Hey all, I'm working away at my '63 Galaxie in the midst of swapping my 352 to a 390. This is my first project on a vehicle of this vintage, and it's been interesting. I've tried to research the issue I'm having, but a lot of old threads are missing pictures. 390, Edelbrock Performer 390 intake, Edel 600 CFM carb, 427 manifolds, Cruise-O-Matic trans I got the throttle linkage functioning without binding, but I have a few problems with the shifter linkage: 1) First, it's contacting the long branch manifolds and can't swing forward into the P/R/N range. 2) Second, the rod that connects to the transmission's selector arm would land directly in the path of my exhaust if I simply shortened the rod and installed it with the current geometry. 3) Third, upon researching potential options, I realized there *should* be a kickdown rod to the transmission. There was nothing installed on the car for that purpose when I bought it, and I don't have the factory brackets to reference. - Any ideas on how I can adapt the linkage to clear the exhaust (manifold as well as pipes)? - Or is there a cable shift conversion that can be adapted to the Cruise-O-Matic? - Can anyone provide details/pictures of how the kickdown rod is supposed to function? This is probably a no-brainer for some of the experienced folks here, but I'm pretty new to this. I appreciate any help!
You're in uncharted territory as Ford never offered the 427 with the Cruise-o-matic (4-speeds only) so there's no factory linkage available. I doubt that there's any 'custom fit' cable linkage for this, but there is 'universal' kits available. Lokar makes a kickdown cable kit for the FMX which is very similar to the Cruise-o-matic as well as some shift cable kits. I'd call them first... Most guys swap to a C6, but it has about double the internal drag as your Cruise-o-matic, so you're probably being smart to keep it.
I realized it was never offered with the auto trans once I dropped the motor in and had to bend my transmission dipstick tube and fabricate new trans lines to clear the passenger side. I hadn't considered the shift linkage issue on the driver side, but what better way to learn than by creating problems! I'll take a look and see if I can find the FMX kit. I've never done a cable shifter before, so I've been reading up on the operation thereof. Swapping to a C6 is my wildcard if I can't get this combination operational. I already have the correct plate for it, but I'm going to see if I can get the FX/MX (whichever I have) working first.
I found a thread on another site (here) with pictures of the OEM kickdown rod. Can someone explain in plain terms how that operates? What should the natural position of the kickdown lever be on the transmission body? When it's raised/lowered(?) by the linkage, how far does it need to move in order to actuate the gear shift? Is there a spring to return it to its resting state, or does it need to be adjusted to travel in the same ratio as the throttle? I'm really wishing I had that on my car so I could see it operate...
On a 63 Cruise-O-Matic, the kickdown rod is only for a wide open throttle downshift. The linkage from the carb pushes the lever down only at WOT. The rest of the shift points and the transmission operating pressure are controlled by the vacuum modulator; actually a balance between modulator pressure and governor pressure. I'm guessing this is an MX trans. One of the weak points on this trans is the bolt that holds the internal overrunning clutch hub assembly into the case which also holds the low/reverse servo. There are actually 3 bolts that do this, 2 are external and you can see them on the outside middle of the case towards the top. The one inside the pan that also holds the servo has a habit of breaking leaving you with no reverse. I've always thought this was aggravated by not adjusting the rear band. If this happens and you are lucky, only the bolt breaks. If you are un-lucky, the transmission case breaks. You can adjust the band from outside, but the front band should also be adjusted which requires removing the pan. I suggest you have them both adjusted if you haven't.
Excellent tip, thanks! Would you happen to have any literature on how to do that properly? I have a local transmission shop I trust to work on my vehicles, but I wouldn't assume they know their way around an MX offhand. Their specialized knowledge seems to stop at the C6, TH400, and 727 era.
Here is the band adjustment procedure from the 1969 edition of Motors Auto Repair Manual, step one is to drain the fluid, and remove and clean the pan and screen. I couldn't find anything on the kickdown deal in it though. A copy of the factory service manual will be very helpful if you don't already have one.
Follow-up! I was tinkering under the car all night, and it looks like things will be much easier than anticipated! I mocked up the exhaust, and there's more room than I thought there'd be. I should be able to use the factory linkage design and only have to make a new connecting rod. The remaining complication is that the factory linkage has a bend in the tab. That bend is where it's contacting the manifold and preventing the shift into Park. I've adjusted the linkage at the firewall as far as possible, and it isn't enough to fix the problem. So my plan is to cut off the bend, and use the other existing hole for the new rod I'll be making. This will alter the throw ratio, so I may need to drill a new hole in the shift lever on the transmission. My question, before I start modifying OEM components, is this: Is there any reason I shouldn't do it? They don't seem to be particularly rare or valuable items, but I'd rather ask just in case. I hate seeing people destroy elusive parts.
Went ahead and trimmed the lever down to a size that'll work for my application. Now the remaining challenge on this portion of the project: The bushings. Mine are completely gone, no plastic or rubber remaining intact. The movement is very loose, and I want to tighten it up, especially with the tendency for these old Fords to drop out of Park. Does anyone know where I can find the correct bushings for this assembly? It seems like some of these will need to be 2-piece? I've looked at so many pages, but I can only find parts for manual transmissions.
If nothing else, you could bronze door hinge bushings from a rebuild kit. Look for the thinner ones, or drill it out for the larger ones if needed.
Got the linkage all figured out and put together. Really proud of it. I ended up buying the Lokar universal linkage rod with spherical ends. Made a template with some spare NiCop brake line, and I took it to my buddy's place to heat and bend it. Just finished pulling the transmission down so I can drill the new hole in the shift lever. Measured three times, so I'm sure it'll be wrong when I put it back together. Transmission pan has the FX shape, and I confirmed the main body is 9⅞" long. The body says C3TP-7006A and the tag says 2H23. I'll put up more details with pictures once I get this all finished up, in case anyone else is looking to do this in the future.
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