Any one here ever sleeve these themselves? Any tips? I've got some 304 tubing and made some decent test cuts in it. I'm thinking 1" OD 15/16" bore should leave me about .03 wall. Can I just press these in (that's the current plan) - or do I need a sealer - if so what? I was initially thinking of around .001" (or a couple tenths more) press together first - cross drill - bore - hone. Any tips from those who have done this - it would be greatly appreciated. And before anyone suggests sending them out - there's no challenge there ;-) EDIT: On second thought, Press together, bore, cross drill, debur, hone - that seems to make better sense.
i have been wanting to do this for years too, so i want to mark this thread. i wondered what to do about bleeder location and line connection? just drill in there?
Hard chrome maybe? I have a aircraft honing shop next door to me and they bring stuff back to service limits with hard chrome or ceramic .All hydrolic applications on aluminum and stainless parts.There are a few places that do it,in conneticut and fla.I could get addresses and nos on monday if you wish. There maybe a local vendor also.
Looks like I'll figure this out the hard way. Nothing new there Hoggyrubber, I wondered that myself - I was considering predrilling those and install the sleeve much like a cam bearing being careful to align the holes. The other option of course is drilling afterwards - seems like a good way to snap off a bit or two. Gary, Those are good thoughts I was just looking for a DIY solution.
they have been sleeving corvette calipers and master cylinders for years. they use red locktight. also you will have to hone after pressed in as they will close up when pressed in. .001 should be good.
If they are 15/16 bore, why not just bore them to 1" and get new pistons and seals to fit? We did that on some Army truck cylinders that are not available rebuilt. I agree that if they are out there, a rebuilt set is the way to go.
As mentioned above, Find the nearest size rebuild kit, 1", 1-1/16 or 1-1/8 , bore to fit. You don't want to change bore dia too much if the master is stock for the car.
Stainless sleeved wheel cylinders also will no longer corrode internally. Would be better than new ones in the long run.
i would hate to try to align those holes! the people that do these never seem to shake loose with all the info i need. i have talked to several who overbore, that makes some people scared. not me. i have a mill and could do it, but i like the idea of no more corrosion. also it is sometime difficult to get replacement pistons, i have actually made some out of brass when the pot metal ones were too far gone. unfortunatly, you can't always buy a replacement for 10-15 bucks.
i have lined 30 chrysler cylinders with brass, they were 1-1/4" and i took them down to 1", i made the sleeves from brass pipe, slide them in and brazed the ends, then i drilled the line and bleeder holes from the outside, i used a dremel the clean up the burr left behind from drilling, no leaks and have been working fine for about one year, theres a thread on here about pressed in sleeves leaking.
Thanks for the info guys! 1950Coronet, The reason is because I've had this car for maybe 8 or 10 years and it seems like I'm fiddling with rear wheel cylinders every 2 or 3 years - I'm simply tired of fiddling with them and am looking for a solution that will hopefully last a lot longer. And yes I bought replacements for 9 bucks each - so while they're prefect I don't have much to loose if I screw one up trying to sleeve it.
This has worked for our shop. Hone the wheel cylinder and have them ceramic coated then final hone to correct finish size. This will eliminate the corrosion of the porous cast iron.
I've had several sleeved with brass. They use bushing stock. Bore the cylinder .001 smaller than the OD of the bushing. Warm the cylinder and cool the bushing to install, then bore the bushing to size.
OK I'm gonna bring this one up from the dead to hopefully help out the next person liek me who wants to try it themselves. I ended up using 304 stainless. I used a .001" press fit. I rebored and honed AFTER press fitting. I cross drilled for the bleeder AFTER press fitting. Go slow. I used Loctite - more as an insurance and assembly lube - not sure if it was needed. They've been working fine thus far - about a year now. What I would do differently. Not much however chucking up true to the bore on those crappy casting surfaces was a PITA and since you need to get them chucked up more than once - NEXT TIME I will try this: Bore out a 2- piece clamp collar to match the w/c and use them to clamp on the turned SEAL SURFACE on either end of the wheel cylinder. This way it will be easy to be true to the original bore and even easier for the second setup where you bore the tubing ID. The 304 I used had a slight seam - originally I bored everything ahead of time and just honed it to size after fitting - this was a slight PITA since it does shrink a fair amount after pressing it together - NEXT time I bore the sleeve in place and give it a much smaller hone job.
brass works fine and is way easier than stainless to work with. oversize boring is great idea as a 1/16" isn't gonna make much difference on the systems operation.
Next Time,,,maybe ,,,, make an angle plate fixture to bolt the cylinder to,,,bolted to a faceplate or bore it on a mill,,,,
I've done several in brass works great Just use Loctite. But most have been to reduce the bore when doing a disk brake conversion.
Did it many years ago on a 50 chevy 2 Ton truck because they sit so much and are leaking every time you go to use them plus when your buying one unless they have been replaced like last week they leak! SS is great but harder to work with and on most applications the vehicle is parked more of the time than driven.
We had some cylinders on a swing clutch on a crane that were no longer available. I made a pair out of brass that worked well. We sleeved the master cylinders with brass but the clearances were so tight that the wall thickness would have been marginal on the clutch cylinders. Working in a scrap yard, we had plenty of brass to use. When I bushed the master cylinders, I made the bushings .001 oversize, heated the master cylinders to 400 degrees in an oven, cooled the bushings with liquid nitrogen and just dropped them in. Once they cooled I bored the inside.
Just to update: It's been 9 years now...haven't had to touch them since I did this. THAT was the goal!!!
Nice, I gotta get with my local machinest and see about him doing mine. I've been sending out to a shop in southern ca and it takes at least two weeks to get two of them done, it works well but the time frame is killing me, it took a month last time to get 4 and a master done.
I can see some shops being reluctant to do this type of work if they think there is any way that they might be held liable if there was ever a failure of their repair. Can't say I'd really blame them.
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