I had one of those in the van version back in the 70's. I put a 289 V8 auto in it with factory parts. Just get a V8 crossmember from a newer van. I also changed the rear end, but don't remember what I used, it was the 70's after all.
Back in the early '80's I put a two barrel Pinto carb on a 200 CI Ford motor, it ran good. Of course, I had to use adapter,. The pinto carb was a progressive linkage carb.
If you do decide to hop up a six, Clifford makes some good schtuff. https://www.shop.cliffordperformance.net/main.sc
That can't be an actual Econoline, as the whole bottom of it has not rusted off Very solid looking FC. Enjoy the snot out of it!
There's one in the field next to our place here, a window van, that I would like to have. But... you can crawl through the holes in the rockers and floors. Not-rusty ones are as rare as unicorn farts here in MO.
I just checked Clifford, they make a kit for this...$699... If I had only known. to tell the truth, it was not hard, just had to do something with the throttle linkage, must not have been much.
I have a lead on a running 200 motor...is this an easy swap? Aren't the mounts the same as the 144? Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes. It is a bolt-in*. On later year ones, you might need to fenagle a throttle linkage, but that's easy. *The 144 uses an 8-1/2" clutch. Later 200s use a 9" clutch. Mid-generation blocks have both bellhousing patterns. This is a dual-pattern block. Some of the holes are common with both patterns. The easiest way to determine clutch size is to look at how many bolts hold on the starter. If it is just two bolts, you have a 9" clutch. If there are three, you have an 8-1/2" clutch. A strange quirk of automotive convergence, a mildly modified 8-1/2 flywheel accepts a Mercedes 190E pressure plate. You just need to tap the untapped holes to 5/16"-24, and reduce the height of the step from 1" to 0.870", during the resurfacing process. If you pry the throw out bearing from the bearing carrier, you can put the 190E throw out bearing right on, too. That's the carrier, with the Mercedes self-aligning bearing on it. No modifications. You can buy a 190E clutch, from stock, to stage 5 carbon-Kevlar metallic. You just have to have a clutch shop put the correct hub in it. Everyone says that you cannot get a new 8-1/2" clutch, and that the re-manufactured ones are terrible. Here's your workaround. Incidentally, I have a BW T56 behind a 200. How's that? The native 190E clutch disc is the exact same spline as the T56! With an extended Ford to GM pilot bushing, and a MeLeod adapter, drilled for the 8-1/2 bell, it just bolts together!
Gimpyshotrods, Thank you so much for this reply! It's awesome to have this forum and great people that offer up this kind of help/time. Will be pulling the wheels off of it today to take them to work tomorrow for blasting (I'm a welding and coatings inspector/quality manager at a welding shop). The guy that has the motor also has a pile of wheels and other random parts I'm gonna dig through next time I'm there. Probably going to find some 14s instead of these 13s. Planning on flipping the front axle to the top of the leaf's. Looks like I may have to cut the bump stop mounts down a bit, which is doable. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not sure if 15s would work without some major modifications Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well...brake pedal has been locked up...so I pulled the brake lines to see if relieving pressure would help. Bone dry. I then pulled the cap off master cylinder to find this! Apparently the cap was left off for some time and it is pretty bad. Nonetheless, I'm going to attempt to rebuild it before I buy a new one. Mac's sells a kit. Having a hard time getting the old piston out though! Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Rock Auto has rebuild kit as well: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...e+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder+repair+kit,1840
Love the Econoline and even better that it was your Grandpas. Years ago my brother and I pulled the tired 200 six out of his Ranchero and replaced it with what we thought was a good running 200 six. It ended up being a 144 and while it ran like a watch it would take 10 minutes to get it up to the speed limit lol. Young and dumb and good times.
That looks near identical to the master in a '49 Ford sedan. A real pain in the ass to replace lying on your back in the garage with the car on stands. Having grown up on a farm and having worked in parts (auto and HD) for a decade I've done more than my fare share of engineer cursing in my time but I don't think I have ever damned an engineer as much as I did replacing the cylinder on my '49. Short story long, for a cylinder that crusty I'd say take the easy way out and replace it with a reman unit from your local jobber or even Rock.
I likely will...but, part of me wants to rebuild it...just because... Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wheels blasted. Will shoot primer tonight. Even kept the "Fomoco" stamp on there! Oh and also...I scored a running 200 motor for $50!!!! (From a friend) I just gotta go pull it! Master cylinder has some pitting in the cylinder...so I'll just be buying one... Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd get another MC, the inside bore has to be perfect, if its pitted you won't make pressure. I believe when they make then they force a ball bearing thru there to create that perfect bore. Be the time to upgrade to a dual MC and split the circuits.
You're going to want to eventually change the rear end. Those 7" rears were weak, even behind the 144, so if you swap in a 200 you might eventually have trouble. There's a kit to upgrade the brakes. I converted mine to disk brakes and a newer dual chamber master. Look into D&D brakes or look at VintageVans or OldEconolines forums for more details. Ask around about flipping the axle. A friend of mine installed a lowered axle and it handled horribly after that. I'm sure there's something you can do to address that, but it's not a simple lowering job. I'm pretty sure that the 144/170/200 are interchangeable. The Econoline did not come with a 200, but it should fit. If you want to go bigger, you'll need a crossmember from a 65-67 with a 240 (or modify one with a 170). The 61-64 trucks had very different engine supports.
I'm probably eventually going to go with a 9" rear end. I've looked into the brakes and will definitely be doing the conversion in the future! The front axle looks as though I have clearance if I cut down the bump stops and change the steering arms up a bit...should be pretty simple fab work. Yes, the 200 is the same block as the 144 from what I understand. I want to add a crossmember anyways just for strength as the existing mounts seem weak. I'm not going to be "hot rodding" this truck. Just want a cruiser for now, so I should be ok for a bit. Just wanna make sure it's safe, reliable...and looks cool...lol Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I posted this on another discussion http://www.moderndriveline.com/Tech...ne_6_Cylinder_Bell_Housing_Identification.htm and stay away from the load-o-matic distributors If you go with a 250 it is taller length and width are pretty much the same.
Thank you for this. I have read about the dual pattern motors. I hope this one is. If not I'll have to just make whatever changes I need to make transmission wise...this guy I'm getting the motor from has a ton of parts! Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
YES "sunbeam" posted that on my thread about a falcon motor swap and it set me straight. It looks like we both will need a '67 or older 200 motor.
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