Projects 32 Ford 3 window build finish details

Great thread! I love the details.

 

So I have a riddle for you guys!?!
Question: How do you know when you might be using too much bondo to do a small trunk lid???
Answer: see photo below...... when you sweep this much bondo dust off the floor. .... I have got to improve my bodywork skills!! I think I am making this to hard.


The hood was much easier. Both had a little 1/4" long crack up on top by the hood hinge. (no photo) We welded and ground smooth. There were some very small dents that I pounded out and some very small pits on the surface that needed a very thin coat of filler.

Sanding on the flat parts went quick.


The louvers took awhile but I was thrilled no dents in the louvers. I don't know how you fix a dented louver and make it look right. This picture was sanding high build primer.


In the end, I was really happy with how the hood turned out since every time you drive the car this is what you will see. Before I painted the under side you could still see the scribe lines from the layout for the louvers. These louvers were done back in the 40's or 50's. I wish the guy would have scribed his initials.


I need a break from body work so I am going onto the bottom of the body for awhile. I made a 2 X 4 frame to lift the body off the frame. I didn't want to lift by the roof but that probably would be fine.


Then a little work on the gantry crane.



Had just enough height to get chassis out.


I have poor man's rotisserie.....1953 Pontiac inner tubes


up, up and over. Thank GOD for my strong sons!!




Then unto a wooden frame with casters.


The goal for the under body is to;
attach nuts for seat
attach nuts for seat belts
attach cross channels to stiffen up trunk floor
attach stiffener to cross channel where modification for Hurst shifter was made.
weld up numerous random drilled hole from the last 88 years
remove all rust and prep for primer
Greg

 

I installed all the seat mounting nuts to the under side of the floor this past week. I am using the glide brand seat at first. Later after the car is drive able I will restore the original seat and use it, if I can get it low enough. After I bought the Glide seat I learned there is available lower spring seat for original seats. The glide set came with a bracket but I made my own for 2 reasons first, I could lower the seat 1/4" and second, I needed to put the seat back further for leg room. The glide bracket wouldn't get the seat back far enough. The bracket I made is the gray bar in the photo.


Obviously I want to be able to put the seat with bolts into fixed nuts in the floor. (I don't want to have to hold a wrench under the car to put seats in) The seat mounts to the bracket and the bracket has 3 bolts per side attaching to floor at each cross channel. I welded nuts to a 1 1/4" X 1/1/2" steel plate and welded the plate to the bottom of the channel. Remember the car is upside down, these photos are looking at the bottom of the floor. Four of the mounting holes were like this, pretty simple.


While I was doing this I welded up a dozen or so random holes in the floor cross channel. I use flattened piece of copper pipe as a backer.

looks much better without all the holes welded up.


The back two holes were more complicated. The cross channel is inside the car on top of the floor sheet metal. I couldn't just weld a nut to the floor because tightening the bolt would crush the sheet metal into the channel. So I drilled a bigger hole in the floor pan sheet metal and made a bushing/nut to clamp to.


The bushing/nut is threaded and the exact height of the distance between the cross channel and the sheet metal floor pan.


I welded the bushing/nut to the floor pan. But first I clamped it tight with a bolt.



Then a little weld.


Now my seat mounting nuts are all in place. The nice thing about doing floor work with the car upside down is the floor gives you a nice work bench!



Next up is seat belt mounting nuts.

 

Today was seat belt mounting day. I won't go into any detail since it is the same design as the seat mounting except the bushing/nuts are bigger. The seat uses 5/16" bolts and the seat belts use 7/16". So back to the lathe for some bigger bushing/nuts to accommodate the 7/16" bolt.


All welded in place. Here is what the underside of the floor looks like with the bushing/nuts. The seat ones will stick down 1/8" and the seat belt ones will stick down 3/16" so there should be no interference with muffler driveshaft etc.



Greg

 

I am having trouble getting photos to load I will try this again.

I don't think I ever showed much detail on the cab floor yet. The cab floor was done a while ago. We went with a sheet metal floor. My son did the design, sheet metal & welding work. I made the “dimple die” so we could flush mount the fasteners. The goal for the floor was to be as water tight as possible, be removable and have the fasteners fit flush with the floor.


The cab floor is 5 parts. Three large removable panels. Two are under the seat and one panel where your feet go. And two small access covers. One for the master cylinder and one for the shifter. The car had a floor when I got it, but I switched to a Hurst shifter which changed the floor a lot. Instead of modifying the other floor we decided to make a new one.


Making the floor took lots of measurements and even some poster board cut outs to get the right shape and fit up. A lot of trial & error. In order to strengthen the floor, we put some stiffener channels underneath the floor. We originally did this thinking we could run the wires from the front of the car to the back in this channel but that just didn’t work. The 5 pieces weigh in at 24 lbs. Which is totally useless information but I thought some one may want to know.


The channels tacked in place.



more to come

 

This follows earlier post on floor fabrication.
Mating parts were all TIG welded for sealing and strength.


The TIG welds look great but, after primer I put a layer of seem sealer on anyways.


Mounting brackets for the parking brake were welded in. Hard to see in photo but they are behind C-clamps.


Here is the “dimple die”. I used a 7/8” bolt I had laying around. I ground off the head marking so it would sit nice on the Dake Arbor Press. I drilled a hole in the threaded end and chamfered the hole in the shape I needed to match an oval head screw. This becomes the lower die.


Then it just stands on the Dake Arbor Press
.

Then a hole is drilled in the floor panel. The screw set in place. The oval head screw is the upper die.


and crunch you have a nice form fit dimple. (obviously it took a little tweaking to get it right.)


more to come.

 

This post follows my floor fabrication post above.

The screws are 1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head Machine Screws. After drilling holes in the floor panels, the panel is used as a template to mount the nuts. The nuts are Tab Base Weld Nuts with Barrel.


The nuts are welded to the body on a lower ledge. Sorry I don't have a photo.

We had to cut an access hole to get to the master cylinder. The cover sits flush with the rest of the floor panels. It has a tongue to engage in the floor like a oil filler cap and a screw will be added later.


The bottom side of cover.



This is the slot for parking brake from the top side.



The shifter has an access panel also. This panel was designed to fit the shifter boot & bezel. The boot & bezel is a 64 GTO unit. I choose that one because the shifter on a 64 GTO is round and doesn’t say Hurst so the hole in the boot is round. Eventually I will be putting a round chrome shift handle in this car and this boot & bezel will fit perfect.




This is a photo of the bottom of the shifter cover. The boot fits nicely into the shifter cover.


Here is how the screws look on the finished work. They sit flush with the sheet metal floor.


So that's the floor for my little Deuce 3 Window.
Greg

 

Looks Great!!

 

Some boring stuff going on here.....
Today I worked on stiffening the front body cross channel by adding a ¼” x ¾” stiffener. The cross channel was modified to fit a Hurst shifter which meant we had to put a big zig zag in it. We knew this would happen, but it really made the channel flimsy. Today I fixed that problem. First, I checked where the frame cross member was so I cleared it. Then I bent up a 1/8 rod for fitting & as a template.


Using an 1/8” rod I bent up by hand for trial fitting, I bent the ¼” x ¾" bar stock on the press.

It came out flat which was good. I didn’t have to fix it.

I wanted it to span under the rocker panels, so I had to fit the ends by cutting them down a little.


Finally, I got a good tight fit. ( this photo is bottom of body)... Sorry a little confusing photos


I didn’t want too much of it unpainted & I couldn’t find my weld thru primer so I did it the old fashion way by taping off where I would weld and painting the rest .


Final fit up with C-clamps and some primer.

And a little weld.



And its all stiff now.!! I can check this task off the list!! This is part of a build but not very exciting....I hope I didn't put anybody to sleep.
Greg

 

Well as you can see above I had a picture posting problem. After a few days all my pictures turned into the dreaded RED X With the help of the guys at "how to post pictures" thread I think I am back in the game.

Now back to regular car updates.
I have been busy installing my brake cable bracket on the frame. I am using the Lokars park brake handle which I really like, but I am not a fan of their bracket. The bracket has very little wrench clearance. I cannot imagine laying on my back making an adjustment with my arthritic hands.

Besides, since I would need to make a bracket anyways to hold this bracket, I decided to just scrap this one and make a new one. At first the bracket was just a rectangle but that was ugly. So I machined a 10 degree angle on the sides. Better but still ugly.

So I thought what would a Hot Rodder in 1959 do for a bracket? He would put a lightening hole in it to reduce weight. So I found a 1" drill and went to town.

Much better , then a little chamfering the holes and a little belt sanding to remove scale and its all done. With a whole lot of wrench clearance!

Next a little clamping and alignment to make sure the cables run smooth and aims at the brake handle

My frame is finished painted and it really hurt to grind off that beautiful paint.
All welded and another item I can check off the list.



I also have been working on the fuel gauge. With the body off I could measure the tank depth for a gauge. I decided to go with the SW Intellisensor at 7 inch depth. An 8" inch might have fit but I decided the 7" will give me some miles when the gauge is on E.


It goes with my SW fuel gauge. I know there is no love on the HAMB for these SW gauges. Seems the gauge reliability is horrible, but this is what I had on my cars many years ago and I just wanted that gauge. I hope mine will be reliable. Not much good or bad on the HAMB about the intellisensor so I thought I would try it.


Here is a riddle for you guys; True or False - the S.A.E. 5 bolt hole pattern for sending unit has the bolt holes evenly spaced??
Drum roll......The answer is False. I put the sending unit in and all the bolts didn't fit. I took it apart and looked closely and checked the net and the hole pattern is NOT evenly spaced. So after a few tries It fits!!!


Another Item I can check off the list.
Thanks for following along and comments always welcome!
Greg

 

Hi Guys,
The trunk floor needed a little help. The floor oil canned downward. I plan to load up this car with luggage and some tools and drive the wheels off it (Hot Rod Power Tour, Hot Rod Hill Climb, TROG etc)so I needed to add a floor cross channel. I ordered a set from Brookville and went to town.
First, I had to figure out where I could put one. It will be on the underside of the floor. So I had to clear tail pipes, frame cross members and not interfere with future service needs like interfering with shock bolts.

I took some measurements from the body mounting hole on frame.


Then transferred the location to underside of floor. It couldn't span all the way across because it has to clear the frame rails.


Then some drilling for screw holes.


Then some chamfers and deburring.



You can really see the floor bow here.


I used sheet metal screws to pull the floor up tight against cross channel after I sprayed on some weld thru primer.


The screws pulled it in for welding really well.


Then it was welding time.

I removed the screws and welded up the screw holes and ground flat.


All done. This should make the floor much stiffer.


In other news, I cut the hole for a grommet for wiring at the lower firewall. All wires going to the front of the car will exit cab here.


Then I made a bracket for my cowl hood hinge bracket. For some reason my brand new bracket doesn't fit. So I made a spacer for it so it would fit. I probably should have called MAC's and see if they sent me the wrong one. But it fits nice now.


Then I made a bracket for my Mega Fuse.


I welded nuts on the back so if I need to replace it I can do it easier laying on my back.


Then I welded it in place under where the passenger seat is, right next to the battery.


This was the best place to get to it without jacking up the car and it will serve as a place to attach a jumper cable if the battery ever dies on me.


Next I worked on fitting the gas tank. The gas tank interfered with the frame rails and would not sit down all the way. This is a common problem apparently, since there are threads on 32's that have had the same problem.


Sadly this means more grinding on my finished painted frame. I took about 3/32" off each side of the frame rail.


Now the tank fits nice with a little side to side play and it lays flat on both frame rails


That's all for now!
Greg

 

It’s been awhile since I posted any progress on the 32. As usual, progress slows down but does not stop over the summer months. Over the summer I worked on many things, I'll start with the work I did on the back, bottom underside corners of the body. There was a lot going on there and I wanted to clean it up a little. In these photos the body is upside down. First I cleaned it up a little with a grinder, then painted with some weld thru primer.


There was several elevations of sheet metal so first I made a filler piece to even it all out.


Then I welded it so it was sealed against water splashing in any holes if I get stuck in the rain cruising. This is near where the rear tire would splash.


Then I cut out and formed a cover piece.


Then a little fit up, grinding & bending.


Then again seam welded it in all around.


Next will be a little filing and some body filler and the corners (I did this to both sides) will be nice & neat.

 

Here is some more progress on the 32.
The drivers side inner rocker sheet metal was showing its age for an 88 year old car. I decided to replace it. Brookville makes the part. It was a big job to replace. Again, in these pictures the body is upside down on a cart. This is the old part.


Here is the new part from Brookville.


Getting the old one out was a challenge due to all the spot welds and rivets. It literally came out in pieces.


After I got the inner rocker removed there was another 12" long piece underneath the inner rocker that needed to be replaced.


After numerous, emails, phone calls and pictures it was determined Brookville does not make this part. So I had to make one from scratch.


It took me hours to make...and then I forgot to take a picture of the final part....But you can see it painted in primer under the new inner rocker. I drilled 1/4" holes in the inner rocker and filled the holes with weld to attach the two parts. It is really a fake spot weld.


Then pre fit-up & modify and re-try and more modifications, then more fit-up


Then after seemingly a bazillion attempts it finally fits nice!!


Then permanently welding in place. The boards are gauges to get the mounting holes to match the frame mounting holes, each board is numbered and made unique to the width of the frame at each mounting hole.

It was a lot of work and no one will ever see it, but I am glad I did it.

In other news, I made a bolt together stand for my 327 while I work on the body. I was afraid something would happen to it sitting on 2 X 4"s and it is nice to be able to move it around. I made the stand with bolts so I can disassemble and store it easy when the motor is back in the car.

 

Here is some more progress on the 32 from last summer.
If you have been following along since 2016 you might remember I bought this car from a friend who started the build, but then I bought it from him. My friend had put a late 50's Corvette shifter in it, but I am Hurst guy. Putting the Hurst in required several changes, one being the exhaust needed to be modified to make clearance for the shift linkage. Well, my son who is a much better welder than I am came over and we modified the exhaust.
This picture shows the interference with the linkage and exhaust.


I placed an order with Summit for some pipes.


Then we started to cut up the old system.


My son works at a Power Plant and suggested we use an old pipe fitters trick to get the cut in the pipe straight to the radius so we can (we meaning him) get a good weld fit up.

It is really simple, the eye where the string attaches is exactly in the center of the radius so you just pull the string tight and mark your cut with a sharpie right next to the string and the cut will be a perfect circle.


Then some saw cutting.


Then a little tacking and checking fit up.


Then final welding. Now the shift linkage works nice and I have room for my fingers to work on it.


The exhaust was ceramic coated. My friend kept great records so I was able to contact the shop that coated it originally and have them recoat it. They just called this week and said it is ready. One more thing to cross off the list.

 

Nice work.


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Hi Guys,
Next on the list was to figure out the body to frame mounting. The body & frame have 14 mounting holes. The body is bolted from the top with nuts on the bottom. Installing these nuts on the underside of the frame looked near impossible on most of the holes. With a boxed frame, I could not imagine installing a nut while laying on my back with some one turning the bolt from up top inside the body. Furthermore, I wanted to be able to do this job alone in the future without a helper, so I made some mounting plates to weld inside the frame.



This is how I made them. First, I set up and turned the some 3/8" flanged nuts to remove the hex.


I turned them to be press fit in the mounting plate.


Then I pressed them into the hole in the 1/8 X 1 ¼” plate. The only purpose of the press fit was to hold them in place for welding and keep them straight.


Then I welded the flange of the nut to the mounting plate. The flange will not go against the frame. The flange will face downward when installed. I know that is not the design intent of a flange nut but I am using the flange & weld to stop the nut from pulling thru the 1/8 X 1 ¼” plate during tightening or an upward force from the bolt. Clear as mud??
This was a practice piece while I fine tuned the welder. The nuts are zinc plated and zinc always compromises the welding.
The two ¼” chamfered holes are for welding the plate to the frame.


After welding I ran a tap and a bolt thru them to clean out any weld spatter & fix any distortion from welding.


Many of these had to be modified to fit in place due to the frame boxing structure & crossmembers .


After I made each piece, I numbered them since many were different.


One of them was a combined piece because it had to slip in behind where the master cylinder bracket is.

Then I did a little taping where the weld will be.

Then some paint.


Then I used a bolt & nut to draw them up tight and square with the frame


Then a little welding in the 1/4" holes. When welded in, the nut sits just below the top surface of the frame.
Later I will nicely grind smooth the weld and then a little bondo and the body to frame mounting is done. The bolt in this photo is just the bolt I used to draw it up tight, I will post another better picture later of the frame without this bolt & nut. It is only when one starts to post on a build thread that you realize you forgot to take a picture that would really make the post clearer.


Next is to try the body fit up. Thanks for looking!
Greg

 

Hi Guys,
After finishing the frame to body mounting holes by welding the nuts in the frame rails, it was time to try the body on the frame.


Well the 14 mounting holes fit fairly well with a little work and a few elongated holes. I was quite happy to get all the mounting bolts in but my happiness ended soon when I noticed that I had neglected the cowl mounting bracket fitment. The passenger side fit good. The camera angle makes it look bad.


The drivers side was off by 5/8"


I spent hours with a plumb bob hanging off the cowl, taking measurements, comparing sides with a contour gage from side to side. Finally, it was determined the drivers side lower cowl was at some time in the car's 89 years was pushed in 5/8".


Then I found some confirmation. Inside the car the sheet metal had a ripple indicative of the cowl being pushed in. On the other side of the car the two layers of sheet metal lay flat together. The signs were there all along I just never put it all together. The drivers door always stuck out a little down by the bottom of the cowl.


So my son & I made a fixture for a hydraulic cylinder. She is ugly but we had no point loading and it stayed in place.


The pushing begins. We had all the passenger body to frame mounting bolts installed and tightened. The drivers side was able to move. We went slow and easy. We placed the fixture below the firewall.


Obviously, we had tremendous spring back. The body made some horrible sounds. It was like in the movie when the Titanic hit the iceburg. So we added heat where the ripple was. I know my photos are hard to follow. This is inside the car at floor by where clutch pedal is sorta. You can see the discoloration from the heat.


We did it!! Its better than it looks in this picture. This photo is the second to last time we bent it. Sadly the first couple body to frame mounting hole have to be reworked to where they where before I "fixed them". Don't ya hate that, when you have to rework your own rework to put it back where it was to began with??


In the end, all 14 body to frame mounting bolts and both cowl mounting bracket bolts go in nicely. The body does not contact the side of the frame anymore.. The drivers side door fits much better.

In other news, I am getting my steering wheel ready for paint. It was maroon & cream. I sanded all that off and then it became orange & silver. The maroon & cream sanded off easy but in some places I gave up sanding by hand and put it in the sand blaster with extra fine sand. I have a few hairline cracks to patch and its ready for paint. (The 4 big gaps you see in photo is where a piece of chrome fits)


Thanks for following along! Comments are always welcome.
Greg

 

What a great thread! Love the details and the clear pictures!

 

Thanks hotrodA !!
My thread has been dragging on for years and has big time gaps between new postings so I think a lot of guys don’t bother following along. I am glad to hear you are enjoying it!

 

Very clever work here. Great pics and detailed descriptions! Thanks for taking us along for the ride!

 

Thanks sproadster30!
Glad you are enjoying the ride with me!

 

Great build and really nice details with photos. Keep the updates coming.

 

Nice work



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I just read through the whole thread. Your attention to detail is inspiring.
As I'm just starting on a Roadster project, this has been of particular interest to me. Nice work.

 

Best detail I have seen on the hamb.

 

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the kind words guys!! Its way more fun to post updates when you know other Hot Rodders are enjoying following along!
Despite shoveling, snow blowing & plowing I was able to do some work on the 32 lately. I live 2 miles from Lake Michigan and we have this thing called lake effect snow. My picnic table on the deck looks like this.


Back to the 32. Now that I can bolt the body down tight to the frame I went under it with a flash light and looked all along the frame rails to make sure I have a good fit and no gaps bigger than the felt that goes between the body & frame. All looks good! Then I started to think about any other detail I needed to finish on the underside of the body. The only thing I thought of was the e-brake cable brackets. So with the cables attached to the backing plate on one end and the other end at the bracket by the floor brake handle I laid out the cables. I sorta let the cables run where they wanted to without forcing them. They made a nice big arc. Then I marked a few spots for a bracket. I taped them in place and checked where the driveshaft and mufflers will be and made sure the bracket will keep the cables from drooping down.


Next we flipped the body over and mounted it to my cradle.


Then I made two weld studs out of 5/16" Hex Head Cap Screws. I just cut down the head height and machined away all the plating so it welds nice.


All welded in place. They look random because that is where the cable laid out the best. I could have combined both onto one stud but then I would have had to tightened the radius of the bends of the cable and so I just went with two. I will need to buy a cable clamp. Probably a rubber coated one.


Now onto the Frame. After the body was off the frame, I inspected the frame rails for anything that looked like it was not sitting well with the body since the body has been around a long time and has had new rockers installed. I found this on the rear crossmember. The paint was worn down to the steel on the welds. I am not even sure when this occurred or if it is even a problem but I will fix it just in case.


So with a little measurement I put some tape on the body for a cut line. Sharpie markers are great but sometime a piece of tape is faster and easier to see. Normally I use green or orange tape which is even better to see than the blue tape. Here it is all cut back.

I did both sides so I won't have to worry about this again.


The felt that goes between the body and frame is .078 thick so that will help with other small irregularities.
Question - some of you guys that build 30's Fords, do you use this felt or is there something better??


Next on the list was to try out the battery box. "Mr. Arthritis" has moved into all my joints and fingers so I like to think about worst case scenario doing a task on my car like in a parts store parking lot or the side of the road while I am on my way to a cool car event. My car came with this battery box that my friend built when it was his car. It fits nicely under the passenger side floor attached to the frame.


It is hinged down so battery placement is easy without removing seat and flooring.


However, I will never be able to get to these bolts in from the top when the floor is in or from the bottom when the mufflers, floor & battery are in.


So I decided to weld two tabs to the battery box and two mating tabs to the frame tubing. Then I will bolt them together. This will hold the battery box in place and allow me to unbolt it and let it swing down. Tabs held in with C clamps in this photo.


I took the battery box out and welded tabs on.


Then I made tabs for frame. Ground them to fit shape of frame.


I tried some new Heavy 3/8"-16 nuts for welding. They use a 11/16' wrench as opposed to a standard nut which uses a 9/16" wrench. (wrench size doesn't matter in this case, I just mention that for size comparison.) When welding a nut on something, sometimes I melt the nut and it looks bad so I thought I would try these bigger nuts. (hey hey ... no jokes about my nut size..). If you look at the photo above I think it was successful
.


I still had to run a tap through them before I could put a screw in it.


Well here is the final battery box. I just need my son to come over and weld the frame bracket to frame tubing. I let him do the welding to the CrMo frame tubing. He is such a better welder. Now I can just lay on my back under the car, unscrew the two bolts and the battery is ready to fall on me if I forget to grab it. Problem solved.


That's it for now, thanks for following along,
Take Care
Greg

 

Ha !! Detail, and laughter. A great thread. Damn the time frame. Rome was not built in a day. 5 years of fun, is five years of fun. Thank you for that.

 

Hi Guys,
I got to thinking about my battery box and being under the car, maybe it would be a good idea to give it a little protection from flying debris from the road. These small batteries are expensive! I certainly would not want a stone to damage the battery. I remember in High School we were cruising in my friends 65 Mustang and I felt something on my foot. It was a 6 inch long piece of leaf spring sticking up through the floor right next to my foot. My friend said " yesterday when I was on the expressway I heard a loud noise under the car and wondered what it was....?"

So I made a sheet metal guard for my battery box. This won't stop a leaf spring but it might stop a stone.


This kind of work is fun. A little cutting on the shear.


Then a little polishing. This is my little secret right here. When I post sheet metal work on the HAMB I always polish it!! It really makes it look like I know what I am doing when you see nice shiny sheet metal.


I put a hem on the top edge to stiffen it a little.


A little beating on the hem.


The hem.


Then some marking for bending. This the hard part to decide where to bend to get the leg in the right spot.


Ready to try out.


Fits perfect! I will weld in place later when I have the actual battery I am going to use in case I need any battery box modifications.

Take care guys, ideas are always welcome.
Greg

 

Great work!

 

Thanks Guys, I am starting the bodywork stage so compliments are going to disappear on my work but my son is helping me so maybe his good body work skills will offset my pitiful work.

But first, before I went to the barn to work on the 32 I had to shovel. My grandson was driving his favorite car in the snow while I shoveled. Suddenly he says "Grandpa the car won't go!" I look and he is pedaling like crazy and the back wheel is spinning! MY GRANDSON DID HIS FIRST BURNOUT!! Okay maybe it was on snow but the fact is the back tire was spinning. I said you are doing a burn out! He looked at me real serious and said "No I am Not" So I had to explain the burn out thing to him. He seemed confused. Much talk on the HAMB about the future of our hobby but the hobby will be alive and well in my family.


Ok I have stalled long enough.. I have to show my body work. With the car upside down I am working on the lower 2 feet of the car that is easy to work on with it upside down. If the regular filler will be more than .03 to 06 I use Tiger Hair. I only use Tiger Hair for .06 - .12 , deeper than that I add sheet metal if I cannot get to it from behind to beat it back into the correct shape. Here is an area I needed Tiger Hair.


Then on to regular Rage Filler. After sanding it shows the high spots (where you see steel)that are tapped down with a body hammer.


Then more rage filler and more sanding. Starting to look better. At this stage my son takes over


All the other panels on the car look the same so I won't post pictures of them for fear I will put you all to sleep.. Fortunately only a few areas on the body needed Tiger Hair.
Thanks for following along.
Greg