I want to lower my 53 ford customline. I am on a tight budget and buying lowering blocks is my last option. Does anyone know any ways to do this. The rear is already over the springs so no need to flip the rear. I heard about taking a leaf out but will that make the ride loose and bouncy? Or do the shocks take care of that? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I put aerostar coils on the front of mine lowered it about 2½ inches I had 2" lowering blocks on the rear.
If he can’t afford lowering blocks Aerostar coils are out of question. When you get some cash any of the threads on lowering a shoebox ford 49-51 will for the most part carry over. Sounds like your best bet is some big chunks of downed tree in the trunk. Pulling a spring or two isn’t going to net you anything worth the effort
If anything in the front I will just cut the coils. That's what my uncle did with his 56 crown Vic and it looks real nice while holding its "stiffness" in the front. It's in the rear I'm asking about. Maybe ok just break down and spend the $50 and buy lowering blocks and u bolts from speedway. I was just wondering if there is anything I could do for free or next to nothing. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
$50 is pretty close to "next to nothing" but if you're patient and there's a swap meet coming up they can usually be found pretty cheap used. Failing that, grab some rectangular tubing and make some. As for the front, I cut a coil out of my '49 coils and while it had the look it rode like shit afterwards. I installed a set of Aerostar coils the following spring and it maintained "the perfect" motorboat stance and rode fantastic.
Ok. That make the lowering blocks outa square tubing isn't bad. I'm only 13 and tryna save as much money as possible. How lowered is ur car in the rear? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sold that car a few years back however, if memory serves, 3" front and 4" rear. '53 tudor sedan at 13...that's pretty badass dude.
13 haha I’ll be nicer then. Ok so real world advice just save the money for the pre made blocks. By the time you buy metal, have some one weld it up, figure out your locating pin and etc. buy the u bolts your probably pretty close to that $50 and waaaaaaay more time than just buying blocks. A 4 inch block is all the taller you want to go with a block and in a shoebox style car that puts it pretty damn low. Should clear the frame but you may have some drive shaft interfere with the back seat pan. @Tuck your a loooooow shoebox guy can you lay some knowledge on us? Is a 4” block going to be ok there? Also cutting coils works up front but generally makes the car ride even stiffer. Do some searching here on the best methods to cut them with out ruining the spring, and take it a half coil at a time. Aerostar coils are pretty cheap but some cut coils can get you an idea of what height you want. Then when you want to cruise with out your glasses bouncing off your head you can upgrade to the nicer coils later.
That’s probably 4 in the back and 6 in the front. Photo looks like maybe the motor was out of it? Anyhow....
13....and you are already a hoodlum! Well done! That's a sweet car you have there. How about some more pictures of it?
not a good angle but that’s a two inch block and Aerostar coils up front on my 54 ford Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
If you really want Cheep, cheep, cheep just get 6 or 8 concrete footing blocks and put them in the Trunk behind the Axle. At 13 your not driving it anyway and it will Look Kool. Also, you can still say you added Lowering blocks just don't tell anyone what kind. When asked how much answer "just enough"!
@Bowden @Tim hell yeah. Lowering blocks and cut springs are about the cheapest way to drop it. (besides the cement in the trunk ha @Pist-n-Broke ) 4" blocks will probably have a little driveshaft interference when jumping the tracks. You can combine pulling a couple of leaves and installing blocks for an even lower stance- expect some driveshaft interference with big bumps I've swapped spindles from side to side. This is a bit more involved- requiring heat and a carpenter square off the ground against the brake drum to regain the correct camber. You heat up the spindle and use a heavy bar between the frame and the spindle to pry it out. Its kinda fun knowing you don't have to buy fatman spindles if you have an oxy-fuel torch laying around with a heating tip... but you have to work for it. I've also Z'd which is the way my current 49 resides- way more involved but cool because it lifts the engine up and requires no modified suspension... stock shoeboxes ride like a dream. (plus I desired the hot rod aspect of it... motor in your face) I cut the frame at a 45-degree angle and stacked it on top... all while being anchored to a big I-beam. You can find pics in my albums of this.
Have to correct myself on my earlier post. I ran 2" blocks in the rear and my rear leafs were so sagged it worked out to about a 4" total. I had planned on ponying up in the long run for some new rear lowering springs but I ended up (stupidly) selling my tudor off.
Be very careful removing the front springs young man.. Get some help and make sure you know what you are doing.. We don't want any injuries....
Took the front coils out of a Merc when I was in my 20s. I almost saw the left one when it shot out and hit the garage wall. Almost. That was OK, it made enough noise when it hit that I had no trouble finding it, or the dent in the wall. Glad I was in front of it. Cool that you're 13 and thinking/doing this stuff. Good luck, and be careful, like scrapmetal 48 said.
Thanks man. A lot of work to get the money to get it. Got it for 2500. It had no title. What a steal huh Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes. Motor is out and being machined at ye shop I work at. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not a steal if it's a bitch to get it titled in your State. Work on getting a clean title before working on the car. Neat car. Quick internet search shows new Aerostar front coils from Carid for $43. For that price, don't mess with 30 year old wrecking yard coils or cutting your 70 year old originals. Since you work in a machine shop, see if your Boss can order you the coils at cost through the shop. You can also go the front lowering block route. Kits are about $100, but again, since you work at the shop, you may be able to make some by milling holes in some heavy tubing or aluminum solid bar stock. Use grade 8 fasteners and you're in for 2" drop cheap. Look for a set of used lowering blocks/U bolts in your local Craigslist, swap meet, etc. I recently bought a set of Bell Techs, new in the box/unused for $25. If you're truly 13, a local HAMBer may be able to hook you up with extra parts, but you'd need to add your location to your profile...
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