Mopar steering boxes for cowl steering???

62-78 A and B body are the same, thats what everyone seems to be using here. 62-mid 70s C bodys are a bit bigger, but the same look and design. 76-78 F-bodys used the same thing as the A and B bodys. Look under the hood of any 60s or 70s mopar in a yard, if its a manual car, it likely the one you want.

Manual mopar boxes use the same 3/4" shaft and spline count that I think vega boxes use, as well as just about every other 3/4" shaft steering gear.
David

 

Great post

 

Here's a mopar box I saw at the GNRS, very slick set-up..

 

Did you get any photos of the support bearing(if there was one), or the pitman arm?

 

I second that request, if available! Very nice!!

Been pondering steering columns for the setup too. Can anyone comment on what they did for a short column to complete the package? Was thinking a tube with a couple bearings and a direct link to the box.

 

I got some triumph con rods, the caps are at a 45 degree angle, so I can bolt two together for a column drop. I will need to counterbore the holes for bolts. I found some tube that is close to the journal dia., and some bearings to go inside, with an I.D. of 3/4". I have some 3/4" drill rod, a spline adapter from Speedway, and a quick-release hub adapter from Speedway, so I can remove the wheel to make it easier to climb in and out. I plan to use an old 3 spoke "Superior 500 series" 13" steering wheel, I have a few of them.

 

COOL! Do a tech one your "mini column" when you're done! Would like to see what you come up with.

Oh yeah... anyone make a splined steering wheel adapter with a 3-hole pattern (like the early Bell wheels and most modern day wheels) that is NOT a quick release???? I can't seem to find one with a 3/4" spline.

 

Scooter.....Speedway Motors has a quick-release hub with a 3/4"-48 spline bore. Part No. 91032894. I can't even guess where you would find one that ain't quick-release.

 

YEah, I saw that exact one and was thinking "if only I could find that without the release". I guess I could just have the release and try to hid it with a cup integrated into the column or something with a way to access the release just in case I DO want to release it.

 

Just get a spline adapter and weld it to a big washer with three holes drilled in it.

 

That has DEFINITELY crossed my mind! LOL!

 

I searched all of his threads and could not find anything. Please post a link if you know were to find it.
Thanks,
Chris

 

• 1976-1979 Dodge Aspen
• 1970-1974 Dodge Challenger
• 1966-1976 Dodge Charger
• 1966-1976 Dodge Coronet
• 1966-1976 Dodge Dart
• 1966-1974 Plymouth Barracuda
• 1966-1970 Plymouth Belvedere
• 1970-1974 Plymouth Cuda
• 1970-1976 Plymouth Duster
• 1966-1978 Plymouth Fury
• 1968-1974 Plymouth Fury I
• 1968-1974 Plymouth Fury II
• 1968-1974 Plymouth Fury III
• 1972-1977 Plymouth Grand Fury
• 1967-1971 Plymouth GTX
• 1968-1975 Plymouth Roadrunner
• 1966-1974 Plymouth Satellite
• 1971-1976 Plymouth Scamp
• 1970 Plymouth Superbird
• 1966-1976 Plymouth Valiant
• 1976-1979 Plymouth Volare

 

I've got a problem with adapting the splined steering wheel end to a 3 bolt wheel, I did happen to find an NOS chrome adapter on ebay, but the chances of winning it are unlikely...does anyone make specific adapters like that NOT quick-release? You'd think there was something out there for a '40 Plymouth steering wheel adapter...

 

What about a Grant steering wheel adapter for a Mopar?

 

Do they fit a '40's steering shaft? I need to measure the shaft and count the splines, are they all pretty universal?

 

There is no link, he told me, the "old fashion" way, face to face

 

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2038,297_Steel-Couplers.html
This will go from splined shaft to 3/4" round, stick a short stub in there, and weld a big washer to the stub. Drill three holes, done.

 

Richard D,

This might be a dumb idea, but what about just using threaded rod for the upper bolt holes, and threading the con rods together? It might work out that they line up when tight- that way you don't need to cut into the rods.

 

I wasn't very clear; the hole where the carrage bolt is, where the rod caps had once been, would be counter-bored for a nut and bolt. The other bolt hole for the cap, may or may not have a pin stuck in there, probably won't need it. The holes where the wrist pins were (small ones at top of photo) would remain the same, and be thru-bolted to the dash support, pretty much like you said.

 

I'm runnin a mopar box in my 27 t...

 

Thanks for sharing those pics! I've been thinking about something similar.

 

Richard,

Gotcha- I thought you were going to drill through the upper cap area (where you may be putting a pin). Sorry for the confusion! I agree though, putting a pin in that upper bolt hole is a good idea and will keep the column more steady.

 

Yahoooooooooo! I've finally landed a mopar box for my RPU! Now this tech and another mopar box / cowl steer tech will be handy in making my project come together.


Leon

 

The Volare and Aspen manual boxes are 4.25 turns lock to lock.

-Shiny