hey guys, running a totaly stock eab flathead v8 in my 53 customline ford and im thinking down the road its going to need a bit more "umph" a little beefyer cam sounds like a good way to go. any recomendations? its a heavy car and a daily driver so nothing realy radicle, i think you know what im looking for. tim
Running an Isky Max-1 on my 1950 Flathead motor. I like it. Has a fun, lopey idle (lopey is the correct term, right?) and helps pull more with multiple carbs. Max 1
Go over to Ford Barn and ask Ol Ron. Seems to me like the consensus over there is that the Max 1 is little better than stock.
Ol Ron will recomend the Literio L-100. He put one in the engine he built for me. It has a real deal lope, and pulls hard from about 1800 thru 4500. I've tickled 5000+ but Ron told me to red line it at 4000 to make sure the engine would be around for a long time. After all it's a street engine and it's just supposed to sound hot when you're crusing around.
a recent hotrod magazine flathead article build-up ran a max-1 and claimed 160 hp . seems like a good all around grind
Here is a link to the specs and contact info for the company that is reproducing them. http://www.fordbarn.com/earlyv8/forum03/messages2/5005038.html
I agree with FlatDog . . . in an otherwise stock engine, the L100 is probably a bit much. Also - he is in a heavy car - which makes things even worse. Given that we don't know what else he's going to do to the engine --> dual carbs, headers, heads, ignition, etc . . . it is a bit hard to recommend anything. I think something along the line of an Isky Max-1 would be more appropriate. Over camming a big heavy car with an otherwise stock engine isn't going to make anybody happy. IMHO Dale
I'm running an ISKY #88 Full race in my flathead with three Stromberg 97's linked progressive, Offy 8:1 high compression heads and dual point Mallory distributor........it idles pretty well with some lope but really comes on after about 2500 rpms and when I kick in the two end carbs......I like how it runs and sounds......wouldn't hesitate to recommend it..... Brucie
Max-1 For your application, would be a great choice - it is appreciably better than stock Stock ~ .328" lift & 190* dur on 110 lobe c/l Max-1 - .364" lift & 249* dur on 111 lobe c/l
Hey Tim, I would recommend the Max -1 as well. It's what I put in my 8BA and does it sound horny at idle.... and pull when the second carb kicks in You'll probably want to invest in some adjustable lifters as well. The Max-1 has a wee bit more lift than a worn stocker When I measured the lift from my original cam, it was missing about .030" lift from what the manual quoted Flatman
I have a Max 1 per FlatDog's suggestion. Four inch crank, Stromberg equipped Thickstun 2x2 and a Mallory dist. on loan from the worlds largest pre-war indoor junk yard. All of this is under the hood of a junky little modified roadster so there isn't much weight there. Granted I only have a couple of days on it with no real tuning but I can definitely tell it's pulling harder than stock. So if I'm reading correctly an L 100 is a regrind? Interesting. Flatdog, if you're out there, what would you have to say about putting an L 100 in a blown motor? I've nearly got all of the parts gathered save the cam *and the price of the L 100 is pretty attractive.
Your not the only one, FlatOz and RatBastard are both in the process of doing this setup. Rat currently has the L100 naturally aspirated with the blower ready to go. FlatOz has the 4-71 blown motor with the L100 ready to go in. If we could combine the two motors lol. When I rebuild mine, I think the L100 would be nice, although I've heard good things about the Potvin 3/8. Side note: I get a wierd message when i try to visit fordbarn, saying I dont have permission. They closed it off? Danny
Well as Psycho said, Im gonna find out pretty soon as to how the L100 will go with the 4-71 on my 258 cube 8BA. IMHO, a proper blower cam with a a lower duration @.050, decent lift to allow breathing and a lobe sep of around 112-114 deg is better - dont really want to push all that nice boost out the exhuast now do I lol !! I belive Dave Tatom is grinding blower specific Flathead cams and I think I read somewhere Schneider were about to do the same. Anyone know for sure? Rat Rat
Grim, Hi ,that l-100 I think would work well with a blower,My motor in the car now that does not have a cam made for a blower,has specs that look like a l-100 with more lift.Its runs great with blower.Next motor will have cam made for blower.Might not run better,time (times )will tell.
RE: Blower Cams and Other Grinds There is another cam grinder that you guys should all know about -- named "Pete" at D&L Auto Machine in Washington. He has been building and racing flatheads for many years and has patterns for most of the hot grinds - as well as some special radius ones. He has a cool grind that is kind of like an Isky 400 Jr . . that has .400 lift and about 270 duration (about the biggest you can go on a stock core) -- I'm going to try one in one of my street blower motors. Also - he can grind a Potvin 425, Isky 404-A, etc.. I don't know if he has the Potvin 3/8 pattern? Anyway - talk to Pete and tell him that Dale Hays in Columbus sent yah! Pete D & L Auto Machine 20409 SR 706 Elbe,Wa.98330 eMail: [email protected] 360-569-2656
Roger Lund with the gold '30 coupe has a Potvin 3/8 in his, and it sounds GREAT! I think he said it had a 3-5/16" x 4" inside and only runs one two barrel on top (a couples dummies for looks). My next cam is gonna be a Potvin 3/8. He told me he got his cam from Red's Headers.
alchemy vbmenu_register("postmenu_1352404", true); You got most of it right, I have been trying to find the info I got with that cam, but I must have put somewhere so it would'nt get lost, now I can't find nuttin. Anywho, I got that Potvin 3/8 from Flathead Jack, and I think I saw an ad in one of the mags this month that said he had a new catalog out. If I find more later I'll add it buflochp
We are going to try an Isky 77B in our 8BA, Flower doesn't want a bumpy idle but we need a little more than stock. We'll see how she goes in a few days, the block is still at the machine shop.
I found this site and the technical details of evaluating flathead cams amazing: http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/index.html http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/FlatheadPerformance.html I especially like this observation: As explained in the Cam Perfomance page, slow opening and closing contributes to poor idle and off idle performance and poor low speed torque. If you want a lumpy idle and poor low end performance, then you should pick a slow opening/closing cam.
Yes, quite the discussion going on at the Fordbarn about flatty cams right now. Both a distinguished grinder and a NASCAR engine builder are discussing their current products. Along with a bunch of others' opinions and experiences with many different designs.
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