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Customs Compound curves

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pats55, May 4, 2019.

  1. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I've been working on Avanti's 30 years. In that time I have screwed up every Fiberglass hood I've touched because it curves in 2 different directions. Does anybody have some techniques to share?
     
    Last edited: May 4, 2019
  2. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    How, exactly, are you ‘screwing them up”?
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  3. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,915

    BJR
    Member

    Are you block sanding them flat?
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  4. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,056

    19Fordy
    Member


  5. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Working on something for 30 years and not learning :confused:
    I think it’s time to hang up the tools and take up something more suited to you. :D
     
    49ratfink, lothiandon1940 and da34guy like this.
  6. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Yes I wind up with a flat spot
     
  7. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    With comments like that I'll go somewhere else for help thanks anyway
     
    chop job, loudbang and 51504bat like this.
  8. Wrap yer sand paper over a round dowel.
     
    loudbang and lothiandon1940 like this.
  9. Some pics would help. If you are referring to a reverse curve those can be tricky. I use a round or curved block. A flat one can cut lines in it if not careful.
    Try not to sand in straight lines.
    Use a guide coat
     
  10. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,215

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Depends on the curve, concave or convex. Concave, use a curved block. A long one on large areas. Convex, I usually use flat blocks, but it's tricky unless you're experienced. You might try one of those long blocks that you can bend to follow the shape you're after. I have a 'regular' type long board with plastic, instead of aluminum in the middle. Also have one of those that you can remove long steel rods to make it more flexible. Use a guide coat and be careful.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    My point is that you probably should have learned a lot sooner than this.
    Usually when you screw something up then the next time it gets better.
    Or you try to get help and learn.
    30 years :D Slow learner :confused: :D

    You know what they say about doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results :D
     
    49ratfink likes this.
  12. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,334

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Use a guide cote on all block sanding not just primer, filler and fiberglass work also.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,056

    19Fordy
    Member

    Use various diameter size PVC pipe pieces.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,088

    squirrel
    Member

    did anyone bother to look at a picture of an Avanti hood? :)
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  15. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Seems like a whole lot of them (30 years worth)will now have flat spots ;):D
     
    theHIGHLANDER likes this.
  16. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,661

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    From pics of the Avanti I think I see what you mean. On that shape panel you have to block sand by hand and keep the sanding block moving, do not sand the same spot. You also have to be aware of the shape and let the sanding block or board follow the contour. This is largely a matter of feel, and a light touch. It helps to sand with a long board using a diagonal motion. Do not bear down too hard and keep moving around.

    Fibreglass bodies can be tricky because when they get old the surface can get wavy and need to be block sanded straight. But in this case not too straight lol.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  17. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

  18. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    I have 2 teachers in my family and they are both idiots. So far you haven't contributed shit for help . As a former paratrooper and father I always taught my kid never surrender, don't quit trying until you get it right .I got the hood right just looking for an easier way.
     
    reagen likes this.
  19. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    You mean a flat spot in the middle of the hood where the ridge is? Lippy
     
  20. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Thank you for your help. That Avanti really looks good
     
  21. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    Thanks guys for the help
     
  22. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I think if I had a reoccurring spot I was having trouble with I would make a template off of your known good hood, lay it on the hood your working on and shine a light on the back side of the template to see if your bodywork is low or high. JMO. Lippy
     
  23. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,264

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey pats55, to some of us that's an easy hood. All of the above are right with regard to long boards and technique. My best advice? Don't overthink it. More? Imagine the direction and style that the clay modelers used on the design study. It really works. For the coves in that reverse bulge to the left, I'd use something like a 3M or even Meguire's soft black foam pad. My strokes would be diagonal and long sweeping out to the lower sides, gently rolling over the top sides. I tend to work over a square foot at a time on nearly everything and overlapping at least 25% as I advance on the panel, no matter the shape, no matter the moment (moment as in filler, primer, final wet sanding). The challenge is not to work too much pressure when it's close and and too little as you reach away. If your shoulders are burning at day's end you're probably getting it close to right, and an occasional wipe of water or wax n grease remover will keep you in check. Don't be offended, but working smarter trumps working harder every time. Did I say don't overthink it? Yeah, don't...
     
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  24. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I can't remember the name of it and I'm not in the shop but, I have a long flexible rubber?, sanding block with three steel rods in it and they are removeable one at a time. Leave all three in and it's stiff and straight. Take them out and it's bendable conforms to any shape. This thing is like two feet long or so. Really helps on weird curves. Lippy
     
    VANDENPLAS, Pats55 and theHIGHLANDER like this.
  25. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

  26. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,695

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    @Pats55 truth is sanding isn't as easy as it seems and isn't for everyone. I've worked 30 years in word working and I've seen stuff that others have destroyed by sanding incorrectly. It's hard to teach you or anyone via type words. You mentioned some teachers that were of no help. Seek out someone that can help by being beside you as you work and they watch and advise.
     
    vtx1800 likes this.
  27. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

  28. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,915

    BJR
    Member

    OMG, what did you do the the front end?
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  29. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    You are 100% right. Soft materials like wood and fiberglass it doesn't take much to screw him up my days of painting cars are almost done. Don't have the patience anymore. I want to thank the people who gave me some good advice
    I didn't like the front of the car so I took 4 gallon paint cans made the mold for the headlights and French it in. Some people love it some people hate it. I have the original headlights and the bumpers I could put it back if I wanted to.
     

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