Customs 56 F100 Frame - Opinions needed

Im trying to decide what I should do about the frame on our truck. After getting the engine out and some of the paint stripped off the frame I'm finding a few things that need fixing and if they cant be fixed, I should probably be looking for a new frame. What would you all do? Try to fix it or move on to another frame?

Here is the passenger side frame rail. The tapped holes had bolts run through them to hold the engine cradle. They must not have gotten it right the first few times because only 2 of the holes were used. It has dents in it from here forward like someone was banging on it with a hammer



The front frame horns were cut off at one point and these pieces of channel were welded in as a replacement.


The top and bottom frame rails on the driver side has been notched for some reason. Apparently done with a torch.


The driver side frame rail was cut away with a torch (you can see the jagged edge under there) and this piece of 2" flat bar was welded over the top of it. The welds to me look a little "cold"




And lastly, the trans crossmember was torched out at one point and now the frame is spreading and the cab is bottoming out on the rail.


I think I know what the answer is but is this fixable? I have 2" angle and flat bar that I can weld over the top of the passenger side rail and the frame will be boxed anyway, but how bad would it have to be to consider scrapping it and starting over? Is there an acceptable fix for the driver side?

Some more info about the truck:
Jag IFS is going in
390
C6 trans

 

The question is “ do you have another one available? “ if not you CAN fix this one.








Bones

 

its just steel, they're simple frames, fix it.

 

If it was mine I would try to fix it. There are problems there but they are not the kind I would be looking for a new frame over.

 

I don't see anything that is a real big issue and can't be fixed. I'd say you have one afternoon or a couple of evenings of not real hard work to spiff it up pretty nicely.
The beat up part you might want to straighten out before you weld up the unneeded holes. I'd find some bolts or mild steel rod that would fit the hole pretty good, stick it in so it is flush on the inside and weld it on the inside and then cut it off and weld it on the outside and grind it smooth.
The torch cut frame rails were most likely to clear big block exhaust or oil filter depending on where they are notched out. Cut the offending areas out, make and weld in patches.
Make sure that the frame horns are on right, grind the welds down and run a decent bead over it and finish it off or not finish it off.
I don't see any rust or rot and you didn't say anything about the frame being twisted or out of square.
You could probably have had a couple of those holes welded up in the time it took to read what I wrote.

 

I have a line on one. 2 hours away and I'll be stuck with a cab and engine I dont need, but the frame is unmolested. If I try to fix this one should I be adding material only? No cutting or splicing?

 

I bought some round stock just for that purpose. It seems the responses are unanimous-I'll fix it

 

Depends on the price of the one two hours away. With a little patience, you may turn a profit selling the cab and engine.... and have a perfect frame. Either way is right.
But if given my choice I would choose a good frame over a repaired frame.
People cut and weld on frames all the time, with what seems like no problem.
But, most OEM frames are built out of better/different steel than just regular mild steel. A lot of truck frames say right on them” Do not drill or weld”.
Your choice.










Bones

 

Yes, cut out the damage and poor work, hold the frame in place and weld in new steel. If you do it well it will be an invisible repair.

 

It depends. Frames are made from different grades of steel. Sometimes they get metal fatigue and will break right next to where you weld on them. Myself I would add some extra metal to reinforce any repaired places.

 

A lot of folks don’t understand that a frame, on any vehicle , “ flexes”. How much depends on a lot of factors. Therefore most OEM frames are made out of a grade/type of steel that is resistant to cracking, not unlike spring steel. Welding, cutting, drilling all comprises the strength of that frame. How much??? Depends. But it does weaken it.






Bones

 

What the price on the new frame?

what you showed while it’s work
Is not a huge deal
I would cut that all out and replace with new.
Few evenings or weekends and your back to new.


But if I had a choice and the price is not huge I would start with a new unmolested frame

 

$1100 and its a 4 hour round trip. And Id be stuck with the cab, engine, trans, rear axle, front axle, and I'd have to get a trailer. At this point my time is worth more to me so I'll repair the frame I have using the suggestions here. I just started working on it tonight and it seems to be going well.

 

Making the decision is half the battle!







Bones

 

my 56 pk is a original long bed 1/2 ton. I went and rounded up a short bed and a short bed frame intending on converting it to a short bed. After thinking it over for a few years Im not gonna mess with making it into a short bed truck.

 

Greetings, On my 56 I boxed my frame, welded up all the holes, welded nuts on the inside of the frame and metal finished for powder coat, Just a few recommendations. Start with the best frame you can, have a plan on the work needed, measure and verify, re-measure and re-verify. My Jag front is hard mounted welded in, some soft mount with rubber. Its pretty easy to install the Jag front, I only had to trim the inside of the frame a small amount.

 

hey DaveandDave

If you plan on using the truck just as putter around town kinda deal...fix what is there....if you plan on driving it and using it as truck...I would look at maybe doing a complete chassis swap...then you get modern steering and brakes and parts are more readily available...

Just throwing it out there...

Good luck either way you choose...
MikeC

 

What do you do about the vin number if you change frames? I know the process in WA, it's not super fun

 

you just cut the Vin section from your old frame and weld it over the Vin on the new frame. or graft it in and grind the welds smooth. some trucks don't have a vin on the frame. Ive never seen a 55 thru 66 GMC with a vin on the frame. And Every 55 thru 66 Chevy Pk Ive seen has a Vin on the frame?

 

Also keep in mind, the original tranny crossmember has been removed. It supports the front cab mounts. You can see in the last pic how the cab support is angled down, and the top of the rail is rolled out slightly at the top(support should be just about parallel to the bottom edge of the cab). These crossmembers pop up on ebay and the like fairly frquently, so maybe think about adding that back, otherwise the front clip will be an extra special pain in the ass to get lined up.

 

Where you located? (Hint: put it in your profile) I got most of a 1954 F100 chassis if your close. Not sure if there were many changes from 54 to 56

 

I have bought and sold a lot of vehicles, here in Oklahoma, for nearly sixty years. I have never had the DMV ever check a frame VIN. But all of my vehicles have been somewhat stock appearing. But every state is different.





Bones

 

Prior to 1981 (I think), vehicles used the frame for identification. The "vin tag" located in the door jam, glove box door or wherever, was usually just a warranty tag. In fact a lot of them right on the tag say something about not for licensing purposes. In 1981 or thereabouts, the VIN system came to be and vehicles started going off the number in the windshield. So on older cars and trucks, your paperwork should match the frame (and warranty tag).

I suppose if the donor frame and cab had a title, you could swap your stuff over, unscrew the "warranty tag" that also has the vin and you would be good. Cutting a vin from a frame and welding it into another is illegal. I guess if you had both frames/titles you can do what you want. WA state makes you have the vehicle inspected after using two vehicles to make one, and you have to have all paperwork for both rigs. And they do check the frames. I recently bought a truck with no title and had to have it inspected for the process. They went off the frame vin, the tag in the glovebox was gone anyways, but they didn't even look.

I guess if you ever sell it, or get in an accident with it, and it's discovered that the title does not match the frame, it could cause a lot of headache.

I am not trying to argue, just saying what I have heard

 

So your telling me every single 55 thru 66 GMC truck ever made doesn't have a vin because the frame isn't stamped? and the stainless steel tag spot welded to the cab isn't a Vin? That what I always thought was a vin is a warranty tag? Sounds like you Heard a lot of baloney

 

53-55 frames are the same...shocks had eye holes top and bottom.....56 frame shocks have studs....Other than that they're the same...

 

Like I said in my post, I am not arguing. Just going off what the WA state patrol told me a couple months ago. Maybe it was only in reference to Fords, that what I was having inspected. It has the frame stamped and a tag riveted in the glove box

 

Gotcha! I guess it’s different in every state. With me, they have always just looked at the door, glove box, frame on a bike, to give me/ change a title. But also I come from a rural area and most folks know me. So the matter of something clandestine is out of the question. I have never had to find a frame VIN on a car or truck, only motorcycles. Also I have never cut two or more trucks up and made one, like chop shops do. Just my experiences!
That’s one reason why I like rural Oklahoma.

Also we don’t tag utility trailers in Oklahoma. When I got a tag for the small two wheel trailer I pull behind my motorhome it was a small problem. I hade to invent a VIN, establish a value, stuff like that, to get a tag so other states wouldn’t hassle me about no tag on my trailer.






Bones

 

I say get the good frame you will feel better about it .time wise it will take longer to repair yours than to go get the other one

 

The vin and a matching title is a big deal for me. In Kansas, if you don't have that , it is titled as an assembled vehicle. Different taxes follow as well as trying to sell on down the road and not having a tile as the model. Most all steel can be repaired. Be honest about your skills and experience. If that's out of your range, don't risk the safety of the build.

 

Before I invested a lot of money into a build I would much prefer an original frame in good shape. I would also demand the numbers matched the paperwork. I would not trust what someone at the DMV or other government agency told me unless it was in writing and then I would need to verify it with the state codes. I've been through too many dog and pony shows with highway patrol, sheriff officers, city cops and DMV personal. If you have a proper title with numbers that match everywhere on the body and frame there is no question. Anything else is up for grabs depending upon the stage of the menstrual cycle of the person giving advice.