Technical 3 Deuce Fail ?

Admittedly I am very much a Stromberg 97 / Holley 94 / 3 Deuce carb setup complete novice. It seems to me that carbs should lean forward, not rearward. Only thing that even remotely makes sense is that this manifold is intended for boat use. But what are the options for using it in a car ? It has the expected Edelbrock script and C-357 B.

 

You are going to have a very aggressive rake. HRP

 

a- for effort here hotrodmudder, but 44 inch mudders out back and low rider 14 - 650 fronts are not in the planned image

 

They have made wedge spacers for these for decades.

 

Even with wedge spacers machine work is required to correct the studs. Looks to be 7-8 degrees just to put them level.

 

I've been on hills with a steeper angle than that. Don't remember the carbs really caring all that much, and if they did they kept it to themselves...

 

Looks like an intake for a boat that sets the engine in the boat backwards with the rear of it raised about that much.

I'm thinking that they ran the prop drive off the front of the crank to have the right rotation for the prop.

 

down hill racing?

 

Mill it flat then weld up the stud holes. Then re-drill for new stud holes. Best option is to get a new manifold.

 

I had 3x2 flathead intake with those spacers (all vintage) was drilled (only machine work) with Holley 94’s. All good.

 

Don't think it will make a lot of difference. How the float behaves is the key thing. Easy to check.

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I had a manifold like that years ago it was set up for a speedboat not street friendly at all. The time , effort and money involved to build up the manifold or machine it flat isn't worth it. Very strong possibility you could end up wrecking the manifold if you haven't done that sort of work before. Would strongly recommend buying a proper street manifold.

 

If you have access to a mill, rough mill it flat, drill and tap the holes for 3/8” pipe. Get some square drive pipe plugs, loctite them in. Finish mill the entire surface, and re-drill and tap the holes at the correct angle.
Welding the holes would work, but machining after welding doesn’t always go so well, as the material is now soft in the area.
The pipe plug trick works really well for correcting damaged/ mis-placed holes.

 

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Mr48chev is most on it. Some boats running a "V" drive have the engine mounted water pump forward, angled down in front to allow a short shaft attached to the harmonic balancer to the V drive, second shaft from the V drive out the bottom of the boat, under the oil pan, to drive the prop. I guess this is common in flat bottom performance boats.

All this is well and good, but now, what to do about it ? Boat guy I spoke with says finding a boat guy that wants it is rather remote, ebay would offer the best chances.

Machining the mounting surface flat or some angle forward will work, there is enough meat to get this done. But welding up the holes and re tapping is less desirable. Solid aluminum pipe plugs are available and will hold a thread much better. So I think the loctite / epoxy is the better option and I do know a guy......

 

you could machine it flat and just have keen-certs installed,