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Technical Needed:Idiots guide for Model A Juice brake Conversion...?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Sid E. Burns, Jan 3, 2020.

  1. Sid E. Burns
    Joined: Jul 25, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Sid E. Burns
    Member

    So, i got this -29 Model A, with stock mech brakes. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/finally-the-29-barnfind-is-mine.1160762/

    While i rodded it i decided to keep the mechs, but the itch to be able to put a 4" drop front axle on her keeps growing.
    I´ve tried the search option, but can´t seem to find the answer....

    So, here i go:

    Is there a fairly "bolt on" option to convert her to juice brakes, using as much as possible stock?
    Maybe a coversion kit i don´t know of?

    I´m grateful for all help i can get from you guys!

    IMG_4921.PNG
     
  2. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 704

    brading
    Member

    Sid E. Burns likes this.
  3. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,778

    Ziggster
    Member

    Just curious as to how well the you like the mechanical brakes. I have Model A front and rear axles that I'm going to use for my build which have the mechanical brakes. I looked into adding hydraulic (juice) brakes, but parts for the conversion were about US$500 for each wheel (new drums/loaded backing plate), plus the cost of the hoses, master cylinder, etc. This seemed very expensive to me, especially with the Canadian/ US dollar exchange rate.

    Check out this site. They have everything you need.

    https://www.droppedaxles.com/brakes

    Speedway also has everything you need as well.

    Some more info.

     
    Texas Webb and Sid E. Burns like this.
  4. Sid E. Burns
    Joined: Jul 25, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Sid E. Burns
    Member

    Thanks guys!
    $3358.00 is quite steep, but it was exactly what i was looking for....

    Guess my A will ride high for a while still...:rolleyes:
     

  5. Colonial Coupe
    Joined: Dec 22, 2010
    Posts: 74

    Colonial Coupe
    Member

    32 to 34 front axle possibly up to 36 will get you some drop and you can still use the mechanicals. Dr. Dave has a good write up here on the hamb.
     
    Sid E. Burns likes this.
  6. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,857

    adam401
    Member

    Juice brakes are not necessary to lower a model A. My last coupe had a 32 front axle with a slightly de arched spring with a couple leaves removed up front. Out back it had a reverse eye spring.

    The use of 32 to 34 spring perch bolts allow the front brake actuators to be supported in the correct position when used with 32 and 33 to 36 axles. It essentially ends up being a stock brake setup. My car utilized 32 mechanical brakes but that isn't necessary.
    It wont get you slammed but its lower. Hope that helps a little as to your options
     
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  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,194

    manyolcars

    look for my post on this topic. It doesnt have to cost $3000 and stay away from crappy Lockheed brakes
     
    Sid E. Burns likes this.
  8. It is also possible to run that dropped axle with mechanical brakes. There are a couple of threads on here how to do it.
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  9. cederholm
    Joined: May 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    cederholm
    Member

    I'm converting the front and rear of my '30 A to 1939 parts for juice brakes, had to hunt down the original parts, but they are out there. I've seen some conversion service offered in the HAMB's classified. I don't know the person or the service, but I'm pretty sure to was to covert A brakes to hydraulic.

    ~ Carl
     
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  10. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

  11. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,538

    continentaljohn
    Member

    F286FAE8-629E-4F56-B807-B94319044BC9.jpeg You can get the sedan down with mechanical brake as said and Will be as Good as juice brake with properly adjusted system. This is a Buddys bitchen Model A ford sedan with 1932 front spring hangers and 1934 axle if I remember correctly .
     
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  12. Sid E. Burns
    Joined: Jul 25, 2019
    Posts: 57

    Sid E. Burns
    Member

    -Wow, that stand is PERFECT!
     
  13. patterg2003
    Joined: Sep 21, 2014
    Posts: 865

    patterg2003

  14. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,277

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    If you are running a four cylinder stock motor, as you picture a mechanical brake system will work fine as long as it's restored. I just finished rebuilding my '29 Model A brake system but you can't cheat. Every, bushing, roller, roller pins, tracks, levers, wedges have been replaced with mostly N.O.S. parts. Some of the reproduction parts needed to be machined to fit. Also new linings and cast brake drums. Every 1/16" of slop will reduce the efficiency of the system.
     
  15. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,538

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Sid E Burns if you need any more info on the sedan let me know and will talk to Matt.

    The t5 or any open drive conversion on the model a ford rearend need more reinforcements then the kits supplies. My old model was Dropped like Matts with mechanical brakes with a T5 open drive and model A rearend. The trailing arms have too much stress/load on the ends and will crack over time. I replaced mine a few times and went to a 1940 ford front wishbone with modified end to solve /strengthening the weak areas.


    Woodiewagon46 your are 100% correct and the brake system Must be in excellent condition.
    I have locked up my tires on my Mechanical brake cars Model A or 1932 fords plenty of times and feel they are as good or even better the Juice brakes.
    image.jpg A few tools to help set brake shoes are a must for full contact as most are thru experimentation or trial. As well as brake drum size being on or close to the max should be a NO No. the Armco brake gauge slides onto your spindle and the pin on the other end will act as the brake drum. This is so you can adjust the shoes with out the drum and use a feeler gauge to get 100% shoe contact. The central gauge measures the drum ID and a set of calipers would work as well but most folks dont have calipers 12 inches or a inside micrometer..
     
    Rich S. likes this.
  16. Phil P
    Joined: Jan 1, 2018
    Posts: 495

    Phil P
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

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