Well here we go again My first car in high school (1980) was a 1959 ford, loved the car drove it every where even long trips longest one was from Texas to Minnesota and the to California and back to Texas. Took 2 weeks and had a blast. That one was 2 tone Black and silver, had a 223 straight 6 with 3 on the tree and over drive got 20 mpg on the road and lots of attention. I had looked for the last 5 years in the Dallas - Fort Worth area for one to build and either they were total rust buckets or so over priced made no sense to buy them or worse yet had the flat rear glass (T-Bird) roof on them. So expanded my search and found this one in California . It started off life in South Dakota and got hauled to California 2 years ago, by the last owner. I drove out the and for $1200 I had a descent start. This is what I started with. as you can see no rust on front sheet metal or roof sadly the rocker were bad but a very good start I hauled it back to Texas and it was time to start under side got bead blasted (I like Glass bead over sand any day). found some minor rust through in the lower quarter panels and the bad dent in front of the rr tire so the easiest fix was 2 rear quarters and front right quarter Then it was on to bead blasting the truck ,no surprises solid as a rock so a little prep and some primer and what a change I done the body work on the roof and front sheet metal and shot it a 2 tone green to see how I would like it ( I am parshell to Omaha Orange) and was not sure how I would like it. Next it was time to get the floors done first I glass bead blasted the floors and treated them I ordered some rear patch panel and boy what a disappoint $90 thrown away so made my own . got out the bead roller and a little welding some seam sealer and primer and its ready for the dynomate inside does not need to look great as it get coverd the under side is where the hard work is camera is dead so will show the under side later
This works for carb engines as an alternative to a mech or rail pump I do not like the rail pump set up(do not last long) and the in tank set up are very price Here is some shots of my in tank set up I have been using since 1990 the first one for 52 Buick it shows the nylon hat and washer needed to pass through the flange this setup shows the one I built for the ford around $50 including a new AC Delco pump the nylon pc can be bought at ace hardware stores for $2. the wire inside the tank can be used from an old sending unit (you can get it from shop dumpsters) or buy the price stuff around $4 a foot or select a pump that comes with them EATHER WAY USE WIRE FOR FUEL Submersion hard to see but there is also 2 O-rings one on to and bottom This set up can also be used for a carb set up in stead of mechanical or frame mounted some Vegas, Monza ,and chevettes used a intake pump rated at 4 psi and 10 gph get rid of the grown and the pump last forever. I also detailed the instrument cluster buffed the lens with a head light kit. before buffing the lens and after buffing HINT (((((do not use the sealant that comes with the kit it make it fuzzy)))) and put back together a little paint and elbow grease makes a big different. well the tank is back in need to do the fuel lines next this tank is from speedway motors it is made by Bob drake and has the provision for elect pump right down to the sump in the bottom of the tank, also stock pickup with a sock on the end for a mechanic pump its a very nice set up a side not this tank will work in the 58 Edsel Pacer and Ranger you just have to lengthen the neck about 1 1/2 inches (use the neck from the factory tank) this is what I put in my Edsel Some shots of the under side note the trans cross member even set up the emergency brake as stock. I also wrap my pipes to cut down on heat transfer to the floors to help cool the inside of the car still have the front 2 foot to do, ran out of rap again . and make shield for the mufflers this shot shows the 90 mustang mount fits nicely on the stock uncut frame pads and the clearance around the brogues power steering box using bk stainless headers I do not know if any one noticed but here is a shot of a tilt column with 3 on the tree shifter pain to build top cover is not on I was waiting for the turn switch you wont see tis any where else I wish I had taken more pictures it was a changing these 2 show the top cover it is steel with fiberglass filler the turned on a lathe it is the section the tilt lever and turn signal lever go through paint cup work out nice to build up 1st time build
Well now, this is really strange... When I got on the HAMB, but not signed in, the pix show up great on the iPad If I sign in, the pix don't appear, just Like the 59, you're doing some involved work there. Great job on the gage cluster lens.
Starting the fuel line love this flaring tool I bought 2 years ago save me money ever time I use it. It does the normal 45% flairs, GM fuel filter swages , Ford fuel filter swages, and metric and sae bubbles and metric flairs cost $250 2 years ago but has been well worth the investment before I bought it I was using fuel filter repair lines to build my supply line with a gm filter 2-1foot repair lines $35 and 2 unions $12 pulse 2 more spots to leak this wix filter 33481 works on any system from 1 PSI to 80PSI it is made for 90 GM cars, and trucks. It uses a special swage and o ring . It out last and out filters the plastic filters
MAYOLCARS FYI I am in the proses of getting the car drivable and all rust repairs done,so I have a solid foundation to start with. I did not know a custom needed to be finished to be in the section I did mark it as a Project . at present the 8 birds have been shaved, it has duel rear mount antennas, fount has been dropped 3 ", rear 2", and it has skirts these mods were done since parts had to be changed any way ,. As for the rest of the customs and mods hang around and see. Most customs are built 1 mod at a time and I do like driving the hell out of my cars as I build them. No garage queens are built at my shop sincerely Gasser1 a H.A.M.B. Alliance member since 2011
Thanks gasser1. I will watch. I want to customize my 59 but am having trouble figuring out what to do and I have liked customs for 50 years. I drive mine as I work on them too.
what can I say I hate doing fuel lines with the body on the frame, but being my car I chose to not pull the body to save some time. Here is the fun part (HAHAHA) I run the lines clamping them in place with the duel line clamps and some large jay vice grips its never as clean looking as doing it with the body off Trying to rout full length lines around stuff is like doing a jig saw puzzle. Next its time to mount the fuel filter whether its steel or plastic it should have some support.Here is a simple cheep one to build all you need is 3" of exhaust tubing that the filter will fight in snuggly and an exhaust hanger and 1 hose clamp cut the tubing to where is goes around the filter 3/4 of the way make sure you clean the burse and round the corners as you can see the filter will snap in to the exhaust pipe if not squeeze the pipe down a little. next cut the hanger at the large hole take off about 3/4 of the hole (this levees room for the hose clamp to go through when you weld it to the tubing) Note my clamp is not long enough I need to order more hose clamps. Install the filter on the fuel lines and then the filter holder and weld it or screw it to the frame install the O-rings tighten the filter and the hose clamp . this filter will go 40,000 miles before it needs to be changed. If for some reason you run fuel that requires it to be changed more often you may want to make a flex connect on one side of the filter. I never had to other wise just levee around 6" between the filter and where you clamp it to the frame and wiggle the filter in. This filter works on most systems from 0- 80PSI will flow 250 GPH a cheep in tank pump will cost under $50 Running a duel line system with an intake pump will help greatly with vapor lock on carbureted vehicles. Just run the supply from the tank to the filter *** Then to a regulator with a return circuit ** from there one line to carburetor the other returns back to the tank . Place the regulate as close to the carburetor as possible this give you cool fuel as the fuel in the line is being recirculated all the time now I just need to install flex lines to the engine and tank when part come in
I will be getting back to the 59 in a copal of weeks had raccoons get in my 53 setting in the car port and had to get it sealed up got it to this point and now need to finish some of the under side so it runs then the 53 will go back in storage till the 59 is done
the 53 and 50 Ford are back in storage so its back on the 59. I will see if I can get it done this time. Got the inside shoot with some color it will need to dry a few day (I should have done it before I set it up the last time) next the wiring so I can get it fired up I will have to pull and rebuild the brake pedal assembly and drop the clutch pedal ,rebuild the emergency brake assembly and vents Install the Dynomat pull both harnesses the main car harness and the unnamed one to make it run. also trying to install a set of ball AC vents from 62 Cadillac in the dash look like they will work in the corners and need to find a center vent Any one know what will fit the one from the Cadillac not shaped quit right.
It is a REAL pleasure to see someone who shows us :"Here's how I did it.", instead of whining :"It can't be done." We need more people that see a problem as a challenge instead of a stop sign. "Outside the Box" thinking is lots more fun! I don't know you, so Please take this as a compliment : I'd guess that you don't see your solutions as being especially innovative, just a way to" get it done"; most 'creative' people see their answers as not being special at all, just a logical way to get there. GOOD JOB!
Thanks: dave 62 pb: and bobwop drtrcrV-8: I have always liked a challenge it keeps me on my toes. I try to look at each problem as an adventures, I guise it helps that I can bale on one project and jump on another and think about the problem as long as I need.
Here's mine last May when I did the Fat Mat on the interior. Nice stuff to work with and 1/2 the $$ of Dynamat, unless you already have it.
Keep up the good work! (Translation : I like to 'steal' your ideas!!LOL) Actually, it's all part of the learning process : How did someone else solve a problem that I have, or, more importantly, how did they avoid a problem that I haven't seen yet, but will, based on the 'direction' that I am going with my 'build'. Again : Thanks for your input!!
bobss396 I used to use the Eastwood brand but when I put it in a 69 ford pu door it melted. First time I ever had it happen. Also the only time I did not shoot the inside of the door with Nasson fulcry 2 over the tractor supply primer. I tried an experiment with it and found that if it is put over Tractor supply paint with hardener it turn to goo and runs the Dynamate does not. I use the tractor supply paint in doors and inside of rockers and fender well because it stay liquidly longer the most and will get in all the seam to seal the metal I also use it on the under side of cars (satin black) sticks to anything. so I have started using the dynamite brand for now. The Eastwood brand on Nasson full cry does fine. (This is what I shoot on the in side over Tractor supply Red oxide primmer ) . My 59 is getting Dynamate extreme . If you do a 59 ford (probably 57-59) make sure you do not cover the plug at the top center fire wall(see the green). The backside of hood latch. You may need axes to this if the hood cable breaks, knock the rubber plug out and you can pop the hood other wise your screwed. after the Dynamate I install Jute with foil backing for a little extra sound deading and insulation. It is glued on with 3m yellow spray glue and then the edges are taped with the foil tape made for duct work (Not duct tape) the roles of foil tape can be bought at Lowes, home depot ,ace . cut the clutch pedal off and put new bushing in the brake pedal and a NOS power brake pad. You cant see it now but also installed the vacuum dump valve for the cruise control a 7" duel diafram boaster fits fine ,I have an 8" duel some where I will probably wind up with when done if there room with the wiper motor. I will have to see if a new port unit will work the stock one will not clear the intake manifold. next time for wiring harnesses
built a pass through for the air filter box through the fender well in to the fresh air plenums since it no longer is used for the passenger compartment shot through the fender well shot of the connector box I am using a stock air box from a 90 mustang to feed the engine it set in the square hole and now the fun of running the wiring
I'll say it again, nice work. I went with the single-layer of mat, on the inside of the roof too. That held up over a very hot summer. I put a new plug for the hood access in (Ace Hardware). The firewall mat allows access to it. I used a Kwik Wire kit, made up a mounting plate to locate the fuse panel to the floor. I own a machine shop so I make whatever I need. There's not a ton of real estate to mount the fuse panel but mine is out of the way.
I mounted the fuse box for the main harness just to the right of the column by the fresh air hole the other one will go between the ac box and dash on the kick panel if these room wont know forshur till the ac gets here. main harness is Speedway second is painless got a very good deal on it. I ordered a roll of fatmat like you use to see how I like it
I would love to see an update to this thing to. I have a huge love for this era ford. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It’s coming along I just keep getting side tracked. Still shooting for September for being on the road. This 40 Chevy has tied me up the last 5 weeks View attachment 4761898 Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B. I
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