Got an occasional loud top end tick in the old Binder, 1964 with a 345. Happens mostly on startup which made me think it was a lifter collapsing but I am also noticing it commencing while driving down the road. Comes and goes. Maybe a valve sticking? Doesn't hickup or loose power while it's ticking. Thinking some Marvel Mystery in the crankcase? Maybe some in the gas.
Put ATF in the oil and run 50 miles or so and drop the oil and put in fresh...the ATF is high detergent and will break the lifter lose... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I’m going to try that on my O/T Ranger daily driver. Thanks for the tip! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I was taught to use ATF for that problem in 1956 when my new Chevy had a lifter noise been using it ever since
Back when I was a kid and Olds Rocket was the hot st up. I would use Bardal for that. I think that is what it was made for. Worked.
I don't know, never had the valve covers off, know zilch about Binders other than the tuneups I've done. It's the old local fire truck that was retired last year, now lives with me for parade and event duty. But it's quiet as a mouse most of the time so I don't think it's an adjustment problem. When it ticks it's loud, like .050 lash or something. The ATF trick sounds good, how much ya figure? I'm just worried it's going to jump a pushrod or something more serious. And it's about the last thing I need to tear into.
I went the conservative way with the 352 in my just OT one ton. It started acting up after over wintering last year. I used a dowel rod and my ear to figure out which lifter was not pumping up. I let it warm up slightly. Shut down, pulled the rocker cover and used a squirt can to shoot/dribble ATF down the push rod hole. I let it sit an hour, fired it up and it's been fine. The top side of the engine looked clean but I didn't want the ATF to break up any sludge potentially hiding anywhere else.
Very nice truck. I'm guessing it only drives occasionally and not at faster speeds. Therefore it's a lot more likely to have little issues like this. Just be happy until the carb starts acting up.
Thanks, correctamundo! Rarely ever got a long stretch at highway speed, and not likely too anymore. I did take it out on the fourth with flags a flyin'. It has a Holley 2bbl, likely a replacement before I came along. Goofy one, has the mixture screws in the back, opposite the float bowl. Still wondering how much ATF you guys use. Quart? Pint?
I read many years ago to add a quart of ATF. I actually did this in my off-topic small car a week ago on the return leg of a long road trip. The dipstick showed on the low mark, so I thought it was a good time to top up with ATF. The oil came out very dirty, as did the rinse I performed (biodiesel).
Nope, that’s the original carburetor. I had a 1963 C-1100 with a 266 and a Holley two barrel. I kept the carb and sold the truck. My nephew rebuilt it as his first carb and it’s set up the same with rear mixture screws. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, one quart...drive and then drop oil and filter...50 to 75 miles should do it... Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
ATF is effective I've no doubt, but Marvel's is made for the purpose. 4oz. per 10 gallons of fuel. It does work to keep lifters and rings from gum and carbon that causes sticking, and seems to keep carbs from gumming up and rubber parts healthy too. It is just the stuff for something that sits unused a lot. It is good "fogging" oil, too.
MMO is what I use, a pint added to the oil should do it. I worked with a guy who bought an old Mercury and that had a valve tick in it, he did the MMO thing and it cleared up in a few days.
Was looking for some bars leak this morning and came across this way at the back of the shelf (note dust!). For sticky valves and lifters. Gotta be 10-20 years old, wonder if it goes bad?
The Jalopy Journal
