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Projects Prepping chassis after sandblasting

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Joseph Neri, Apr 6, 2019.

  1. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Hello everyone, I got my chassis back from sandblasting and I sanded it down to a smooth finish. I was going to use acetone to wipe it and then I was going to spray it with self etching primer, then primer it. My question to all, am I doing it the right way ? And are there any recommendations?
    Thank you
     
  2. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,476

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Etching primer should be enough, adding any additional primer will create a soft layer underneath the finish paint and allow it to chip easier
     
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  3. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Thinking (remembering!) Metal Prep...my roadster's gennie '32 rails were sandblasted by Pacific in San Jose, 1978. Metal Prep followed, then etching primer (brand new product then)
    Followed by some coats of primer, blocked with 400, 600, etc.

    Eastwood has a recommended procedure NOW, so things are as different as front wheel drive cars.
     
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  4. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Introduction ????
    Any plans to alter or modify. And what's it off/for.
     
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  5. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  6. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  7. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    The only modification I'm doing is a coilover front and rear and I'm doing some trailing arms so basically the whole suspension and cross members will be modified I'm doing a 1964 C10 half ton.
     

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  8. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,828

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    If it was truly blasted with sand that process provided all the "tooth" that primer needs to adhere.
    That is if you haven't sanded or ground the metal with finer than 180 grit and the part was degreased before blasting.
    Degreasing before blasting with any media ensures that the "air blast" doesn't spread the contamination.
    Thoroughly clean the frame with clean dry compressed air after blasting not to be touched with any foreign object, including human skin, from that point on. Forget the self etch. Use epoxy primer from a well know maker instead.
    Plan the job from start to finish to ensure primer is sprayed asap after the blasting.
     
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  9. I usually sand with 80/180grit after blasting. Why? Look at how easily what is left after blasting scuffs off.
    Etch is great but I wouldn’t use a spray can etch for something that big.
    An epoxy would work great.
    Primer causing things to chip is a myth. A sealer or primer is an important part of a refinishing system. It actually creates a bond and cushion to help prevent chipping. I never paint directly over an etching primer on large items. A couple coats of a quality epoxy will do the same thing an etch and sealer would do but in one step.
     
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  10. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,333

    oldiron 440
    Member

    Epoxy is for sandblasted metals self etch isn't.
     
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  11. Etch is fine if the sandblast has been sanded, unsanded you are correct
     
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  12. I ALWAYS sand with 80 after blasting... Just the way I was taught and continue with it never a issue..

    Then Epoxy after..
     
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  13. oldiron 440
    Joined: Dec 12, 2018
    Posts: 3,333

    oldiron 440
    Member

    I haven't been to a certification course in a few years I retired three years ago but epoxy was still the recommended primer. PPG
     
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  14. Yep, but once a blasted part has been sanded smooth again (which the OP has stated he has done) it can go either way
    I prefer the epoxy myself
     
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  15. Your lucky to get advise.... Consider that. Why not intro yourself so everyone responding know's a lil....... Knowledge here isn't a free be.
     
  16. Pats55
    Joined: Apr 29, 2013
    Posts: 554

    Pats55
    Member
    from NJ

    These are all great ideas. What I do is I put on A little metal prep , two coats of bridge primer, and I top it off With New York City Subway anti-graffiti paint.Works pretty good
     
  17. DP from PPG comes in 3 colors I use DP90 most of the time. I agree with most replies about roughing it up with 80 grit. The DP will flow and cover any leftover scratches and you can top coat later.
     
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  18. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,826

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I'm just an old bastard but I would blow it off good, spray some DP-90 on it, wait 30 minutes and paint it black with some epoxy black. , traditional look. Done. Lippy
     
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  19. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  20. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    I agree what the 80/180 and it does come off very easy I was told to do it that way by a couple of painters I'm pretty new at this so I just want to get a lot of opinions thank you very helpful
     
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  21. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  22. I always use a final prep cleaner,the etching primer. HRP
     
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  23. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,881

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I'm an old bastard too I guess as I agree with lippy above on this. ;)
     
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  24. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  25. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  26. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  27. Joseph Neri
    Joined: Apr 6, 2019
    Posts: 11

    Joseph Neri

    Thank you
     
  28. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 480

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Personally, I wouldn't be throwing any primer at it until your finished all your modifications, welding etc. You could preserve it with epiphos. At least that will keep the moisture off it. Just a quick wipe with a rag every so often. I think most of those flash-harry hotrod shops use the stuff.
     

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