The Fairlane "may" need new front drums. If they are like the rears I know it'll need new front drums. This is what I have run into..... Ford pressed the drums and front hub together. Sounds like a simple matter of removing the studs....separating the assembly, replace drum and install new studs. Technically the front drum does not have to be pressed on. It can be floating like a rear drum. But..... The new studs will not fit tightly in the hub. I had a broken wheel stud on the F1 15 years ago...drove it out replaced it....works fine. The new studs....will not fit. They are loose. Something has changed with wheel studs in the last 15 years.... I guess something got lost in the translation from English to Chinese. Students... The proper way to do this repair is to press the old studs off and press the new studs to through the hub and new drum. OK professor. This does not change the fact that the new studs are too small. This would be better handled by a pro with the equipment. Easy Peasy....I'll take it to the machine shop..... There's not a Machine shop in Alabama that'll touch this with a 10 foot pole! Another option.... They make this hole saw thingy. With this thing you can cut the drum around the wheel stud to separate the assembly thus leaving the factory press fit intact. But now the new drum will not fit the hub. You have to slightly drill it out. You just expand the hole with the right sized bit.... Still this is not ideal. It goes back to the press fit and nobody will do it. You can see the simple matter of changing front drums has turned into a major project and a project that's a big pain in the butt. Other than disk brakes. Is there a good solution for this?
Honest question, If the studs are out and the holes are too big, what would the machine shop be doing? And what does the hole saw method do, make an even bigger hole for an oversized "rescue" stud? Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions. It's early.
I thought the hole saw was used to cut off the "swaged" part of the stud, so you can press it through the hub without enlarging the hole in the hub. But I might be thinking of Mopars..
I've never thought much about just doing a little machine work on anything when it comes to working on Old Iron and solving issues. Just seems normal to me and part of the job. Sorry to hear Alabama doesn't have any real machine shops. What do you do when you run into a real problem?
Are the correct studs a slip fit that get expanded to fit the hole, like a rivet? Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's what I did: •If you have a parts store that has real paper parts catalogues, get the one (Dorman, Raybestos, etc.) that has the stud dimensions in the back part of the catalogue. Use the chart for SERRATED shoulders. •Use your/their calipers and measure your old stud at the shoulder diameter and length. You already know the thread size. •Find that set of dimensions in the list. The next part number should be one with the next larger shoulder. •For the new dimension, the list will show the hole dimension required to press the stud in. •Drill the holes out to that dimension or just undersize, if you're drill bit challenged. •Press in the stud, or use suitable support like a socket and drive it in with your favorite bfh. •If all else fails and the hole is just too big for a interference press fit, or the correct stud is not available, a couple of hot welds on the backside will hold it. Use a good wheel to locate and center the stud.
Yes and no. The knurls should be a press fit and hold it in the hub. The swaging...like a rivet locks the hub and drum assembly together. Years ago it was simple to change broken studs on the my 51 Chevy car. I drove the old ones out and replaced with new ones. I did the same with a broken stud on the F1. On the 65 F100 last year when I replaced the drums, the new studs were loose. So I had to reuse the old ones that were still good, they did fine. I had tack the back of the new replacements to the hub. These were supposed to be the right studs. I'm really not crazy about that repair.
Go find some good used wheel studs. I would rather have original used than any brand new marginal junk. You could redrill smaller holes in your hub spaced between the original ones.
The hole saw or cutter cuts the swage or a portion of the drum around the base of the stud That way you can separate the drum and hub. This leaves the wheel stud in the hub. If you cut it close, you can press the stud out of the hub as Squirrel mentioned. This is done to a hub and drum assembly. What a machine shop should do.... The machine shop should, cut the swage, separate the drum and hub. With the swage cut they can now press the old studs from the hub without damage. After this, new studs are used and pressed into the hub. The new drum is installed and the bases of the wheel studs are pressed or swaged over the drum making a one piece assembly. Now, I have been successful in the past by driving out broken studs and simply pressing them on by tightening the lug nut. The knurl contact was good enough but that was yeas ago. Using backyard methods, the knurls on the studs I used last year were too small allowing the stud to turn. Backyard methods can also ruin the hub, by warping the hubs or elongating the hole.. I would prefer a shop to do it but nobody local wants to fool with it.
When you say loose do you mean just slip out or wobble in the hole? I have a set of K-D wheel stud swages I could loan you if you want to pay the freight both ways. If the drum center hole fits tight to the hub the swageing to the studs is not necessary the backs works ok. early Ford with the counter sunk heads are different
.....and having a really big hammer. I'm just looking for a way to do this right. This is one of those things that seems simple ...but it's not.
What year of Fairlane? Without that exact info guys are pissing in the wind trying to come up with the correct answer that works and many three out of a thousand remember what year it might be.
Find somebody that dirt races in your area. Very common thing to change the wheel studs out, somebody will have a press, they need them for changing gears, pinion bearings etc. Another group is the off-roaders, 4WD guys. There's somebody around that can help, doesnt have to be a certified "machine shop". This sort of thing happens all the time. Good Luck
The above information is the correct way to do this. The cutter (much beefier than a hole saw) cuts the swaging at the base of the stud where it meets the drum. You have to cut enough material so the stud can be removed from the hub without damaging the original hole in the hub. Press new studs in and install the drum and swage the new studs to hold the hub and drum together. It's really a pretty simple operation, but, you have to have the right tools. You need a cutter, a press, and the correct swaging tool. The only general machine shop left in my city does not have the correct swaging tool for Ford anymore so I'm looking to buy one.
Well we really do need the exact year of Fairlane as they show both press in serrated studs and swedge studs for up to 64. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/cars/wheel-and-hub/lug-nut-amp-studs/ I'm thinking part of your machine shop issue is that the shops aren't old enough to have the needed tools or experience for this. A job shop machine shop can probably mill off the swedge but won't have the tool to swedge it back. You aren't or shouldn't be cutting into the drum to cut that out.
The drum can be floating just like a rear drum. As long as the wheel studs are tight in the hub and the drum fits flush to the hub it should be fine. I would rather have the assembly swaged together but it does not have to be. Really with these old cars the last thing we need to do is let some kid at the tire shop go to town on the lugs with his air gun. " Top of the world Ma!!!" Zip zip zip pop!
Cut the rear swedge area with a hole saw, then hammer the studs out (from the inside out). Separate the hub and the drums, go online and find the right stud (length, shoulder depth and knurl). Even if you have to go up a size in knurl then use a reamer (not a drill bit), hog the holes out and backyard press in the new studs. Also check the new drums for hole size, you might need to open those up to make a slip fit over the new studs. This way in the future you can always easily put new drums on.
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