they tend to melt and smear onto the base metal. A fresh disc will clean that right up. Two, you'll go through more than a few. I use the hell out of those things and buy in bulk from these guys.. http://www.keenabrasives.com/Surface Conditioning Discs - Type R.htm

 

Do you use course, medium or fine for paint removal?

 

Depends on the base material. Steel base with a automotive top coat paint, I'd use brown or maybe maroon. Rattle-can paint on steel, probably a blue.

Softer materials like aluminum, die-cast and brass, go finer by at least one grade. I absolutely love these for repairing/restoring/prepping aluminum for polishing. HUGE time-saver....

 

I find that both course and medium remove the factory paint quickly. The factory paint is an old enamel. With paint removal using a roloc and Surface Conditioning Discs should I expect scratches in the base metal?

 

ANY abrasive will leave scratches and remove base material to a certain extent, but surface conditioning discs when compared to an 'equivalent grit' sanding/grinding disc will do it much less. They're named the way they are because they are designed to limit their action to the surface only as much as possible. If you're looking for a scratch-free surface, say trying to remove paint from plated items, use a chemical strip.

With all that said, if you're trying to remove paint from large areas they're not the best choice. But for small or difficult-to-get-into spots, they work great.