I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I've looked at threads and became more confused. 1955 Ford Customline 6V Positive Ground. It wasn't starting. I had the starter rebuilt, new ignition switch and new solenoid. Battery is load tested and fully charged. Car starts when button is pushed on solenoid but only clicks (fast ratchety sound) when key is turned. Resistance from Battery Positive Post to Ground/Engine Block is .8 Ohms...Bat Post to coil is 1.8 Ohms and 1.5 Ohms from Bat to Solenoid ignition/starter post. I only have 3 wires hooked up to ignition switch (Yellow or Bat, Starter and Ignition to coil) Should I be going through the mess of wires in the instrument cluster looking for a bad ground? Is there a chance the solenoid (new) is bad? Any help appreciated....Thanks!
New solenoids are mostly made in China=cheap. But 90% of the time I have found that bad grounds are the problem with the clicking but not engaging the starter. I would check every ground first.
I'm not familiar with the 55 Ford. Is there actually a button on the solenoid that you can push to engage the starter? I could eliminate a switch on my break-in cart with one of those.
Agree on the grounds....I redid my 49 Dodge 3 years ago and cleaned all my grounds, afterwards i paint over the area with chassis black...
I second this, rapid fire clicking usually points to bad grounds. Battery to firewall and engine, back of engine to firewall. Check um pull um file um. Also " big" 6v cables. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
OK....I'm gonna keep checking for bad grounds. I did replace the engine to chassis wire, wire-brushed the contacts and spread dialectic grease on the bolts....I think there should be no resistance. If anyone knows a troubleshooting thread for this please refer me to it. The button on the solenoid is awesome! It's like having a remote starter in your system...there must be a test for the solenoid one can do with a voltmeter to make sure it's working properly....I'll look for a thread on that too... Thanks!
....it is my understanding that dialectic grease does not make a good electrical connection.. come on guys with more knowledge with this grease speak up... I would clean off all of the grease and try to start it.. miller
When you tighten down the terminal with dielectric grease on it, the grease will squeeze from between the parts that contact. The grease that remains will prevent corrosion.
I would clean terminals with something better than a wire brush. I would scrape them until they are shiny.
Yes...I'm going to clean off the dialectic grease, and maybe put a layer outside of the bolt... and really scrape the contact points. I was messing around with a continuity tester (on my voltmeter) and verifying where there was a connection (conductivity) ...my voltmeter makes a beeping sound. That is helping me verify that a wire or cable is grounded. Thank God for that LiL button on the solenoid...it starts right up. I don't need the key. I was driving down my dirt road today for the first time in months! It took me a long time to finally determine that the Ignition wire had come apart in the rubber insulator right where it connects to the ignition switch. It still doesn't start with the key (hence this thread) but at least it's able to be started up and moved around the yard. I might spend the cash and get a new Loom/Wiring harness...maybe convert to 12V...It's funny how lil electrical gremlins can shut down operation for extended time periods...Good Luck to any and all who encounter them!
If I remember correctly the button on the solenoid mechanically actuates the large contacts inside the solenoid, causing the current to flow to the starter. It sounds to me that either there is a poor ground at the solenoid mounting point at the inner fender, or the small terminal that actuates the solenoid is not getting enough voltage. I suppose it's also possible the solenoid is bad. Some ground and electrical tests are needed to confirm.
I agree with center on the poor ground on the solenoid it needs a ground to complete the circuit.to eliminate that possibility run a 10 gauge or larger wire from positive post on battery to a clean area on the mounting ear on the solenoid also make sure the bolts holding solenoid are clean
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