Technical Wiring fan relay

1930 Model A with a 350 engine. Aluminium intake. I bought the car about 6 months ago. Has a switched fan. No relay. I wanted to remove the switch so i wont have to remember to turn the fan on.

I bought a relay package on line. I believe I wired it properly. Except i dont know where or how the brown wire goes or plays int this. It says to connect the brown wire to the ignition or fan switch. The fan switch is just that, a switch to turn on and off. Which is just power to the fan.

I started the car and the temperature in the Stewart Warner gauge went up to 200 and it did not turn on. I then hooked the fan up to work as it did before to cool the engine.

Any thoughts on the brown wire? And why it did not turn on? Its pretty simple wiring, except for the brown wire.

Here are the directions.
Features:
-Comes on at 185º AND Turns off at 175º
-This kit is set up to turn your electric fan on at 185 degrees and shut off at 175 degrees and will work with any 12 volt system.

Instructions:

1.For the two red wires,please connect the short red wire to the fan and the long red wire to the battery.

2.Install thermostat into the head or intake manifold. Route the black wire to thermostat.

3.Route and connect the red wire to the fan "+" terminal or power wire coming from the fan motor printed "to electric fan".

4.Mount the circuit breaker as close as possible to battery you are using for the fan relay.

5.Neatly route the red wire from the relay to one side circuit breaker installed in step 5. Take the remaining red wire and connect the unused post on the circuit breaker to the battery source.

6.Route the brown wire to the ignition switch or the fan switch whichever is more convenient.

 

Where is the thermostat from the kit located?

 

On the top of the aluminium intake manifold. Its the one closer to pass wheel. Pink connector.

 

The brown wire goes to a ignition "on" source so your fan will only operate with the key on. It is the power supply the relay uses to turn on (relay only, not actual fan), the sending unit provides the ground source for that circuit.

 

Take the wire off the sender shown and ground it with key on and see if fan runs.
Look at the relay closely-30 comes from the batt-87 to the fan-86-85-one to the sender and one to hot with key on.'If you want to turn it on manually hook to wire to wire to sender and run to a toggle switch and ground other side of switch.

 

Bring the engine to temperature. Check for continuity between ground and sending unit. If not you have a bad sending unit

 

OK. Stay patient with me on this because I am not as smart as you guys.

24riverview. "The brown wire goes to a ignition "on" source so your fan will only operate with the key on. It is the power supply the relay uses to turn on (relay only, not actual fan), the sending unit provides the ground source for that circuit." WHILE I AM TESTING THIS OUT, CAN I JUST RUN THE BROWN TO A POWER SOURCE THEN DEAL WITH ITS PERMANENT LOCATION LATER?

olscrounger. GIVE ME SOME TIME TO INVESTIGATE THIS.

GAGERENE. Check for continuity between ground and sending unit If not you have a bad sending unit. THIS IS AS SIMPLE AS PLACING ONE END OF MY CONT. TESTER ON THE INTAKE AND THE OTHER ONE THE PINK CONNECTOR, RIGHT?

 

That is correct on both

 

Yes
If you didn't have the brown wire hooked to anything before don't worry about testing sender for now.

 

if you wire your switch in like this then if your sender goes out it will work manually

 

The sending unit stud will only be grounded when the temp is above 185° ( on yours)

 

That is incorrect. The black wire should be switched ground.
That drawing showing red to ground would let out all the magic smoke.

 

Marked for clarification

 

You guys are great.....just some good advice with pictures ! I'll be here sooner are later with my flat head.

 

How about we discount colors if we can here for a min....... We need to know what post's on a relay do what= +/-, trigger,and to part.......... I know these things,and has been discussed at depth, But, and has been hashed in the past, what might go where,and how it does it's thing....... colors are unimportant OP, just that things are connected correctly. Search relays/wiring/switching.... Any car can be wire'ed with any color...... As long as it's correct, and working properly.

 

Look at the numbers on the top of the relay

They have standard codes but SPDT Relays have normally open AND normally closed [post 87 and post 87A]


This is for a single wire Fan switch
Post 30 from 12v source [and also can be bridged to post 85]
Post 87 to Fan which has it's own ground
Post 85 from Ign [ or bridged from post 30 if you want the fan to operate with key switched off]
Post 86 to Fan switch which grounds

Post 85 and 86 can be swapped around
And post 87 and 30 can also be swapped around.

 

You are right I misread the drawing

 

Thanks for the info. i will look at it tonight. I appreciate the help.

 

Easily done as it's a dreadful diagram - the vendor should be ashamed, or maybe is curiously looking to invite support calls!

Chris

 

Let me throw this in the hat. The wire going to Ign. switch and in your case is a Brown wire should connect to the acc. terminal on any given switch, not the Ign. terminal. Reason being the Fan motor will also make electricity when turning on it's own. Feed back if you will. That can be stopped by a directional diod but not necessary if connected to Acc. term. If you connect it to the Ign. term upon turning the key off you can have momentary run on of the motor until the Fan stops turning. Worst case that can happen is if you have contact points Ign and upon the motor stops turning the points are closed, the wind blows spinning the fan and the current flow can burn up the points.

 

What pist-n-broke said....but for all you guys, a better location for the sending unit-switch is a port in the lower rad tank. In the manifold, the fan comes on at 180 and stays on when it don't have to run. Mine is located in the bottom rad tank, when it sees 180 the fan comes on, translates to about 200 degrees at the block. Comes on, cools to 180 and shuts off, almost never runs the fan, except for parades and REALLY slow cruising over a long distance. Been effective on mine for twenty years, even on 100 degree days.

 

"Easily done as it's a dreadful diagram - the vendor should be ashamed, or maybe is curiously looking to invite support calls!"

THIS IS WHY I ASKED THE QUESTION HERE. I AM SURE I WOULD NOT HAVE HAD A HELPFUL ANSWER FROM THE VENDOR.

I DID CONNECT THE BROWN WIRE TO THE ACC WIRE.

I STARTED THE CAR AND WAS A BIT MORE PATIENT THIS TIME AN WAITED. IT TURNED ON, THEN TURNED OFF AFTER IT HAD COOLED SUFFICIENTLY. WHEN I TURN OFF THE ENGINE, THE FAN STOPS ALSO.

IT WORKS GREAT THANKS FOR THE HELP

 

I’ve always wired in a direct power switch, to be used if your sensor or relay fails. Fuse it at 30 amps.