Not sure what I’ll do with it but I am now I flathead owner. Lol. Probably build it and put it in something. No visible cracks, adjustable lifters. I’ll send it to the machine shop at some point and have it checked. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I notice it has an integrated bellhousing. What letter and numbers are reflected in the casting at the top of the bell. I have a flat head with 59L cast in that location. It has been suggested that the 59L blocks were relieved at the valve area. I have not removed the heads on my motor and wondered if yours might be a 59L. If so is the block relieved?
just a wild guess here, but its a pre 8ba block, but the pulley on the crank looks narrow belt and big clean out. that would be the 4" stroke merc crank.
As was mentioned earlier hope you have matching main bearing caps. Other wise you have to get block align bored. It's a big deal and very important. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flathead-tech-question.177392/
I see the caps on that shelf. Also, remember you probably don't want to mount that thing on an engine stand in the usual way.
Just 59 on the bell housing. I have the main caps. Supposed to be a 59AB? 1948? This is all new to me. Friend went with me that knows quite a bit about them. He said it was one of the cleanest ones he had seen. How would I Id the crank? Pistons have STD stamped on them. I assume they are replacement Std bore. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Look carefully on the bearing caps and the block to see if the caps and block were stamped with matching center punch dimples indicating their location and direction of installation. For instance: 1 center punch mark of the block and 1 center punch mark of the cap for front bearing cap. Then the same for bearing caps 2,3, and 4. Read through this info. https://www.google.com/search?q=how...e..69i57j33.5719j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Only 3 main bearing caps on a flat head. Sorry for the confusion. Main bearing and rod bearing caps should all be marked so they fit the same way as when installed by Ford.
Thanks for the comment. I have received a lot of conflicting information regarding the origins of 59L motors and their placement.
if the crank has two oil ports on each rod journal, its a later 8ba or merc. if the clean out plug on the end is big 5/8" i think, its merc, if small , like 3/8, its ford. if its the skinny 3/8 fan belt pulley, its not stock for a 59 series block
Thanks for the info. I’ll check all that stuff and see what it’s got. Are the stock heads and intake good for anything? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also, buy the best books on rebuilding a flathead Ford engine BEFORE spending tons of dough. Rebuilding a flathead is costly, especially if you pay someone else. Aslo, rebuilding a flatty to stock specs will still provide you with a peppy little engine that runs cool.. Remember, it must run cool. Make a plan and stick to it. Speed cost money. Are there an experienced flathead engine builders in your area? You don't want someone "to learn how" on your engine. Find someone who has done it before and can give you advice. Also, don't throw anything away until your engine is done and running. Peruse all this: https://www.google.com/search?q=how...69i60j69i61.8024j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
@mikeyc My particular 59L came out of a '40 Merc, had a 99A serial number stamped on it. Like yourself, I can't tell you all the stories I have heard about 59L's.
There are a couple of good machinist in the area. I would actually like to build the engine myself. Just a little more peppy than stock. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This is interesting. Where was the serial number on the engine? That's not usual Ford procedure. All 59 designation blocks were designed in 1945. That's the 5 in 59. So the 59L that was in the 40 Merc was installed at a later date. Maybe the mechanic thought it would be a good idea to transfer the serial number to the new block.
I believe you are correct. It was stamped on the intake manifold surface of the block. in the left rear.
I have been informed the 59L was a factory replacement motor. Also was told they were truck motors and ford incorporated the block reliefs to give trucks a bit more grunt? The motor I have is installed in a 32 chassis and has been there before the owner I got it from bought it in the late fifties. Even the fellows atH&H flatheads could not define the origins of 59Lblocks. I am not really concerned regardless. I had no intention to use the motor, although it turns nicely with the starter motor. I did see a cell phone video of the motor running smoothly as I was told. I now am reconsidering using the motor if indeed it does run well. The entire drive train is in functioning order as far as I can tell from seeing videos of the car driving before the body was removed to put on a typical street rod chassis and all that implies. I hope Kevin can enlighten folks as he proceeds with his 59 motor.
Ford flat head engines did not have serial number stamped or cast into them. The only number is the one cast into the engine block to designate the era of its manufacture. The only exception to this is that some later 1949-53 Mercury (8BA era) blocks did have a date code number stamped into the machined surface at the front where the intake bolts on. It's covered by the intake. Read about it here: http://myflatheadford.com/5988-2/ Please take the time to read all the flathead ID info obtained on Google. Very informative. https://www.google.com/search?q=fla.....69i57j33.10871j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Probably be a while before I start on this. Still finishing the Model A with a SBC in it. LOL Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great! Just be sure to stuff all the flat head info. you can into your head so that you spend your money wisely.
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