I am looking to re-paint my 3 vicky. It was painted with acrylic enamel previously. Would it be better to use the enamel on bc/cc. Which would give it a better appearance? What surface prep would I need to do?
post pics & more details - when was it last painted? do you have the original paint cans/labels from last paint job? was it painted by you? are you going to paint it this time? do you know if there was there any body work/bondo done the last time?
Enamel is forgiving. Lacquer over enamel is a no-go but hardly anyone uses it any more. Single stage urethane is another option. I learned a lot by just cruising PPGs website looking at the job sheets for paints and primers. It will tell you what can go over what (I.E this material can be applied over old surfaces, this primer can’t go over this primer, etc)
It was painted 4 years ago by myself. It was painted the original factory colors. I do have the paint cans and labels from the paint job. I did not do a good job and would like to do it over. There are a couple of rust spots coming thru. I am going to paint it myself. There are a few spots where I used bondo.
Just a heads up that basecoat/clearcoat will have a bright glaring shine that can make chrome that is not in the best of shape look bad. One of my reasons for favoring single stage paint on cars that have a lot of chrome.
I’m pretty sure you can shoot acrylic enamel over over clean sanded acrylic enamel without issue since it’s been 4 years and fully cured, but- Seeing that you have rust coming through gives me concern about your prep/materials prior to paint where it may necessitate stripping to bare metal and starting over. What did you use for primer etc? Peel back the onion for us...
That's a nice car. I can't wait for you to peel the onion back. Those cars were notorious for rusting along the bottom.
I have the sorta of the same thing on a 47 ford. Mine is getting tiny bumps all over. The paint job is a base coat clear coat done back around the early to mid nineties. I had posted on another thread It was painted last in the late eighties but I found out it was later, anyway I am pretty sure I know the reason for my problem . I have a bit of history to tell , I helped restore this car back in the mid seventies , after sand blasting, body work (which was minimal) we did 24 coats of lacquer ( sanded every 4 coats) hand rubbed . Later when Dad had it redone in base coat/ clear coat the guy sanded the car and reshot . Not sure what primer / sealer he used but my guess it all goes back to the original resto ( back in the seventies) where after the sand blasting it was primed with the ole red oxide primer which does not seal worth a crap and more than likely the metal took on some rust sitting in shop for many months. The reason I think this is this same guy up until last year still uses that ole red oxide primer. I have seen 3 paint jobs done by him that all had the same problem. I could be wrong but I think it should have been sealed with an epoxy or urethane primer . I did several base coat /clear coat, single stage jobs in the past ( been a while) and I didnt see this problem . I alway used a good primer sealer that was compatible with the top coat. This guy whom was excellent on all other things such as body work and so forth was really slow, so the cars sat around in a a high humidity shop for sometimes a couple years in primer. So if I were you I would make sure it is not going to happen to you . Just a suggestion , you might want to take it down to metal in a few places and see what is under there. I am going to probably have the 47 dustless blasted, and I will prime with an epoxy or urethane and do body work in a timely manner and let someone else shoot the paint being I dont have a booth any more but can make a decent area to do priming . At least that is my plan as of right now. Like I said it had been a while for me as far as painting goes so some of my terminology might be off and I am thinking there might be some different techniques these days I am not aware of .
The advice above makes lots of sense. Ten years ago I repainted using the same brand acrylic enamel with hardener over the same acrylic enamel with hardener that I sprayed 20 years before. It was Martin Senor 8800 Black Acrylic enamel sold by NAPA. However all defects in the old paint and surface metal must be remedied first. If not they will reappear later on. Best thing would be to ask the manufacturer of the original paint you used 4 years ago to make sure the new paint is compatible with the old. Also, there might be some newer processes or product improvements that the manufacturer can recommend like using epoxy primer and a seal coat, etc. I am not a pro painter so others may have better info. Be sure to wear a respirator and also cover your eyes as the chemicals in the paint can cause eye damage that is not readily apparent but emerges later. By the way, if anyone knows where I can buy some MS 8800 acrylic enamel please let me know via "Conversation".
I’m sure some paint pros will chime in with advice on this. But in the meantime, I’ll suggest taking a look at Eastwood. I don’t hear much about them on the HAMB but I like their paint products. Also like the fact that everything is compatible from body putty, primer, cleaner and paint. They also offer free online videos geared to the do-it-yourself guy showing how to use each. Advice on sandpaper grits for each stage of body work and paint. Benefits of one stage or base and clear. Why epoxy primer. Block sanding, body work, on and on. Information I wish I had access to years ago.
Surface prep depends on condition of existing paint If it is not pealing or full of chips you could sand and repaint If you have some waves or straightness issues you could block the existing paint then spot prime as needed. Single stage or bc/cc depends on what you like. Some here don’t like the look of clear. I don’t spray any single stage metallic colors cause to me they lack depth. The best foundation for new paint is old paint that is in good shape.
Wow , 63 your post prompted me to search for the guy I sold mine to.I found him and talked to him. He has had it for 8 years and done nothing. Think Ill hit him up to try and buy back.
Yeah one old man thi ks bc/ cc looks fake . I like it cut and buffed. Gotta say I always loked a hand rubber lacquer job after I finishied .
Darin Younce gave good advice. Here are my thoughts. It’s a lot of work but the only way to know what you have is to strip to the bare substrate and whether blasted (preferred) or mechanical. Then bodywork, epoxy, urethane prime, and paint with base/clear. That being said if that amount of work seems daunting you could repaint with base/clear over the existing paint. Just be prepared to be disappointed when old flaws return.
Bondo slinger is right you have to take a serious appraisal of the condition of the cars current paint surface ? If it really needs to be completely taken down to bare metal then that is your only route. Or maybe you can get away with just fixing the trouble spots and a respray of the rest of the car . I find with all projects you have to take a honest appraisal of your ability and how much free time/money you have to see it through. I just repainted my 37 Chevy sedan this winter and with breaking it all down (fenders ,rad support off ,glass out etc) ,bodywork (without taking it down to bare metal) complete repaint and putting it all back together — 6 months of all my free time . This includes the body shop I work at being closed for 10 days at Christmas which I towed the car and pieces to and worked 10 hour days for 10 days just to get it sprayed. I could have taken it all down to bare metal but how long would that take and could I realistically see that through? Maybe you have more free time to dedicate to a project like this? Life is always about choices and compromise
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