Can anyone tell me if a 53 235 was solid or hydraulic lifters? also why is there two cams available, one for standard and another for powerglide? We want to replace the cam in a fresh rebuild and not certain wether to use solid or hydraulic lifters. This motor was originally a powerglide but going in pickup with 3on the tree.
Not to me . Not yet. I've been researching this here for for about a week, but I still don't understand why. OK, I've read that a 235 with hydraulic lifters were used with automatic (PowerGlide) transmissions and a 235 with mechanical/solid lifters were sold with standard transmissions. But couldn't they be swapped? Hydraulic lifters on a standard trans, for example. I ask because I have a '51 Chevy Styleline Deluxe with a 216. I want to replace it with a 235 and keep my "three on the tree" transmission. So, I believe that what I need is a fully pressurized 235 with solid lifters, '54-'58 from a truck. But if I could use a hydraulic-lifter 235, it would ease my search. Reasons for keeping "three on the tree" transmission: 1) this is my first rebuild/swap, so I'm trying to make this as easy as possible for me. 2) budget is limited, but not tiny. 3) not building a racer, just want more HP to make it up the hills on I15 to Vegas from San Bernardino. But, I'm willing to listen to any advice on replacing the 3 on the tree transmission.
Go ahead and use the hydraulic lifter engine with the 3 speed stick. Neither the engine nor the transmission will care. Chevrolet did that for marketing reasons as much as anything: Upscale car that offered freedom from shifting and frequent valve lash adjustments. There was probably a small difference in valve timing/duration to make the engine work better with the P.G. but not enough to be concerned with. I think "back in the day" guys would run solid lifters on the hydraulic cam for some performance gain but I doubt you'll notice it. The hydraulics were a kind of built in rev limiter-they would float but at a point where you shouldn't try to go any farther anyway.
Definitely keep the 3-speed. It'll be easier on the motor. Hill climbing with a powerglide's gotta be a night mare. Basically you'd just lose 2nd gear. And yes, they'll swap just the hydraulic cam is a little more mild. Like someone else said, solid lifters let you rev higher but its at that point its not worth having to adjust it because you can't really use the extra rpm. Hydraulic is overall better. You may be better off just upgrading to multi-carbs and split headers on your 216 or you could do that to the 235.
If you haven't been there already, go to the Inliners International website - inliners.org, and look at their Tech Archives. If you use the 235 with an oil pump and pressurized oil system, take a look at the post on converting to a full flow filter. You can only do this while your block is torn down for machining. The machinist needs to drill and tap two holes in the oil galley from the pump, then place a plug that diverts the oil out to the filter. Use a remote fiter kit, have a couple of lines made at the machine shop or your local Ag shop. This will only add $100 or so to your rebuild, and you won't have to use the old "bypass" type filtering. As to the old "three on the tree" out on the interstate, going up and down mountains and staying up w/ 70mph+ traffic? No way. Look at the post for converting to an S-10 or Camaro T-5 five speed. You'll have to swap to an open drive line, using a Nova, Camaro, or S-10 rear end, but you'll be able to cruise at 70 doing 1800-2200 RPM's, instead of blocking up traffic and doing 4000 RPM. A 700R4 or 200R4 auto is also possible, look for the link on there for Buffalo Ent. up in Washington. If ya really want to keep your stock rear end and enclosed driveline, look for a link to Patrick's in Casa Grande, AZ. He might have a conversion for the T-5 to replace your 3 speed. Good luck with this. Kinky6
I just realized there has been more posts on this thread so I will add my 3cents, whats going on in my case is a 1953 235 out of a power gluide car, so..it originally had hydro lifters, If you are rebuilding this engine ..first of all the cam has smaller journals than later 235s. Second, you cannot build it back with hydro because NO ONE makes a good quality hydro lifter to use! Also, (not certain) no one makes a small journal cam. The solution is to have a large journal cam made for solid lifters turned down at its journals to fit. Since im replacing the lifters to solid it only makes sense to use a cam with duration and lift made for solids. Hope this helps. Ken
Delta Cams in Tacoma, Washington can make you a cam, small or large journals. I do believe Howard Cams in California can also make you a small journal cam. I would try to find a Chevy truck 235 solid lifter engine with a large journal cam. Patrick's in Arizona also has cast replacement 235 cams for small or large journals......call for a catalog. Many of the early Chevy solid lifter cams were FORGED steel. Which used 'chilled iron' lifters. Lifters were metalurgically compatible with the hard forged cam lobes. I don't think you can find a forged cam being made in the USA today. I do think a billet steel cam could be custom made to replace a drop forged cam and probably be compatible with the original GM 'chilled iron' lifters. Most cams that are available today are a cast cam...... for replacement. My concern would be with the older style solid 'milk can' lifters... would they be compatible with with the cast cam lobes ? I don't know that answer. Maybe someone else knows that answer. Maybe, a bit of terminology from camshaft textbooks: For all intents and purposes, there were three types of cam materials: steel, hardenable cast iron or chilled iron. With few exceptions, modern cams are made from hardenable cast iron, and most youll find for vintage engines will also be of the same material. You must, however, know for sure. The reason is the cam and lifter materials have to be compatible. CHILLED IRON LIFTER - A cam tappet/lifter made from high-quality iron alloy that is heat-treated during its casting. Molten iron is poured into a honeycomb mold with a chilled steel plate at the bottom, to quench and so heat-treat the face of the lifter. This type of tappet is compatible only with steel and hardface overlay cams. CAST IRON BILLET CAM - A term to describe a camshaft that is made from a casting. The material for the casting is a special grade of iron alloy called Proferal, which is used primarily for non-roller camshafts because of its excellent anti-wear characteristics. HARDENABLE IRON LIFTERS - A cam follower made from a special high-quality iron alloy that is compatible with cast iron billet camshafts. The entire cylindrical body of a hardenable iron lifter is hard, in contrast to a chilled iron lifter with only its base hardened. CAST STEEL BILLET CAM - A camshaft made from steel alloy. It requires the use of chilled iron lifters. Cast steel billets are seldom used today in flat tappet production engines. Cams machined from solid steel billets are often manufactured for roller tappet cams for racing use. 54 Chevy Truck
Stay away from Patrick's he has ripped me and a bunch of people off I wrote to the attorney to try and recoup my money STAY AWAY is my advice!! He is supposed to have gone out of business.
I believe Patrick's is out of business. Patrick is dead and I bet he feels the heat. He ripped off so many people. This is like so many posts, ask for advice, never report the solution and outcome. Warren
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