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Hot Rods What are yall coating inside panels with?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by thegearhead, Nov 8, 2019.

  1. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    On my 50 Crosley i just finished up the floor pans/tunnel and part firewall. idk if i just wanna go seam sealer then paint or a bed liner or? Deff be putting some sound deadening on them.
    So just seeing what you's used and what you like/lasted. Pics a plus haha
     
  2. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,637

    Dave Mc
    Member

    nothing adheres and lasts as well as EPOXY Primer to bare metal , then you can seam seal or spray liner or whatever
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
    Rich B. and Hutkikz like this.
  3. Joe Blow
    Joined: Oct 29, 2016
    Posts: 1,480

    Joe Blow
    Member

    86DD9D8B-B494-4FD0-B584-20B2AC167E9B.jpeg 0DC8D985-740D-40A1-A370-496F0B73175D.jpeg Really like this. 79.00 for a gallon at Amazon or from them directly. Water based, no smell and seems tough as nails. I got four coats out of the gallon in the trunk and cab of my A. Put it on with a 4” mini coater roller after primer and tractor and implement paint.
    [​IMG]
     
    catdad49 and Just Gary like this.
  4. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    o_O Coeating ? What the heck does that mean ? :D
     

  5. Epoxy
    Then bed liner or sound deadner
     
  6. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I would have to disagree. The most powerful primer is the aluminum pigmented moisture cured urethane. This primer is industry standard for combating rust and corrosion especially on marginally prepared services. This coating system will run 8000 hours salt spray on three coats .Epoxy will come apart at around 1500.

    Calcium sulfonate inner panel protector is a waxy type protector is loaded with millions of platelets to cut off the oxygen. I usually spray in the silver a couple of coats and then spray the calcium sulfonate over it inside the rockers and windshield posts
     
    manyolcars and Dave Mc like this.
  7. Dave Mc
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,637

    Dave Mc
    Member


    The products and process you outlined sounds good , I have seldom offered my opinions on the HAMB , probably because , Like this time , someone steps in and poo-poos what I've said . what I suggested has worked well for me over the years , I doubt many would ever endure salt spray for extended periods . the epoxy primer is an alternative for some who want a decent amount of protection , without going to extremes .I do live in a dry climate ( Nevada ) Thanks for the enlightenment . D Mc
     
    Rich B. likes this.
  8. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,194

    manyolcars

    I have wanted something good to coat the backside. THANKS!
     
  9. Elcohaulic
    Joined: Dec 27, 2017
    Posts: 2,213

    Elcohaulic

    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
  10. Tri-power37
    Joined: Feb 10, 2019
    Posts: 510

    Tri-power37
    Member

    3M makes a product called Cavity Wax Plus that comes in a large aerosol can with a special long straws (3 ft) or wand that has a special tip. The way the tip is made it soaks EVERYTHING inside any cavity you can fit the wand into. It’s horrible greasy waxy oil s*#t that never dries -which is what you want in those areas you can reach with paint.
     
  11. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Fluid-filled is calcium sulfonate and wax. I like the spray can idea. I've been using engine cleaning guns from harbor freight to spray this stuff really works good
     
  12. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I hate to get that stuff on me .As far as overkill goes I am at the extreme end of the spectrum In 1988 it was the same old bull about stopping rust and how all these products were better than the other. Nothing changes. I started my own coatings line because I wanted the most powerful primers and topcoats in the world I continue to keep my eyes open. I realize that these cars barely even see a rainstorm and lead a better life than I have but as Remo says in the movie casino' Why take a chance?
     
  13. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I'm sorry Dave I didn't mean to sound condescending. Your opinion and your experience are valued here when it comes to rust and corrosion am somewhat mentally ill. Again my apology
     
  14. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,589

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    I was wondering the same thing earlier this year. I ended up using spray on Rustoleum undercoating. It was inexpensive, a couple of cans covered the full interior of my 30 pickup. I was just looking for something to cover up the combination of red oxide primer and POR 13. I wanted something heavier than paint, something with some texture, and I considered bed liner, but while at the Home Depot for something else I found myself walking down the paint aisle and I grabbed a couple cans of undercoating on a whim, they were just a couple of bucks each. It did was I was looking for, and seems to be fine for now, until I get around to getting the interior done. The only downside is the smell, it remains rather strong months after applying it. But since the car has no side windows their is a lot of ventilation, and once you're moving the smell is not offensive, just when you first get in after it's been sitting for awhile. I assume that will eventually go away when the material stops off gassing.

    If I had it to do over I would probably go with bed liner, but if costs is a consideration, the undercoating is less expensive and it works.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2019
  15. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 5,354

    Fortunateson
    Member

    I suppose WaxOyl, a British product I believe, is basically the same
     
  16. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Yes that's a very similar product
     
  17. thegearhead
    Joined: Nov 23, 2015
    Posts: 51

    thegearhead
    Member

    I'm working with both new and semi rusted/painted metal i was just thinking of an epoxy sealer primer,seam sealer then some ebay sound deadening material then maybe some type of hard setting undercoating for the rear inside area.
     
  18. jvo
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 268

    jvo
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    I looked at your product, and might just try it. I have been using copper weld thru primer on bare metal ONLY because I can see that it doesn't start an inferno on the inside when you have to put a few spot welds, such as on the perimeter of a door skin, etc. I would love to put a permanent coating on the inside, but what about when you still need to do a few welds here and there? What happens to these coatings when the metal is red hot? Does epoxy primer burn off? Should I use something other than weld thru primer?
     
  19. chrisp
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,051

    chrisp
    Member

    Epoxy primer will burn off, stinks real bad and contaminate your welds. Weld through primer will melt and reseal around your weld to a certain point.
     
  20. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I like weld thru primer. That is what it's designed for. In defense of regular paint, I believe if the outside panels are good, and you epoxy the inside and seam seal, I would just paint it. JMO. Then insulate with whatever. I sure wouldn't want to be the guy who has to do repair work on all these bedliner deals though. lol. Lippy
     
  21. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I am also fan of weld through primer. As for the silver I've had customers weld through it and it burned back like a quarter a inch, this silver uses the same resin as Gorilla glue I've glued more than one thing together with the stuff. Use the weld through primer and then come over with the silver the first coat reduced and then the second coat full-strength for the bottom of the doors. I have one door skin that is glued on.Anybody that has wrestled with the lid of these cans knows what I mean.
     
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