Projects Have a quick question about seam sealer

If you use a single part sealer that goes in a standard caulk gun, look at the use-by date on the cartridge. The one I used on my car, I wrecked a cheap caulk gun since it was so hard to push out of the cartridge. Bought a $20 caulk gun to finish the job and got a couple of blisters finishing the job up.

 

Thanks! I guess the 2 part is probably a better idea then. Seems like a better product to use in this case. Now I don't know if I should use 3M Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer, or Bare Metal Seam Sealer....

 

The 2 part is good in places with a lot of access, but if you need to get into a place with limited space, the one part makes the job easier. The two part is a caulk gun with two tubes (though a bit smaller) compared to the single part which is a caulk gun with a singe tube.
Either way, be sure everything is ready to use the seam sealer on at the time you start. Once the tube (tubes) are cut, what you don't use up within the specified time frame will harden and you will be throwing it away. This is not something you can do a little today and a little bit more tomorrow, unless you finish off the tube you opened today, and will be opening a new tube tomorrow. The tube you open today will be all set up and hard by tomorrow. Gene

 

Awesome, good to know! So can I epoxy primer over the seam sealer after using it, and then paint, or should I only topcoat it? I was thinking of putting down some epoxy primer, then body filler where needed, then seam sealer, then another coat of epoxy primer, then high build, then topcoat and clearcoat. Would that cause any issues with the seam sealer? The 3M that I am looking at doesn't seem to mention it anywhere.

 

The seam sealer seems to work best when applied directly to the metal however, on my coupe I resealed the rain gutter after all the body work was completed, and after the high build primer was done. I did the seam sealer, then we did a seal coat on the car, then applied the paint. I can tell you its a real pain to apply the seam sealer after the body work is completed in areas where it is clearly visible, it takes a lot of care to make it blend in. You really want to be sure the seam sealer has fully cured before you top coat it. Gene

 

Oh okay thanks! The 3M says this about it:

"This professional-quality black seam sealer can be used to seal vertical or horizontal seams on automotive surfaces primed with a 2K urethane, 2K epoxy primer, or clean, sanded paint. Its non-flowing, heavy-bodied formula allows technicians to texturize the seam to match OEM seam sealer appearances and duplicate OEM beads."

So thats why I was thinking maybe I should put down a coat of epoxy primer before using it.

 

Old school Drip-Check and even "newer" Fast-n- Firm used to be all we had and paint tended to spider crack over it over time. The new 2 part urethane sealers are MUCH better these days. PPG DP epoxy primer under the sealer is fine. Keep the film build to a minimum over the top of the sealer.



Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

You are always better off putting the seam sealer OVER the Epoxy Primer.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I would not use cavity wax on a fresh painted or prior to paint, really meant as a preservative after the car is assembled.

If youre still in paint and body phase, thin down some epoxy primer and coat the inside of the doors and cavities. Clear the drain holes as it dries.

On a recent build, I used a shutz undercoating gun with over thinned primer, turned the air up to 70lb. It shot all the way thru the length of the rocker. Hit it from both sides, rockers sealed. Rest of the car, I turned the air down and coated inside the quarters, doors, etc.

I apply seam sealer over epoxy.

 

Thanks for all the tips! I will have to keep this all in mind for when I take the next steps on getting my car completed. I'm still learning, but want to do it right.

 

The trick of laying masking tape parallel to the seam you're trying to seal is great especially if you have an OCD personality, nice and neat. Just remember to remove the tape after you lay down the sealer. On the other hand if you want the original sloppy look go freehand...

 

OverdriveX

The Tiger Seam Seal You Tube video shows just what he is talking about with the masking tape!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Interesting, thanks guys! I'm definitely going to use the masking tape trick so it looks pretty nice, the Tiger Seam Seal video makes it seem pretty simple.

 

The 2 part ones are the way to go once you splurge for the $50 gun. But you will find other uses for it. If you have an auto body supply store close by, go see them. 3M and SEM are popular choices.

 

You can get two part seam sealers/glues etc that work in a regular caulking gun. No need to buy a $50 gun.

http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/part-number/100822/us/
http://www.evercoat.com/all-products/us/?find=100823

 

Hmm these are interesting products. I wonder if they work the same as the traditional 2 part seam sealers that I'm seeing? Also, the two mixing nozzles that come with the 3M; are they also not able to be used for application of the seam sealer?

 

They are the same type of products, designed to be used in the Auto Body industries. They do work the same way. The tubes are split top to bottom instead of side to side. Any 2K product will require a mixing tip and a couple usually come with the product. Extras can be bought as well as they can only be used once. Once the product dries in the tip they must be replaced.

 

Bob,

Had you not made that comment, I would have not even known there was a use by date on them! I bought 2 tubes of Tiger Seam Sealer a few days ago & sure enough the date was 03/20 a month expired, fortunately it still flowed out fine.

I did not have any problem with using a 1K single stage on this as it was a deck lid that I removed the old seam sealer & sandblasted the complete underside. Not really any rust to speak of, but the original sealer was cracked & coming out. Spayed a couple of coats of Tamco 770 high build Epoxy, then put in the seam sealer. Today I will scuff a bit & shoot color & clear

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

I've got another question for you experts as I continue on this journey. So I have some small holes I'm trying to fill where I blew threw the metal. I try to use the welder, and it works for a few, but on some others I just keep blowing through again and again making a mess. So, I bought some of this metal solder from home depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Har...z-Lead-Free-Acid-Core-Solder-335191/309077494

Although, I'm not sure how to get it to flow and fill in the holes. I tried using my soldering gun, which didn't really work. Then I tried my MAPP gas torch, which is waayyy too hot and burns the 20ga steel. I'm not sure what my options are here, but I also though about using some Devcon plastic steel putty; not sure though.

 

OverdriveX,

After you spray your Epoxy use some Duraglass to fill the pin holes. Is a very hard bondo laced with fiberglass strands. Smooth it as close as possible to finish while applying, because it drys like a rock & is hard to sand. Unless of course you want to go through the extra work of cutting out the "soft" area & MIG welding a patch of new metal in .

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Thanks! I bought some Evercoat Z-Grip body filler. Doesn't have fiberglass reinforcement though. I was going to get USC All Metal, but decided against it due to a few comments I've read about it.

 

Evercoat is a recognized supplier of body fillers & while I have not used that particular product, I am sure as long as it is just small holes you will be fine! Especially after sandblasting & applying Epoxy.

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Do NOT use Z -Grip to cover holes it will absorb water and you will have a bigger mess on your hand down the road.

 

He has already applied (or will apply) Epoxy to the sandblasted metal. he will then use sealer (or more Epoxy) over the sanded filler. NO moisture will ever get to the filler.

 

It will if he has holes in the metal like he says he does.

 

I guess I don't understand you thought process on this. Epoxy seals metal & or filler 100% from moisture. That is why good body men do their body work over it & then apply more or use a sealer on top.

 

No good body man leaves holes in his body work slathers filler over them and then hopes the epoxy seals up all the problems. That is hack work at best and I have seen it fail many times your mileage may vary.

 

I offered up the option of doing it the proper way of cutting it all out & welding in a patch, but I don't believe the O.P. has a MIG to do that. On "Non" high end stuff, I have relied on Epoxy to do its job it in similar situations & it always has. I don't actually know what panel he is working on, but if he gets to both sides of the filler with epoxy in those pinholes it will last forever.

 

Make sure your car body is sitting square and true before you glue the quarter panels on. Any sag/droop/twist should be addressed before you lock in any abortions with permanent seam sealer. Jack stands or blocks or whatever are not automatically the correct way to "jig" the body every time. You have to be sure you "Goldilocks" the entire body structure. You don't want to find out a week or an hour later that the trunk lid or doors no longer fit right. Dry fit the panel first, measure to be sure you haven't shifted the wheel opening forward or back, and mark some reference points with tape or a marker. Then slather on the glue and hit your marks. The prep should be the major part of the job. It's time well spent.