I'm mating up an 8ba flathead to a T5 using a 50 shoebox bellhousing and wilco adapter. I'm having problems with the clutch fork staying engaged in the throw out bearing. Is the only thing that holds the fork inplace is the flat springs that wrap around the two bosses on the fork? It's also got that tiny spring behind the fork holding it in place, but it's always coming out. It's there a particular way to install this?
Post a picture of your clutch linkage, the geometry could probably be a little off. Or the retaining clips could be worn out and not seating properly.
Shouldn’t there be a pivot bracket inside the bellhousing for the fork to ride on ? There is one inside mine . Tommy
Heres a picture with the wilcap adapter plate in between the trans and bellhousing. The bellhousing has that L shaped mount riveted in that the fork pivots off. It also has that thin little wire spring that hooks behind it to keep it from falling out, but there's enough play that the fork keeps pulling out of the throw out bearing clips. Seems like a weird design which makes me think I may have it installed wrong. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hmmm, now I wonder if I'm pulling on the linkage arm away from the tranny instead of toward it. I'll have to look at that. That could be enough to be disengaging it Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Release bearing, Fork and clutch plate (fingers) documented to match up with each other? I don't think that stamped flathead bellhousing I have hanging on the shed wall has a fork in it and it's too late to stumble around in the dark to check. That mix an match parts don't always match perfectly seems to happen fairly often when we work on these things.
Well,,,it looks good . Have you manually cycled the fork through its complete travel . It really looks like it should work fine . I’m with 48Chev,,,,there must be a mismatch of components somewhere ? Is this going in a shoebox with stock linkage ? Tommy
No, it's actually in a 32 with a new linkage setup. The fork came with the housing, but the bearing came from Wilcap sized to fit the T5 shaft. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Remove the spring clip, take a picture of it. Ask Desoto29Hemi to remove his clip, and take a picture of it. Compare pictures.
Here are some pics of what I have. The first pics are of the fork centered in the housing,,and the back side of the fork with the spring and plate attached .
This set is of the spring ,plate,,and what’s left of the felt gasket off the fork. And the inner pivot bracket in the bell .
These are front and back pics of the fork. And pics of the spring that retains the fork to the pivot . Hope this was able to help . Tommy
I have no idea what this set-up is supposed to look like. But why does it look like the fork isn't properly engaging the collar of the T.O. bearing. Aren't the two lugs in the I.D. of the yoke supposed to be the contact point with the bearing collar? This pic makes it look like the rounded ends of the fork are showing wear from contacting the backside of the bearing. Wish I could see the other side of the T.O. bearing.
Interesting issue. As the photos show the Fork has a detent that sits over the Fulcrum. The spring clip does nothing but hold things in place until everything is connected. With all adjustments correct it can't (shouldn't) come off the fulcrum. You said the throw out bearing came with the Kit. I believe there and the P.P. may be where your issue lays. I'm thinking to much travel at full release letting the Fork get to where the detent is near flat and pressure point on the bearing is on the outboard edge of bearing retainer letting the Fork push itself off the fulcrum. In other words to much travel forward to keep the fork lodged on the fulcrum.
Slow thinking here but last year I had a job come in that the Front bearing retainer in a T-5 kit was just to short and at the end of travel let the bearing retainer slip over the front edge and grab the bearing and it would not return. Had to extend the retainer 3/4". Might check yours against a stock Ford unit for length in relation to travel needed.
The two lugs on the fork had a flat on it that pushed on the bearing. It's not wear, I just ground the flat off it to get better engagement on the bearing and so the clip can hold it. Is there supposed to be a little preload on the clutch fork as it engages the pressure plate fingers? I can see if that were the case, then it's difficult for the clutch fork to pull out because of the detent.
I agree with Claymart. Only The pegs on the fork are supposed to contact the TO bearing. I think you have this style TO bearing. Note the fork style. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/p...JFaWajYBwI_F0fOUAODT02Ztw02CbG7eFZ4FJBJcsziXQ I think you need a different fork, or a TO bearing more like this - http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm06r01.html http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm06r05.html http://pontiac.oldcarmanualproject....iac Shop Manual/06C-Engine Clutch/image2.html
I assume the pegs are supposed to fit under those clips on the backside of the bearing, right? My TO bearing isn't quite like this one in your first link. Doesn't have the hook for the spring on top.
Still looks like a mis-match of parts to me. A T.O. bearing something like what Dan Timberlake showed here ... http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1955/55csm06r05.html ... would look a lot more appropriate to me. And you wouldn't have had to grind any clearance on the ends of the fork. I suspicion that if you keep trying to re-engineer the parts you have to make them work, if you aren't already a "drinking man" you soon will be.
Haha. Yes I figured old Henry did it right the first time and didn't plan on some guy needing to fix it 70 years later. I wonder if I should go back to the original TO bearing and sleeve the output shaft to fit it. Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wanted to know if the stock T.O. Bearing had a tall or short housing so dug out a stock unit to look at. Wanted to back up my thoughts of being able to slide off the Fulcrum. Yes it will if it travels to far to release the Clutch disc. This should have nothing to do with your actual pedal linkage. Wrong P.P. and or bearing housing is only parts that can let the bearing move forward far enough to let the Fork slide off the Fulcrum. This is a photo of what I have that backed up my thoughts. Check your total amount of travel of the Fork. Past that the fork should not come off the Fulcrum.
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