Projects Hillbilly Model T speedster (attempt #2)

There's is something bound up in the crankcase. I can still only drop the center 2 pistons down about 1/2" before it locks up again. I gotta go ahead and drop that inspection pan as recommended.

Good news is all the valves are free and pop up and down flawlessly with a mini pry bar.

Oh, and standard bore pistons...

 

Ok so the lower cover is off. Everthing looks good, and ridiculously clean for almost 100 years old.

Maybe the transmission is locked up? Starter?

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when you go to take off the starter, the drive must be removed first, and be careful not to bang up the magneto. and, dont loose the screws that hold the cover on the starter drive, they are a goofy thread and unavailable

 

Not likely the starter, i have had mine bind up twice and it wouldn't move at all either time.

On the plus side, looks like your engine is in much better shape than any i've pulled apart.

 

Is not the valves, or the lifters. The front and back pistons are free. The center two seem tight, but like i said i can drive then down a half inch (backwards rotation)

Now im thinking it's either the cam, or something in the bell housing...

Is there suppose to be hardware between the center bands in the trans?

 

Try jacking ONE rear wheel off the ground and using the crank to turn the engine over in "high" gear, meaning the handbrake is released and pushed all the way forward and the clutch pedal is in the rearward position (which it will be when the handbrake lever is pushed forward). When you do this, the transmission is not operating, but turning as one entire unit. In essence, it is just acting as a connecting shaft from the crankshaft to the U-joint and driveshaft. By doing this the rear wheel should turn freely. Alternately, try turning the engine/transmission assembly over by turning the rear wheel.

If it still binds, there maybe something lodged in between the flywheel/magneto assembly and the bottom of the pan/crankcase that is keeping it from turning over completely.

If this works OK, liberally pour penetrating oil concoction over the transmission drums-enough to cover at least 1/2 up the height of the drums and let it sit overnight or longer.

After a day or two of soaking, try pulling the brake lever back (rearward) just far enough to pull the clutch pedal down about 1-2 inches. This should engage neutral and eventually the rear wheel should stop turning by giving it some "braking" resistance ie- lowering it to the ground. If this goes OK, then you have likely created a neutral as well as low/first gear. This means your transmission is likely to be functional enough for a test run.

The innards of the lower engine look nice and clean. You are doing well. Keep up the good work and keep us posted. I bet you might have a running engine sooner than later!!!

 

I should add that either the crank case was either drained, or some how leaked out. It was bone dry before i started trying to free everything up...

 

Concerning the hardware on the bands as you pointed out above, the only thing missing is the spring. The low band your pointing to is adjusted from the large adjusting screw on the outside of the transmission. DO NOT loose the nuts and washers (they are special) from the brake and reverse bands. Generally you want to stuff rags down in the trans area when doing any work so parts wont go flying off and missing in the abyss. And when you put rags in, count them and write the number down to make sure you pull the same number back out. That is all more for when you have a running and operating engine, but still good advice to get into the habit of doing.

Remember, the flywheel contains many magnets, so finding missing hardware is not always as easy as one would think.

 

Right now im worried that missing spring fell into the bottom and wreaked havock.

 

If you have never removed a T transmission cover (hogs head) maybe now is the time. Are the bands free or stuck to the drums? Bob

 

The easiest way to find out what is locking it up is to simply tear down the entire engine. Really futzing with it is fruitless. It’s not going to run in the condition it’s in. The engine is so very simple to take apart. You’ll need to compress the high speed spring to remove the pin. And after the drive plate is off you need a puller to remove clutch hub. The clutch hub is a bugger and will probably need heat with either a home made puller or the ford tool available from Lang’s or others. Best if you can borrow that one though! Good luck and hopefully after a serious cleanup it will run without too many parts needing replacement.

 

I believe you are right! Honestly I don't know if they are free or not. When you press the pedals you can see the bands move a little at the top, but who knows what happening below...

 

Agreed. I just want to see it spin haha.

 

I hope to be going ahead with the springer install pretty soon. Honestly, it looks like it will be a pretty simple task. The Essex springs measure 24" inside, the T frame measures a little bit over 23" outside. So really its just a matter of fabricating some spring perches. and shackles. Oh and extending the frame horns.

I'll factor my caster into the rear spring mounts, and should be able to dial it in with shackle lengths. Then onto the rear suspension.

I haven't decided just how low I want this to be. For now I'll leave the front spring over axle and see how it looks. Spring under will net quite a substantial drop.

Onto wheels and tires, because I feel they are one of the most important pieces of any build. Im not looking to run wood spokes, and 17"- 20"+ wires I'm not feeling right now. I would like to stay into the "pre-war" type of build. Currently I am thinking 16" wheels and the smallest tires possible...

 

Did you get the rear wheels to turn freely? Bob

 

it rolls, but the hubs are loose. Previous owner did that. I'll tighten up that nut and try and giver' a whirl.

 

Be sure the axle keys are there. Bob

 

He may have removed the axle key(s) so it rolls. With good hubs, axle keys, and axles, when that nut is tightened properly (no torque spec, but approximately 80-100 foot lbs), the taper on the parts draw tight and require a wheel hub puller to get apart.

Highly doubtful that is the case.

Best advice is already as posted. Id drive those two stuck pistons out and see if it then turns over. If not, take the other two out. Somewhere along the line it has to free up. It wont be stuck on the crank, and probably not the cam either, but could it be stuck on the timing gears or lifters.

 

Bouncing around a bit. Started to clean up the front axle. A little bit of heat and everything came apart easy. Especially the lead eye bushings...

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@cactus1 could you get me a measurement of the distance from the front spring mount to the rear shackle mount on the frame please?

Also, i was looking at your pic for a bit. The tie rod infact does run upfront of the beam right?

 

Were those Z brackets part of the trailer conversion and the lead was just filler? Bob

 

Hope so, they're wasted now haha.

I'm planning to use 1/2"- 9/16" bar stock across the front. Have my buddy tap the ends of it, and drill it for grease fittings and castle nuts. I'll be making my own bosses and source some brass sleeves to replace the lead bushings.

Pretty much like this pic.

 

My spring fell out once. Never did find it but there was some (not much) metal when i changed my oil.

I was wondering if you could fit reproduction model A frame horns to the front to build the spring mounts on.

 

Think Chevrolet or any other four spring chassis would be a good doner. You would get the forged mounts for the front and rear of the spring

 

Going through my cabinets. Can't seem to find any of the parts i thought i kept. Don't remember stashing these gauges. The switch is a pretty badass piece with a built in fuse, don't know how period correct it is...

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Like these?

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Unbelievable weather we are having for January here. I had 45degrees today, that's about 65degrees hotter than this time last year!

I took advantage of the temps and went to a local honey hole.

 

For your viewing enjoyment

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^^^^^^^ Looks like a battlefield, That A chassis is really old with the open end bumper, check the number on the block. Bob

 

Everything there is toast. I took the rear half off that Buick years ago and mated it with an A cowl to start a AV8 tub. It never got finished. I really regret letting this one go, it had all the makings of one hell of a fast and fun rod.

Full race flathead, lightened flywheel, '39 toploader with zephyr gears, 4:10 banjo rear, '32 drop axle...