Hot Rods Intake Bolt emits oil/need to seal

Any suggestions how to keep this bolt from leaking spent oil?
This happens after the engine warms up..leaves a little puddle in the crevice.
Wiping it up every time we go for a spin.
I have torqued it down all she will go, and there is a lock washer under the bolt.

 

RTV black silicone is what I use on them all. Stops the wicking, prevents the ticking, bolts still come out without sticking. .

 

I had this issue with my newly bought '89 IROC. 3 trips back to the dealer...once for oil, once for antifreeze, 3rd time for both.

Said fuck it after it leaked again.

Pulled the intake, sprayed brakekleen though all the intake holes on the heads. Waited a few hours. Used liquid teflon stuff on the bolts.

Changed the oil.

This was around '91-'92, my kid now drives the car with near 200K on it, still sealed up and dry.

 

Thank you much for both suggestions.

 

Billy is a poet and he didn't know. Or does he ?

 

But his feet show it!................they’re “ Longfellows”.








Bones

 

You sure that isn't gas dripping down from the throttle shaft of the carb

 

thread sealer with teflon paste works too.

 

Get rid of the lock washer.

 

Copper washer. Permatex #2 on the threads.. I thought it was gasoline too.

 

That's not a lock washer. That is a bolt loosener.

Split lock washers are worse than a plain washer, or no washer, at-all.

Says who? NASA.

 

With nearly 8 pounds of fuel pressure it is a possibility.

 

That looks like a triple two barrel intake.

If you have Stombergs up top, you are WAY over pressure. You need a fuel pressure regulator.

I run those at 2-1/2psi.

 

There is a sealant called "stag" that was developed by rolls royce that I use as a thread sealer and on core plugs. Its worked every time i have used it but it is hard stuff to get hold of.

Sent from my SM-A105G using Tapatalk

 

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/pipe-sealants/pipe-sealants/wellseal-jointing-compound/f/7987

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Cat used to market a RED liquid thread sealer ( like Hylomar) that worked well for many things , John Deere had a green( go figure) Teflon type paste that worked well , good ol' permatex #2 form- a- gasket works on a number of things ,none of them is fuel ( gasoline) proof , some are gas resistant but break down with time .gasoline ,like brake lines , should be a mechanical , no sealant/ dope / tape , seal. The problem lies with the quality of today's poor quality fittings , it necessitates the use of something , unfortunately !

 

Just checked my tube.

Loctite 565.

 

"The problem lies with the quality of today's poor quality fittings , it necessitates the use of something , unfortunately"

You can still get Weatherhead / Eaton fittings and they are reasonably priced. But most supply companies prefer to carry the slightly cheaper generic ones.

But then again, I haven't had problems with the generic fittings anyway. I'm not talking about the horrible cast brass pipe bushings and fittings, which truly are abominable as they often will screw in to the shoulder before proper thread engagement.

 

I have seen where fuel will drip and puddle in an intake crevice and overtime it will look and feel like varnishy - oil. I run lower fuel pressure on my tri-power - I want to say 3.5 pounds I set it so many years ago can’t remember now and I can’t see it when I am driving.

 

Mr. Feynman, I presume?
He wrote a couple really interesting books. A very clever guy.

 

A curious character.

Sent from my Trimline

 

Same outfit that paid 70K for a hammer, another 10K for a toilet seat?

 

Naw , that was the Pentagon ...

 

lol