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Hot Rods Ford Y Block timing issue

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Thessler, Jun 16, 2020.

  1. Thessler
    Joined: Jun 16, 2020
    Posts: 5

    Thessler

    Hi
    I have a 56 thunderbird with a 312 y block.
    I'm having confusing timming issues, if I set initial timming by a light say at 10 degrees it's very hard starting and has big time hesitation.
    If I set it with a vacuum gauge it starts great runs fine and doesn't ping, then I check it with a light and it's 35 degrees advanced at idle. Wich would put it somewhere around 70 at 3000 rpm doesn't make sense.
    Yesterday I checked if the vibration damper slipped, I brought it up to TDC and the damper showed tdc. And yes I'm timming it off the number one plug.
    When it's way advanced like that it runs fine but something isn't right.
    Any thoughts greatly appreciated , Tom
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  2. RidgeRunner
    Joined: Feb 9, 2007
    Posts: 906

    RidgeRunner
    Member
    from Western MA

    Worn timing chain?

    Pull the dizzy cap and watch the rotor as the crank is gently turned back and forth with a wrench on the crank bolt. Major delays of rotor movement after crank has started to turn indicate pulling the timing cover for a closer inspection might be worthwhile.

    Ed
     
  3. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,213

    Elcohaulic

    I would set it so it runs well. That's how I set all my cars up.. My present 454 likes 20 initial with 16 mechanical no vacuum... Don't get caught up on one size fits all generic tuning numbers for the masses..

    I always check the chain on any old motor I buy. I usually just buy one and put it on. Get the factory close link style, not those big heavy double roller deals...
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  4. AldeanFan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2014
    Posts: 894

    AldeanFan

    Distributor off one tooth?
    Distributor shaft worn?

    Put it at #1 TDC and check that the rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal on the cap.

    I would have said your damper has slipped but sounds like you verified that .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.

  5. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,412

    southcross2631
    Member

    The vacuum gauge is telling you what timing it wants, just listen to it. Don't try to force it to respond to what the light tells .
    My dad showed me that 60 years ago. I still use it on my old cars unless it's my race car and then I use the light and my e.t. slips to adjust timing and carb jetting.
     
    Desoto291Hemi and ffr1222k like this.
  6. Thessler
    Joined: Jun 16, 2020
    Posts: 5

    Thessler

    Thanks guys.
    I didn't mention it has a new chain and cam.
    I'm in full agreement with the vacuum gauge method, I'm just trying to figure out what is off. There is no way this thing should be idling at 35 degrees advanced and doesn't ping or kick back against the starter. When there is a discrepancy this big I try to figure it out.
    Thanks, Tom
     
    Truck64 and Desoto291Hemi like this.
  7. Pontmerc
    Joined: Jul 13, 2013
    Posts: 327

    Pontmerc
    Member
    from Finland

    Are you sure, you got right cylinder where to measure? In y block number one is front passenger side. Also do you have adjustable timing light? Maybe adjust knob is wrong position.
     
    46international likes this.
  8. tbirddragracer
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 129

    tbirddragracer
    Member

    If you are using the stock distributor and carburetor, the vacuum line from the carburetor to the distributor
    should be disconnected and plugged during the setting process.. Full advance of 38 degrees at 3000 rpm's should be about right.
    Ernie
     
    jimmy six likes this.
  9. razoo lew
    Joined: Apr 11, 2017
    Posts: 536

    razoo lew
    Member
    from Calgary

    Is it ACTUALLY 70 deg at 3000 rpm, did you measure it?
     
  10. TCTND
    Joined: Dec 27, 2019
    Posts: 560

    TCTND
    Member

    Is the vacuum advance plugged into the ported vacuum as it should be or into manifold vacuum which is what it sounds like?
     
  11. Kiwi 4d
    Joined: Sep 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,584

    Kiwi 4d
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    just asking the obvious, is this where you set the timing marks? From memory they are 12 pins apart. Though I doubt it would even run if the marks were lined up opposite each other.
    7C5A5E60-F296-413B-945E-B8D981184DA9.gif
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2020
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  12. ^^^^^ Yes!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,935

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If you think the damper ring has moved. Damper Doctor in Central California turns them around in a day. About $150. They come off pretty easy, at least mine did.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Sounds a little like the measurement one might have at a fast idle with vacuum advance connected, and a fast idle. This will not hurt anything and will not particularly be a factor at anything off idle.

    If starter kicks back at 10 deg. initial, it isn't going to get any better with more timing, so something is off with the way you're measuring. Disconnect and plug the vacuum advance port. Set the idle RPM to about 450 or 500 when setting the initial. Then spool it up and see where it tops out at. Y-Blocks like quite a bit of timing. 36 would be good, maybe more.
     
    tbirddragracer likes this.

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