Hi new to this site, looking for some advice, Just took my 51 F1 out for the first run since getting it put back together, Its still running the Flathead and the temperature gauge was reading around 220 degrees Fahrenheit, when i got back to the workshop the radiator header tank had blown out not burst but noticeably blown. is it running too hot? and any recommendations or suggestions please. Thanks in advance.
it's a bit too warm for comfort and maybe you have the wrong radiator cap, if it has a large original type radiator tank, it should have no more than 7psi rating on the cap
Your leaving a lot to the imagination, new radiator or original?, radiator cap/ what type of fan? is the engine rebuilt? we need more information. HRP
I've been there. ( In a '50 Coupe) I think you have bigger problems. Heat should not expand the tank like that unless it was damn hot. You may have got it that hot, let's hope so because the other reasons are costly. Do you smell gasoline in radiator? Cool....with the cap off at idle.....rev the engine. If coolant erupts......that's bad. My problem was a cracked cylinder but a blown head gasket and cracked block can do the same.
Maybe the leaking tank caused it to over heat. Fix the tank, get a 7lb cap as squirrel said and run it. But check the temp with a heat gun or a good known to be correct gauge. Who knows how accurate the original gauge is.
might also check for bubble coming out of the radiator when it's full, the cap is off, and the engine is idling.
Apologies for the late response and thank you for offering some in put, its the original engine & Radiator, the radiator it flows well, I've had a new cap fitted and its 4Lb pressure, I've fitted new thermostats, I've done a leak test and this indicates no exhaust gases getting into the system, i have no oil in the water and like wise water in the oil.
Hi thanks for your input, the truck has been converted to 12v and its running the replacement gauges from the early ford store so all electric, came with all the required senders so i would hope it reading reasonably true, but will buy a heat gun and check as they only supply a sender for one side, May be have an issue on the side with No sender? Im currently running a 4lb cap so am very surprised the tank expanded.
i have done a leak test on the rad and this indicated no exhaust gases in the water system, and as i commented in another users response no oil in the water and no water in the oil, i have installed new thermostats, allowed the engine to run with no cap until i was very sure i had displaced any air, initially it did spit water out, after i ran it with no cap it settled down and if you revved it it didn't erupt but did raise a little in the top of the rad.
I don’t see any way your tank would expand with only a 4 lb cap Are the thermostats accurate and working??? They can be checked by placing them in boiling water with a cooking thermostat. Some thermostats inhibit flow even in an open position. https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112889&showall=1 Next. You radiator cap may be causing this increased pressure. I wouldn’t run anything over four pounds. You can check your thermostat the same way. https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121173 Next. If your cooling system is operating correctly and you don’t have a cracked block or blown head gasket your next check would be your vacuum advance system. The old distributors on your engine have a bad reputation. Many change them altogether. The advance diaphragm in the distributor gets brittle and fails over the years. Easy to change. Also check your vacuum hose condition from the distributor to the carburetor. It should be hooked to the venturi port at the carburetor NOT the manifold. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67315
Its a brand new cap, and brand new thermostats, the thermos stats are opening as you can feel the hot water run through the pipes when they first open, They are 95 Celsius thermostats from Ecklers/Macs i fitted them today, going to check the temperature with a infrared heat gun when it arrives, Interesting about the vacuumed advance my distributor has the diaphragm but no pipe and no fitting for it on the carb, so i am guessing good be running hot due to a timing issue? would this also be a cause of the pressure.
(No advance) would be the cause of overheating. Increased pressure is the cause of all the things we have mentioned in the previous posts above. Good that you changed those items. Now let’s get your advance working and see if it takes care of your overheating. A lean carbureted condition will also cause overheating. Let see your plugs?
Plugs are new only done about 7 Miles may not be much of an indication, Will pull them next week when m back at work as its there.
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