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Hot Rods 1932 Brookville roadster floor advise ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by wildwest, Aug 31, 2019.

  1. wildwest
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 375

    wildwest
    Member

    Hi ! I have a Brookville 32 roadster body, and an original firewall, and purchased a Brookville one piece steel front floor piece, which looks like it will fit great with some fine tuning. How do you guys usually go about attaching the floor to the subrails & firewall ? The trans (TKO600) sits high enough that I basically need to cut the floor into two pieces to go around it. Screws? nuts & bolts? weld it in? I guess I don't really need it to be removable, do I ? Same question goes for stock style seat riser to the floor/sub rails?
     
  2. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,525

    alchemy
    Member

    My 32 has a more stock style than a TK whatever trans, but it has had the front floor out a couple times in the decade it's been complete. Sure makes it handy to work on brakes, trans, and steering stuff. I suggest you make the front floor removeable. I always build stuff with the idea that I will need to work on those components again.
     
  3. 26hotrod
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 1,151

    26hotrod
    Member
    from landis n c

    My 26 ford coupe is built with a wood floor that is easly removable. My car is on a 32 frame that is narrowed for the T-model body and it is so easy to work on master cylinder, auto trans linkage, and anything else under that front wood floor. Besides that3/4 inch marine plywood floor makes a good sound barrier. God speed on your project.....
     
    town sedan likes this.
  4. You can weld the Brookville pieces in, then build your trans cover where you can screw it down.
     

  5. wildwest
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 375

    wildwest
    Member

    I was looking at it, and I think welding might be the best bet. Once I cut the floor in two to fit around the transmission, then slot if for brake & clutch pedals, it might be pretty weak if I don't ? what about attaching the firewall to the floor ? I plan on having a hinged access door over the brake & clutch master.
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 20,525

    alchemy
    Member

    The firewall bolts to the frame. Then a rubber gasket goes between the firewall and cowl band. Essential for proper alignment. The body should be independent of the firewall to be able to make the fine adjustments to get your doors aligned.
     
    seadog likes this.
  7. wildwest
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 375

    wildwest
    Member

    Cool, thanks. Maybe I could put some kind of weather stripping or some split rubber hose where the floor meets the firewall to eliminate squeaks and rattles, but still keep them independent.
     
  8. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Below is an early construction shot of the floor in my Brookville body with '32 firewall. The main floor is Brookville and is machine screwed to the body's stock nuts. The separate toe board pieces and T-5 trans tunnel and also all machine screwed together, making engine removal and clutch/brake maintenance much easier.
    upload_2019-9-2_7-52-44.jpeg
     
  9. wildwest
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 375

    wildwest
    Member

    Cool, thanks ! Same floor I've got, but my trans sits higher and the floor is basically split by the trans. That looks good. I'm using the same e brake handle too ! did you build a bracket off the trans for it, or the chassis ?
     
  10. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks. The bracket I made for the Model A handle bolts to the T-5.
     

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