After all the cutting on the stock crossmember there's really not that much strength left. Time for some re engineering. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There's just way to much going on that can be consolidated into one clean k member/ crossmember , not sure how I'm going to tackle it but it won't be 3separate pieces like it is now. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Spent most of the day removing all of the old crossmember, k member , trans mount junk that was boogered up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We will be losing the late model rear bones and going with the 36 style using front bones from a 40 welded to the axle mount. Since this is a spring over I will shave the spring hangers off the ends as well as the rear end Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Frame is all cleaned out so new x member can be made. Plans are for a single point to attach the rear bones and locate the trans. Next up is x member. Trans mount , rear bones fab and brackets. Stay tuned Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got some of the center member done All of this will be drilled for lightening holes and the rails will be boxed with matching plates
Plans are for a lower plate that ties the rear wishbones to the same mount as the transmission and another plate on top
My dad has been busy working on the body ,he got the number templates made and sprayed some flat rustoleum on it after sanding and a coat of primer. Jury is still out on whether to chop or not. If we do chop it it will be heavy around 6". My son would have wanted it chopped so I'm leaning towards that. He was very much into aggressive ,hotrods that performed good and looked the part. And I feel the same. Not a hotrod if it isn't fast ,and a little scary. I know he's watching so the pressures on .
are plans for a chop still on the table? i used to chop an A coupe or tudor as entertainment for our club's yearly rod run, but not for 10 years, no pix, but sharing my method in case someone is interested... i cut the A and B pillars, quarter window and rear window openings flush for later butt welding, but i drop my cut line down so it bisects the chop amount to be removed from the remaining SKINS, leaving what becomes upper and lower flanges... the tops of '30 -'31 coupe and tudor rooves are wider, i let the roof section slide over the body panels... i then tack the overlapped edges when all is aligned... i then split the overlapped panels with a metal cutting blade in a sabre saw...[where glasses] i then cut a 6" to 8" vertical tapered slot in each rear corner...grind the tack welds and toss the leftover strips... i then fit and butt weld the roof to body seams... cuts need not be perfect as the saw cuts both panels at the same time... leaves a thickness of the blade gap to be welded and bondoed... i tack the door's inner structure [glass surface] then split the door posts and quarters from the start of the upper curve, down to the lower curve... i spread the upper and crush the lower... this keeps the glass surface flat, then i fit the SKINS ... must be done in 8 places... if not a healthy [no upper hinge] 5" chop, the above needs to be done to the w/s posts... and then there was the... wood... ?
My buddy is making my dad a gas tank for Xmas Here it is in the middle of being made. It will be about 16 gallons when done. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Got one of the wishbone mounts made , disregard the fasteners and the tacked joint from the bone to the perch. I quickly tacked this together to get a feel for the placement and length. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Finally got around to working on this. I shaved the rear spring hangers off since I'm not using them. I tried to blend them in as best I could.I also took the hubs and drums off everything looks pretty good. I welded the bungs in the rear bones and polished the welds .I still need to make the other bracket and weld the ends to the bones. Getting there but slowly , hopefully I can squeeze some time in tomorrow.
Got the root pass done on the bones. Shaved the crappy shock mounts off the PO had on there .cut the spring mounts off the ends. I might cut them further up.bones are pretty long
Slow progress on the rear end. I got most of the work done on the rear bones. I didn't want to run a torque arm. I built these using front 40 ford bones welded to 36 rear peices. Then added the Dom 7/8 tubing to them to reinforce along with a gusset. The axle will break before these give us any trouble. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Been awhile since I’ve updated this thread . But we built a house and moved since the start. Life gets in the way. But here are a few progress pics of the build. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Well like everything else on this car the steering box needed a complete rebuild. Opted to go with the aftermarket steering column and modified the drop to accept a fuel gauge because running out of fuel sucks. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When we decided to go with the 283 over the flatty we were pleased to find out the hurst engine mount allowed the Chevy to go right where the flathead was. But because of the stock model A frame and the fact we didn’t want to move the crossmember around , I had to recess the firewall. Also had to make a trans tunnel and toe board. This allowed us to use an original A hood and sides with the 32 grille shell Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Some pics of the car rolled outside to get an idea of how she sits. Pretty pleased but the exhaust will go for a tighter set up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It is an original f1 box I rebuilt connected to an Ididit aftermarket column. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just wondering @sling392shot - how much meat was left on the original F1 steering shaft when you adapted the Ididit universal to the shaft? I looked into a double-D adapter, and there didn't look to be much in the way of the original shaft left to use - I may be wrong.