Technical Cracked 8BA

Hello, I only seem to show up here when I need something ... be understanding. My builder sent me a picture today of my cleaned block and it has a crack maybe a half inch deep into the port spanning across to the cylinder. Not the first time you've heard that --- I know. Anyway ... in a post titled 'Cracked Flathead Block' {in here somewhere ...}, there's information on doing Lock-N-Stitch. Is there enough metal between the port and cylinder to repair this thing with Lock-N-Stitch?

1. I'm assuming that after the stitching, a hardened valve seat will have to be cut into the block at all 16 locations;
2. Also, the affected cylinder will need to be sleeved;
3. Is there a water jacket between the valve port and the cylinder here or is it solid cast iron?
4. If this crack can be repaired, I'll get the block magnafluxed before going any further. Just to see if there are other flaws before delving deeper into this.

I'm in North Carolina. You guys know anyone in Virginia or North Carolina that does Lock-N-Stitch?
Anyone have similar experience here?

 

Hopefully the crack doesn't go into the valve guide area. There have been many similar cracks fixed just like you said. Lock-n-stitch then sleeve that cylinder. I don't see why you'd want to change all the seats out if the rest are good though. Just do that cylinder.

 

One of my favorite "sharing secrets" machine shops. They're very adept at fixing what would normally be ... wadded up, racing 4's. Several interesting flat headed engine repairs, on his site.

Many tractor oriented, diesel operator, old school styled machine shops can do the same, nearer to you. Pretty cool stuff.

 

I know Tatro personally.... I also use Loc-N-Stitch and have saved engine blocks with it. It's a great product and fun to use!!!

It will fix your block if prepped and installed properly.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

As a back-up to crack repair or as a general tonic for dubious old engines, has anyone here experience with sodium silicate/water glass? I've seem it recommended in various 1920's repair books, and Moroso sells it now as "ceramic seal". I have seen it recommended also for heavily ported drag engines...probably now an obsolete use now that every one runs aftermarket heads with huge ports.

 

Hope this helps

 

There is a product called "DYKE" which is the same thing. Works very well, have used it on several Model A's.

 

I had a block fixed with the "stitch" method years ago and it still is fine. This was a flathead V8 Cadillac motor with cracks in two valve bowels coming up and running down into the cylinder walls. The machine shop stitched from the bottom of the bowel to the cylinder wall and then bored out and pressed sleeves in. This was back in 1994.

 

Thanks for sharing the tech guys.