I thought I saw that someone made a replacement brake pedal for the '32 Ford with a '39 trans. It had the lever moved to the bottom. Drake has one for the "36.
I don’t understand your question, the brake pedal doesn’t have anything to do with the transmission does it ?
http://www.industrialchassisinc.com/new-product-1932-ford-bolt-in-brake-and-clutch-pedal-set/ Is this what you're looking for? This pedal assembly is used with a stock K member.
I used the stock '32 pedal assembly with a bracket I made to mount the '39 master cylinder behind the K member (see attached). Charlie Stephens
I have not done it myself by I thing it would work. It used the stock mech. brake bellcrank and linkage but mounted a M/C on the pass side of the trans where the parking brake was.
Vern Tardel has a book on brake conversion for '32 in which he mentions a complete pedal he sells...but I don't think it exists on his parts site. I've seen other such mentions in his books. Maybe he is planning a line of parts? Anyhow, most common route was to cut off stock lever and weld it to bottom of pedal or use an equivalent fabricated piece down there. The Norwegians have posted a conversion here mounting MC in the triangular space in crossmember pointing forward with a Ford brake rocker moved over to transfer the stock pedal movement forward! Shop Ford Brakes - Hydraulic Brakes for Your Early Ford - Book #3 $11.95 Ford Brakes - Hydraulic Brakes for Your Early
With stock cross member a simple bracket is needed. They are sold someplace. I will have to check. My Coupe My Roadster. Sorry best photos I could find.
This is how mine was done by previous owner, but with today’s laws, down here, it may need the welding to be crack tested or similar.
I had a Lacy and just sold it. How do you get ahold of Vern Tardel ? No phone number, tried using he message board on his web page, sent a text, but no answer.
I let the stock pedal pull, not push...then I run about 46" of 3/8" steel rod turned down and threaded 5/16"-24 for about 1.5" on each end...mounts the master in the trunk... no carpet trap door to add fluid.. then a belcrank, pull rod to the bottom where I drill [3] holes that give an option of changing the mechanical advantage... with the master cylinder at the upper end, now pusher end... by mounting the master cylinder above the wheel cylinders I did not use residual valves... only pic … the 5/16" pull rod is painted red...
I got this from an old man who said he got it from a guy named Henry. That it came from his super rare stash of parts