Getting ready to start the motor for the fist time this weekend. Plan is to run it long enough for cam/lifter break in.
Would have preferred a mechanical fan, but even with a two inch blower belt, that was impossible. Even to install this 16" Maradyne Fan, I had to order a 5 inch longer blower belt to move the tensioner pulley up to make room for the fan motor. The last thing I wanted was to see the fan mounted in front of the radiator where it would show up through the grille bars, so this should work fine. Next step is to make some mounting brackets for the fan.
Finished the brackets to mount the fan to the radiator. Made up the ignition wires and made a mount for the ignition coil. Waiting for the shorter poly locks (to fit under the Corvette valve covers) and a new blower belt. Once those are here, I'll adjust the valves, install the intake and it should be ready to start. Good way to start off 2020.
Fired up the 327 today. Everything worked out as it was supposed to. Motor idles good with the "30-30" cam and exhaust sounds great.
Getting the body ready for paint. Inside should be painted Wednesday and the underside of the floor Friday. Than I bolt the body on the chassis for the final time. I'll install the doors, decklid and fit the hood and grille shell for the final fitting, than pull those all back off and paint the body on the chassis. This way I know all my panels will fit correctly, with proper gaps. In the past, every time I pull a body off a chassis for paint, some thing always seems to change when it goes back on. Little more masking involved, but all my gaps will stay the same. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Excellent information, I'm fighting that right now. Took every thing apart to paint now all my gaps are a little tight. I think I'll try it next time, Thanks
Baron, I'm so jealous, but always happy for people getting close to driving their project. I don't know about steel bodies but the fiberglass roadsters require a bolting sequence. I know for a fact that is how the door gaps are established.
I've had two Wescott bodied Rdstrs that I spent many hours of shimming to get every thing aligned. The first time I mounted this Brookville body on my chassis, I snugged all the bolts down with out using a single shim and both doors opened and closed perfect and all the gaps looked good. Even all the bolts went in as they were supposed to ( sure wasn't that way on the repro chassis it was on before I bought it ! )To say I was amazed would be an understatement...lol. Fitting the hood and grille shell was also no big deal. Hoping it goes back on as easy this time. But at least if it does need a little tweaking, I won't have to redo any painted panels, doors etc. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Pete got the inside of body painted yesterday. Giving that a day to cure and Friday Jay will be applying the Wimbledon white to the underside of the floor. If all goes well, I should be able to drop it on the chassis by the end of the weekend. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Beautiful work Baron! I'm curious did you acetylene weld everything on this project? I recall seeing a torch in one of the photos and many of the welds have the look of gas welding. Can't wait to see the completed car, exhaust sounds perfect!
All the welding I did was gas welded. Jay Herbster who did 95% of the work on rolling the cowl and doors was heliarced together. I did tig weld the chassis modifications . Thank you ! Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Floor's painted and the body is back on the chassis. Time to fit the doors, trunk and hood one more time before paint. Sent from my SM-G950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app